kattz

The 29A and 37A are vaporware, as in Subaru has no record of selling even one. And the one that came out of the '12 LGT in the scrapyard is a 63A. That's a 3.6L A/T cluster. The Non-USDM 71A in my vehicle doesn't exist anywhere in any parts listing.

We can find 94 sometimes at Sunoco here in the Cincinnati area. 93 octane is common here, 91 and 92 harder to find.

Well, that's good to know. I have one from a '12 in a junkyard, but the p/n is strange. It came out a '12 LGT with 6 speed and turbo.

The brand new cluster coming from Subaru is from a 2010 Legacy GT. It’s the only one that Subaru has in stock. The service manager at Kings Subaru feels pretty good that it’s gonna work. There’s a guy on eBay that will reprogram the mileage and I’m sending it out to him as well as the strange part number unit from the 2012 over in the scrap yard in Indiana. If it works, I’ll update you guys on the part number because Legacy GT instrument clusters for fifth generation are scarcer than hens teeth.

Previous owner installed 2012 STI Brembos and new rotors, so we're good there. Turbo will be next year after the trans swap. I have a lot to do, and being disabled doesn't help. 1. Clean out/rearrange the garage to put my Forester where the LGT is and move the LGT to the longer stall to give me room to work on this project. Remove a rack and throw stuff away. 2. Order and receive the Quickjack 7000's. 3. Take the STI transmission to the machine shop to measure for the new mounts. 4. Drop the old drivetrain, remove the current RCE coilovers, get the trans mounted. Measure, measure, measure everything before removal. 5. Order the new coilovers. 6. Install new drivetrain. Hopefully everything fits. Turn In Concepts said that with STI spindles and the RS180 diff, the axles should be ok from a fit perspective. They state LGT has same track as later STI. I'm not so sure about that from research. Still checking. The new instrument clusters went out to the programmer, so once they return, I'll nurse it down to the dealer and let them marry the new one to the BIU, and keep the one on the shelf for a potential spare. Ordering a custom panel from Illumasthetic; I probably misspelled that. Frankly, with no help I'm worried sick.

It's kind of a long story, but to make it short, the turbo is from a 2012 LGT in a scrapyard in Indiana with only 70K miles on it. The choice is either JMP or BNR to rework it into an improved version. Probably using something along a TD-05HF billet wheel. I honestly haven't decided. I don't want to go with something that might add more complexity or add a failure point. Keeping the current TMIC for now. I've been using Humble Rumble as a sounding board for some ideas as well as MSprank regarding tuning, fitment, and so forth. Frankly, I'm in lust for Humble Rumble's ride. The 6 speed... yeah. While shifting to 5th gear at around 3900 rpm last night, there was a bang followed by a whirring sound. Seems something broke. I only have 3 forward gears now. Sychros are wailing away now as well. I went down to Turn In Concepts in Cincy just before this happened and consulted with Subaru professionals regarding this vehicle. They know their stuff, and are patient, but they give you the truth of what's possible and what's not. Their recommendation is get the drivetrain squared away (too low) and get the car back up to a not-so-low height. Raising the car as well as changing the spindles means new STI RCE Tarmac II Clubsport's with custom longer springs, probably 10K front, 9K rears. I spent three days with RCE taking measurements, sending pics of the current install, etc. for proper fitment of the new coilovers. Myles at RCE is good people. iWire DCCD controller for the new box. Also to go will be the wheels. The wheel/tire combo comes in a a hair under 60lb. IMO, that's a little much. I want Enkei RS02RR's in 19", tires in 255-275, whatever I can get to fit. After the reworked turbo is installed, Turn-In Concepts is going to TIG weld a new bung on the intercooler, relocate the IAT sensor and set the car up for speed density tune. I'm to understand the MAF sensor goes in the round file after that. There will be a build thread. And CAD for the transmission mount once complete. I also need to do some body work.

Turbo arrived today to be sent out for modification. Also on the way is a 2017 WRX STI 6 speed transmission, RS 180 rear end, spindles, and all the goodies to go with it. Should make for an interesting project. Next item will be new coilovers.

A rag wrench is what us maintainers in Tactical Air Command (USAF, later Air Combat Command) refer to as your hand with a cleaning instrument, usually a rag soaked in JP-4 or JP-5, to wipe town the aircraft surface needing to be cleaned. Old habits die hard! Image of 9th Air Force Viper Demo Team (East) circa 1994. I am 4th from right, my F-16CG, tail # 90-0738 "Thor's Hammer" is behind me on right. Krystal on left and Lana on right are two of the finest maintainers I've ever had the pleasure of working with. 960×574 jpg 55 kB

It's a good investment, I agree. Tie rod ends are likely OK on street roads that are well maintained. If the roads are crap, perhaps they may be bad. They are not expensive.

I know it's crazy for me to say, being new here and all, but this seems like a lot to replace at 100K miles. Unless you're carrying concrete in the trunk and constantly driving it like you stole it, you shouldn't be seeing the wear you're describing based on my personal experience (Forester, Tribeca, OBS).

This has been a great read! Question - maybe I missed it, but why not use the Spec B rear axles? Sorry if I missed it.

This is true. But I now have everything else converted except the cluster. These part numbers do not even show up in Europe, UK, Australia, or JDM.

I can get one out of a salvage yard for a 2010, and one for a 2011 new. I'm going to ask Subaru if they will work.

TLDR: Anyone else change their cluster and have a problem finding one? I want to change my instrument cluster to Imperial from Metric. The main reason is that on 5 different occasions people at the BMV, title office, US Customs, and the tire shop have all recorded the km on the odometer as miles. I've had to have them go back and change it at every turn. Eventually the vehicle will get flagged by both CARFAX and Ohio as having a tampered odometer if I miss catching one little slipup. I received a p/n for a new cluster for my 4/2012 GT VIN of 85021AJ37A. It shows as discontinued, and was only in use from 2010/02 to 2011/06. It's also non-existent. Not even in the auto recylcler's database or on eBay. There is a second number usable, 85021AJ29A, and it is also vaporware. I finally found ONE in the entire nation from a 2012 built in 11/2011 with a p/n of 85003AJ63A out of VIN 4S3BMFL62C1018629, which I confirmed is a 2012 LGT 6MT. However, that p/n is also vaporware. Can't find it anywhere. I removed the metric cluster today and it has a p/n of 85003AJ71A. It's a non-indexable part number as well. Doesn't exist. I'm stumped. Anyone else have any issues like this that they can share? Does any 2012 Legacy cluster fit? This has gotten to the point of driving me slightly insane.

Really sweet ride. How hard was it to fit the 285's under the vehicle without rubbing?

I know that v14 is for the Denso units. Just wondering.

My '03 OBS had 194K on it when I traded it in on my '07 B9 Tribeca. Still have the Tribeca today, a flawless 130K miles on it. My '06 LL Bean Forester that was built and purchased in '05 has over 270K miles on it and I beat the crap out of it daily. It needed head gaskets and a timing belt/water pump/front crank seal at 140K - so what? Cars require maintenance. My nephew has an Impreza and a Forester, and both are trashed because he lives on a 25 mile gravel road and he drives it like he stole it, runs the oil 12K miles in New Mexico where he lives, and couldn't change a spark plug if his life depended on it. BTW, SOA just changed the failed CVT in the Forester 40K miles out of warranty. Try to get that out of Toyota or Honda, or the Big 3. I had a '94 Audi 90S, great car, non-Quattro - until it overheated due to a bad thermostat and warped both heads. My '02 S4 Biturbo was junk 6 mos after purchase and went back to Audi forever. My wife's '98 A6 went back at the same time because it needed a $4K timing belt replacement and wasn't worth it. We went to Subaru and never looked back. I am only dissatisfied with today's models because of the CVT and the built-in ICE that will be obsolete in four years. Our Subie Stable:

What is the latest version that anyone has for dvd? Version 11 or 12? On the understand that even 14 will work if it can be formatted correctly for The Late Model Gen 5 Legacy and Beyond Will donate. Kev

I'm working a fix to the STI/WRX seats that will install a 6" pigtail harness adapting the 2015-2017 seat occupancy detector to the Legacy. It's fairly straightforward. I will try it in my vehicle if I change the seats and then post the fix here if it works.

That's a sweet setup.

HEY! We have something in common! I'm 58, my daughter just turned 16, and I do flight sims. DCS 'coz of my F-16 systems experience. Sold my full-size 737-700 sim two years ago.

Looking at the tune from the dyno shop, it's at slightly (very slightly) under 300whp. She's not gonna be a race car. I'd like to target 350-375whp if possible. Without a LOT of work, it might not get there. I'd like to toss the 6MT for the STI box, but that's a whole 'nother headache. Maybe I should just drive it. But at my age, this is my last fast car.

I kinda stopped going down this path because the lights going off longer only happens AFTER the VDC and brake warning lights come on. If not on, you hear no relay action at all under the dash and the brake light response is instantaneous. I didn't consider changing the relay. Thanks for that tidbit.

The original owner had one and sold it. I'm wondering if the Grimmspeed 2015 WRX pipe would work. I've been in contact with Redline Tuning here in Ohio regarding the HP questions.

Here are the seat power connections - If it's green, it should match. If no comments, not connectors to worry about. Occupancy detection requires a jumper harness. Seeing about parts. Might have to visit the local scrapyard.