CDN 2.5i

They come with center caps that have the Drag logo on them. I just choose not to run them. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/product/wheels/drad38.cg.ang.jpg

Set FS in the classifieds: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/18x8-47-dark-grey-wheels-163722.html?

I'm running the 17x8 charcoal grey DR-38s on my wagon. (separate thread for them here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158605) http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2403-1.jpg

It was the fronts that have been going... basically once a year. I did the last one myself - had a couple covered under warranty but no more. Really not that hard to do so I'll do it again should another fail. Until the last one went, I thought I had the issue licked after having wrapped the headers. I definitely recommend wrapping or coating the headers to retain a bit more heat in the pipe, which should help the front O2. If you can find a good deal on coating them, go that route as I think it has more longevity. I lost my skidplate this winter so now my header wrap is exposed under the car and I don't think it will last all that long. I plan to get my headers ceramic coated next time round. The steering line can actually be moved up a bit - loosen the clamps and there's a bit of movement. I also had my headers tweaked a bit at a muffler shop so that part sat slightly lower as well.

I put dampener on the outer door skin behind the speaker. You'll need something you can adhere to the sheet metal there.

1/8” mass loaded vinyl works well...

I'm shopping wheels for my OBP wagon currently. Tired of my silver Rotas. Going darker but not black. Personally don't want gold or bronze so looking at gunmetal, charcoal, hyper black etc. Currently leaning towards hyper black for its sort of diverse appearance. Han'sGT states "A really awesome color...in direct sun they almost look chrome in the shade more gunmetal, but always with a high gloss finish."

I expect it's primarily due to the load... whats in that trailer SBT?

the Lowrider is for raised rails, like on the Outback.

My ebay gaskets eventually leaked/blew out in spots... possibly b/c header bolts backed off somewhat. Regardless, they're not that great. I highly recommend the Grimmspeed gaskets. That's what I'm using now. Better than OE too.

I'm running the full cxlighting exhaust (same as GMS). I had to have an adapter piece fabricated to mate my '05 cat pipe to the mid. The mid was too short. You could get some decent money back selling the brand new mid and Y if you wanted... The GMS midpipe isn't resonated like cxlighting and you'll likely have quite a bit of drone as a result. I had to add a second resonator to mine but the wagon suffers from drone more than the sedans. I'd also coat the cans before you install assuming you get salt in Jersey... they'll get surface rust pretty quick otherwise. Easy to do when new and off the car, less likely to get done after the fact.

They'll definitely be louder... but not obnoxiously so. More low tone. They'll sound pretty good. Easily noticeable I would think, as in right when you fire it up. But, if they don't know cars, they might not?

Been running a 2010 Yakima Holdup this fall. Great rack, easy to load/unload. Simple to install and remove from the car.

I expect the best price is still the MSIs at US$225 shipped... on the last two sets he has in stock.

Best deal on Eibach's right now will be the private labelled MSI's - Mark's got two sets left at $225 shipped here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/msi-sps-performance-spring-kit-129387p10.html

Just ordered a Yakima Holdup hitch mount bicycle rack. Will post pics, hopefully later this week.

It's Moore Sport... http://www.mooresport.com/

Interesting... sounds like Eibach made extras when they ran the MSI production?

As Town says, it will help. Ideally you find where the rattle is and deal with it directly.

Thanks for the clarification IndyBlitzen. Assumption is more black than taupe or is there another way to differentiate?

With my current setup, 10 mins is a conservative estimate. It's usu quicker. We ride from the house most days so don't need the rack most of the time. With mounts like the anklebiters that span the two crossbars, it's a two person job (because of the weight) but to re&re the single bars with the boa mounts, it's super simple and very quick.

Here's my current setup - quick on and off by myself (10 mins) so I can enjoy the better fuel economy when I don't need the rack. http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2937.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2938.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/CIMG2939.jpg My old setup with 4 anklebiter dueces: http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/n504786321_75094_170.jpg http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/vv205/andrewolive/n504786321_75095_399.jpg

Does anyone know the difference between these two? 177.....OBP.....2005 Legacy 2.5i wagon MT Unltd 49......OBP.....2005 Legacy 2.5i wagon MT Unltd Perhaps there was an error in the original conversion of data? They would look to be the same car (what mine is). But the fact they were separate entries in the list suggests otherwise.

Here's a quick clip of the cxlighting... I'll do another one later when there's less background traffic noise. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fchXhiIj9qQ]YouTube- '05 Legacy 2.5i with borla replica headers and cxlighting CBE[/ame]

How is that compared to the PZEV motors? Same or similar?