nebula72

Hello again. Well in our rebuild process we are up to putting the intake together and getting ready to mount it to the block. During this process I noticed when putting the injectors in the tgvs, they didn't seem to fit very tight in the tgv part. They seem to be very easy to rotate and in my opinion feel a little flimsy even with the bolts tightened. If I didn't hold the injectors in place while tightening the bolts they would just fall out of the tgvs . Not sure this is normal or if there's something wrong here. See video below. As always all help is very appreciated 20240412_180945.mp4

Hi, After a turbo bearing to engine failure on our 2009 LGT, we are slowly getting our Type RA engine assembled for installation. During the process we we had our heads reconditioned by HeadGames and we purchased a rebuilt VF52 from a forum member. Intake and TGVs were all deep cleaned by a professional. As far as the intercooler goes, the original had a bunch of bearing juice go through it so I am not re using it. I originally wanted to upgrade it but after seeing the price of the Grimspeed I decided that OEM is my only choice (about $350 new). While searching I saw some ebay units for cheap but Im not sure if I should even try them as I did read about some fitment issues on older posts but I am not sure if anything has changed since then. I would like to keep the budget under $500 so any advise would be appreciated. Link to one example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/166479867937 Thanks Tom

Not yet. Was wondering if there was something I could use other than buying a spacer tool

Just finished putting the timing belt on along with all the pulleys and cam sprockets. Was wondering if someone could take a look at the attached photos to let me know if I did this right before I pull the pin. One thing to note it appears that there's an extra line in the belt on the left side intake. I think this was an error during Manufacturing. Any help would be most appreciated. Also let me know if I need to submit any more pictures to get a more definitive answer. Thanks so much again

I ended up using foaming engine degreaser and plan to spray the hell out of it and let it sit for a few days to dry

Hi All I'm putting together my new engine post turbo failure and I was wondering the best way to clean out the stock black plastic intake that I would like to reuse. Since the turbo let go and sent bearing dust throughout the old engine, I'm trying to figure out how to effectively clean out the intake. All suggestions are appreciated. Tom

I didnt really think bout it but you may be right as the plug may have some pre applied thread product on it already. I guess ill see what it looks like when I get it.

Hello I'm getting ready to add an oil pressure gauge to my 09 LGT and the sensor is extremely big so I'm going to put it in the back of the motor by pulling out the rear oil Galley plug and adding an adapter for the sensor Is it okay to use three Bond on the threads or should I use something else to seal the threads?

That looks correct. Thanks so much for your help!!!

2009 Legacy GT

Hello all. I'm in the middle of a build and I'm trying to identify these two hoses that are coming off the top of the old block. One appears to be coolant and the other may be vacuum or emissions? Wanted to get the OEM numbers to replace them. Thank you. Tom

Hello All So we are putting together the Type RA motor for the 09 LGT and we are getting ready for hoses. Was wondering what everyone's opinion was on OEM vs aftermarket (rubber or silicone) hoses and clamps. Any input is appreciated. Thanks

Thanks so much!!

Just sent him a PM. If you can please send me his email in case he does not check his messages here often. Thanks

I just spoke with the tuner and will be scrapping the FP turbo as I don't want to dump more money into the fuel system at this time. As per his recommendation we will either go stock or a with a 52. Will go with the 10mm oil pump as the tuner basically said we can use either one (and I already ordered the 10mm). As for the head gaskets as per his direction, I'm going to have headgames do a little combustion chamber work when they clean out my heads which will allow me to run OEM gaskets. At this point I just want to get the car back up and running as soon as possible. Next step is to find a good place to get a turbo. Will prob make another post regarding new/rebuilt turbos and recommendations on where to buy. Thanks so much for all of your input.

Thanks for the link... If I decide to change my mind I will go ahead and get that one... Still trying to figure out if I should go with the 11mm pump or stick with a 10mm.

I'm looking at skipping the oil heat exchanger because I will need to buy a new one as my current one is filled with metal turbo bearing material and they are pretty much impossible to clean. When seeing how much these things cost I remembered reading that some choose to delete the item for more clearance and better pressure. Some claim that the oil actually runs cooler at running temperature and the piece actually functions as more a heater for startup. I figured that maybe I can save a few hundred dollars while making it better.

Hi All I'm getting ready to order parts for my build. I'm going with a Type RA short block using the stock d25 heads, 1.1mm head gaskets and will be running an FP Blue turbo. I decided to do the oil heater/cooler delete and I read that the delete can increase oil pressure.. If that is the case, should I just stick with the 10mm stock LGT oil pump or should I still go with the 11mm. Thanks Tom

Been looking for a wrecked one but the only ones popping up within driving distance are some other LGTs with 140K plus miles. I almost bought one but decided not to as the turbo/motor let go on our car at only 108K. I also went down the JDM rabbit hole and finally decided to stay screw it and get a new block..

Hello All, After months or procrastinating, my son and I finally decided to get a Type RA block to replace my sons blown EJ255. We will be using his existing heads (to be redone by Headgames headworks), replacing the blown turbo with an FP Blue and having a tuner adjust for the added compression. After getting some real high prices at local dealers we decided look at online source. My question is who in your opinion is the best place to get it from.. Are there any online places that sell a package with gaskets/hoses etc? All input is appreciated. Thanks

Members 10 Posted 2 minutes ago Hello all, So after a turbo failure destroyed my sons engine (2009 LGT), we decided to keep the car, pull the engine and try to save money for a new short block as I dont want a take a chance on swapping a used engine. A friend of a coworker has a brand new still in box Subaru STI short block Part # 10103AC030 that he is looking to sell but when I look it up the application is for 2004 -2007. 1. Will this block work with my 2009 parts (heads/intake/etc)? 2 Do I need to make any modifications to make this work (delete air pump)? 3 Are there any other issues that I need to worry about or should I just spend more on the OEM replacement short block? Please pardon my ignorance as I am still learning and don't want to make a big dollar mistake by buying this block. Thanks in advance.

Hello all, It looks like my engine in my sons 09 LGT may be toast after a turbo failure (found metal flakes in the oil pan). In my area there are a couple of wrecked LGTs but one is an 05 and the other is an 07 with an automatic. I read that there were differences in the turbos but is there anything else I need to be be concerned about regarding the older gen 4s? Also if i got an AT motor, can i simply use my existing flywheel for a direct fit to my 09 manual? Would my ecu plug directly in or would I need to use electronics from the donor car? Sorry for my ignorance as I am and old school carburetor muscle car guy. Thanks for your help!! Tom

Where did you end up getting the fork and flywheel?

Will do what you suggested this weekend.. Also going to see if i can run a video scope down the fork area to see if any cracks/failures are visible. Thanks for the advice!! Ill update the thread this weekend.

The issue we are having is that the car is that its hard to go into gear when idling. I noticed the clutch will not start to disengage unless you are completely on the floor and pedal feels real weird (mushy and dead). We bled out the system and it seemed to help for about 20 miles but it came back again.. I'm thinking its either the hydraulic system or possibly the clutch fork is bent/cracked. Luckily I have a lift in my garage so I have room to work. I'm just not familiar with AWD systems as the extent of my clutch jobs are limited to old school American Muscle Cars.