Jimothy_14

On 5/5/2024 at 7:55 AM, Plastixx said:

Hopefully the bolts don't give you too much trouble. They can be a major PITA. Your car doesn't look too rusty though.

Dude did you fucking jinx me or something? the bolt for the rear control arm bushing has been heat cycled 3 times and i've put a 5 foot tube on my breaker bar and it has not budged. I've broken and tightened down literally every other part and somehow this one is the one that wants to shatter itself

My strut Bar just got in, so I installed that today. pretty easy install, but i was shocked at how low the recommended torque spec is for the strut towers. also investigated a clunking in the front end and found my control arm bushings to be shot. ordered the parts and they should get here next week.

just wrapped up my sparkplugs this evening. sparkplugs 1 &3 were al little dirtier than 2&4, but idk if that means anything. also had quite a bit of crust on them, so when i went for a test drive the idle was much more consistent.

It's definitely neat. i like that it's got all the factory amenities still

Just washed my car after getting it back, so here's some information on it. it's a 2010 legacy GT in Steel silver with a black interior. 

The car has quite a few mods from previous owners, including an aftermarket head unit with a screen, blacked out grill(now removed) and removing the 2.5 gt and legacy badges.

I personally put on an Invidia 3" catted downpipe after the old catalytic converter died, a tweaked 93 octane cobb tune, and a damper valve delete. the end goal for me is a daily drivable car with a little more power, but still an enjoyable driving experience. Next steps are probably putting on 2.5 gt badges, an exhaust and a bypass valve. 

just got it back from the transmission specialist shop, the clutch is way lighter, but not uncomfortably so. will make a post with pictures and build documentation once i wash it.

there's a cracked stud in the transmission housing, so I'm getting it towed to a transmission shop tomorrow morning

fault found. FML

I think so. the picture is the car after resting for a day. it looks and feels centered on the dimple, and seems more extended than it should

to provide a few more details, i used DOT 3 brake fluid, bled the clutch, and then attempted to start the car. Clutch pedal wouldn't go in, so i pressed the switch that tells the car it's in while in neutral. once i attempted to put it in gear, the clutch didn't engage. 

Update, got brake fluid to cycle through, but now the clutch is very tough and the car won't go into gear. Any ideas as to what's doing this?

have you tried spraying some starting fluid to see if it runs for a bit after starting? if not start there. if you have and it still dies immediately, test your coil packs, check your spark plugs then do a compression test.

Really? i would assume the N1 would be louder but the q300 would be a bit quieter just based on muffler size

I've been eyeing an Invidia q300 catback exhaust to compliment my downpipe. there are a couple available online for ~900$. does anyone have any experience with the noise level from them? 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8C8XS4Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

This is the 10mm one, fits most if not all brake lines in my legacy. Not great for breaking things loose, but a flare nut wrench or just open end 10mm can do that

They'll work, the thread pitch being the same is the main thing. I went a step further and looked for studs based on the Turbo's part number from IHI (RFH5H) and found this set on amazon for ~15$. they worked with my OEM turbo

damper is out, New master cylinder is in. ended up stripping the old master cylinder to damper line, so that got replaced in the process. waiting on my brother to come over later this week to bleed the clutch. all in all, i should have gotten that 16$ brake line ratchet thing a week before i did. attached is a picture of the new master cylinder 

what kind of supporting mods would this need?

Good luck with the amp replacement! 

50 minutes ago, Jimothy_14 said:

good decision on the new studs. There isn't a gasket between the cat and the exhaust pipe, but there is a lead gasket between the factory exhaust pipe and the second catalytic converter. I don't know if it can be re-used. part number on it is 44022AA123

correction, there isn't a donut gasket, there is a flat gasket

13 hours ago, Falcor said:

Does anyone know if I need a donut gasket along with the flat gasket that heads out back? I'm getting a new OEM turbo to cat gasket for sure. Probably getting new studs just in case as well.

good decision on the new studs. There isn't a gasket between the cat and the exhaust pipe, but there is a lead gasket between the factory exhaust pipe and the second catalytic converter. I don't know if it can be re-used. part number on it is 44022AA123

Thanks for the explanation. the only other Manual I've driven was a GMC 6500 with a diesel so I've never really noticed it, but my mom always compared the clutch and throttle feel unfavorably to others. it does sound like a good thing to do, even if it takes another afternoon to finish everything up.

9 hours ago, GTEASER said:

Nope, that's pretty much what it is. No easy way to access other than laying on your back and tiny turns of the wrench. If you can get a 2nd hand up in there, sometimes it helps to hold the line aligned with the female side of the fitting and you can spin the flare with your fingers if its already backed off a few threads.

Are you doing a clutch damper delete? I did the one on my car in addition to helping out 2 other members doing them on their cars. You do learn some tricks but nothing super helpful.

 

I'm only replacing it with a new and functional OEM master cylinder. i saw the thread you posted about the damper delete though, and i don't think i entirely understand what the damper delete entails and what benefits it has for the car. could you explain?

2 hours ago, motorbreath said:

I only have experience with the Invidia cat, which is very spendy,

https://www.invidia-exhausts.com.au/invidia-liberty-2010-down-pipe-j-pipe-with-high-fl

but keep in mind that all of these aftermarket cats have, from what I understand, a more restrictive opening in the flange compared to the stock cat. The one that I have from Invidia causes a notable noise when the wastegate is wide open, so I think that you might need a tune if you use an aftermarket one.

I could be wrong about this, hopefully people with more experience can jump in.

I used the Invidia J pipe too. It's a very tight fit, but you can feel how much quicker the turbo spools up after the tune

40 minutes ago, motorbreath said:

I assume you don't live in the rust belt, I had to scrap my turbo because it was rust-welded to the stock cat! It was probably for the best, the turbo had over 100k on it and 10 hard years of salty winters.

it spent some time in the Midwest, not sure how long. when i took it off i needed to take a Sawzall about a third of the way through the exhaust studs and saw off the cat for clearance to get the nuts off and replaced all four with new studs