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Jimothy_14

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Everything posted by Jimothy_14

  1. Jimothy_14
    Dude did you fucking jinx me or something? the bolt for the rear control arm bushing has been heat cycled 3 times and i've put a 5 foot tube on my breaker bar and it has not budged. I've broken and tightened down literally every other part and somehow this one is the one that wants to shatter itself
  2. Jimothy_14
    My strut Bar just got in, so I installed that today. pretty easy install, but i was shocked at how low the recommended torque spec is for the strut towers. also investigated a clunking in the front end and found my control arm bushings to be shot. ordered the parts and they should get here next week.
  3. Jimothy_14
    just wrapped up my sparkplugs this evening. sparkplugs 1 &3 were al little dirtier than 2&4, but idk if that means anything. also had quite a bit of crust on them, so when i went for a test drive the idle was much more consistent.
  4. Jimothy_14
    It's definitely neat. i like that it's got all the factory amenities still
  5. Jimothy_14
    Just washed my car after getting it back, so here's some information on it. it's a 2010 legacy GT in Steel silver with a black interior. The car has quite a few mods from previous owners, including an aftermarket head unit with a screen, blacked out grill(now removed) and removing the 2.5 gt and legacy badges. I personally put on an Invidia 3" catted downpipe after the old catalytic converter died, a tweaked 93 octane cobb tune, and a damper valve delete. the end goal for me is a daily drivable car with a little more power, but still an enjoyable driving experience. Next steps are probably putting on 2.5 gt badges, an exhaust and a bypass valve.
  6. Jimothy_14
    just got it back from the transmission specialist shop, the clutch is way lighter, but not uncomfortably so. will make a post with pictures and build documentation once i wash it.
  7. Jimothy_14
    there's a cracked stud in the transmission housing, so I'm getting it towed to a transmission shop tomorrow morning
  8. Jimothy_14
    fault found. FML VID_20240314_155251067.mp4
  9. Jimothy_14
    I think so. the picture is the car after resting for a day. it looks and feels centered on the dimple, and seems more extended than it should
  10. Jimothy_14
    to provide a few more details, i used DOT 3 brake fluid, bled the clutch, and then attempted to start the car. Clutch pedal wouldn't go in, so i pressed the switch that tells the car it's in while in neutral. once i attempted to put it in gear, the clutch didn't engage.
  11. Jimothy_14
    Update, got brake fluid to cycle through, but now the clutch is very tough and the car won't go into gear. Any ideas as to what's doing this?
  12. Jimothy_14
    have you tried spraying some starting fluid to see if it runs for a bit after starting? if not start there. if you have and it still dies immediately, test your coil packs, check your spark plugs then do a compression test.
  13. Jimothy_14
    Really? i would assume the N1 would be louder but the q300 would be a bit quieter just based on muffler size
  14. Jimothy_14
    I've been eyeing an Invidia q300 catback exhaust to compliment my downpipe. there are a couple available online for ~900$. does anyone have any experience with the noise level from them?
  15. Jimothy_14
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8C8XS4Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 This is the 10mm one, fits most if not all brake lines in my legacy. Not great for breaking things loose, but a flare nut wrench or just open end 10mm can do that
  16. Jimothy_14
    They'll work, the thread pitch being the same is the main thing. I went a step further and looked for studs based on the Turbo's part number from IHI (RFH5H) and found this set on amazon for ~15$. they worked with my OEM turbo
  17. Jimothy_14
    damper is out, New master cylinder is in. ended up stripping the old master cylinder to damper line, so that got replaced in the process. waiting on my brother to come over later this week to bleed the clutch. all in all, i should have gotten that 16$ brake line ratchet thing a week before i did. attached is a picture of the new master cylinder
  18. Jimothy_14
    what kind of supporting mods would this need?
  19. Jimothy_14
    Good luck with the amp replacement!
  20. Jimothy_14
    correction, there isn't a donut gasket, there is a flat gasket
  21. Jimothy_14
    good decision on the new studs. There isn't a gasket between the cat and the exhaust pipe, but there is a lead gasket between the factory exhaust pipe and the second catalytic converter. I don't know if it can be re-used. part number on it is 44022AA123
  22. Jimothy_14
    Thanks for the explanation. the only other Manual I've driven was a GMC 6500 with a diesel so I've never really noticed it, but my mom always compared the clutch and throttle feel unfavorably to others. it does sound like a good thing to do, even if it takes another afternoon to finish everything up.
  23. Jimothy_14
    I'm only replacing it with a new and functional OEM master cylinder. i saw the thread you posted about the damper delete though, and i don't think i entirely understand what the damper delete entails and what benefits it has for the car. could you explain?
  24. Jimothy_14
    I used the Invidia J pipe too. It's a very tight fit, but you can feel how much quicker the turbo spools up after the tune
  25. Jimothy_14
    it spent some time in the Midwest, not sure how long. when i took it off i needed to take a Sawzall about a third of the way through the exhaust studs and saw off the cat for clearance to get the nuts off and replaced all four with new studs
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