nebula72

I'm thinking that will be my plan if I get jammed up with the install. Maybe the gaskets will be ok to reuse? I'm looking at possibly going with either the perrin or cobb V2 turbo inlet for longevity. I'm trying to find out which is the least painful to install.

So we just dropped iour freshly built engine in the 2009 LGT and upon startup we had some leaks to address. While fixing these items I noticed the Turbo inlet hose had a tear near the turbo. I'm kicking myself for not replacing it during the build as I replaced every other hose. So my question is this. Can this be done without taking out the intake manifold? Also are there any aftermarket solutions that would be easier to install? From older posts it seems OEM is the quickest and easiest but I didn't know if there are any newer and more recent aftermarket revisions that change this. Thanks Tom

Tried a bunch of stuff and couldn't get it to build pressure so I decided to say screw it and fire it up with the fuel hooked up. Car fired up and within 2 seconds oil pressure was up. I guess these boxers do things differently. Thanks to all for your help this thing is actually running now. Just have to put in the gasket / Crush Washer for the power steering pump line as I forgot to do that and fluid started leaking all over the place:-)

Well after a year of Blood Sweat and Tears we are getting ready to start this thing for the first time. I hooked up a mechanical gauge and crank the motor to see if it would build up any pressure but it's not reading anything. I disconnected the oil pressure gauge and no oil is coming out of the line. Is this normal behavior.? Does the motor need to be turning at a really good clip to build up pressure? Any help would be appreciated 20240507_203604.mp4

Looks like after spinning that rear tire 20 times, the shaft turned just over 41 times so according to the formula, the grear ratio is 4.1 which matches the NA forester transmission. Ill shop around for a wrx 6 speed. If I dont find a killer deal I might just run this NA trans until it breaks as I picked up the correct fork and all fits now. Thanks so much on helping me solve this mystery.

From the quick search I did, the 2015 Wrx has a 4.11 final ratio? If I find that my rear diff is stock I will still have the same problem that I have with this forester trans correct?

What year wrx transmissions should I be looking for?

I cant afford the STi/Spec B route but the WRX/2010 LGT swap sounds real interesting (if my rear is mismatched to this forester trans). It seems the 2009 LGT transmissions on not very available. I found one in ohio for around 1100$ Ill try to find that write up. If you have any information on places to get adapters please let me know. Thanks!!!

Over last night I was thinking. Before the engine blew up my son complained that at times it was hard to put the car in 1st gear but at the same time his clutch was a little mushy so we replaced the the slave cylinder. I think that improved it but I do remember it still being a little tough at times to put in first afterwards. Also I noticed when cruising on the highway, there was some noise that could be interpreted as gear related. Nothing crazy loud. I just thought that may have been the characteristics of the drivetrain. We didnt have the car on the road for a year. It has been a year since the motor blew up. We bought it around a year and a half ago and had the car driving for about 6 months before the motor blew up I dont know if having the mismatch gears would take a while to fail or if it would blow up the trans quickly. My mind is wandering all over the place now .. Going to try to get out of work early enough to check the gearing. If I find a mismatch, I would assume that the trans would be the weakest link and therefore should be the first to be changed. Looking at some used parts websites for prices on a used LGT trans. Maybe someone on this site has one... What year LGT trans can I swap in? Will 07 and 08 work if is still have the original 390 rear? Being the car is apart I just want to get it right. I am already knee deep in this project with a brand new type ra block/headwork/new turbo gauges etc. Ill have some more info tonight. Thanks again. Tom

This is my sons first car.. Tried to talk him into a new edge mustang but he really wanted this LGT. I was ok with it as we spend a lot of time in the mountains in western NC and having the AWD would be great. The car looked great.. everything seemed to be perfect.. well a year later here we are. We are making memories together on this rebuild but damn these unknown curveballs are getting exhausting. I will PM you regarding the diff... Hopefully Ill know more tomorrow when I get home from work. Thanks so much!!

Yep.. the fork I have looks exactly like the forester. Now I need to find out if whoever put this crap in did it right by putting a rear diff in... I suspect not. Now I need to decide if i should put in a new rear diff or a transmission... This car is killing me. Thanks so much for all of your help.. This is a great community.

Thanks... Will try that tomorrow to see whats up.. Ok well now another question. The motor is still out... If I have a mismatch, is it better (easier/cheaper/etc) to get a LGT transmission or a rear diff? Thanks again

Sorry yes its 15804. Can you tell me if there is a way to see if the rear diff was already replaced? Is there a tag somewhere?

A quick search shows that TY755VC7AA is a non turbo transmission so Im hoping replacing the fork will help me but now I feel like I am in a whole new world of crap. Is is ok to run this TY755VC7AA in the LGT... We only had the car for a few months before the turbo blew the motor and it seemed to ride ok.. Just concerned about the different gear ratios between turbo and non turbo cars.. do the differentials need to be swapped when this happens? Sorry for my ignorance on this.. I come from an old school carb V8 world so this stuff it pretty overwhelming..

While looking through the car I see some stuff (markings and numbers I don't recognize) that looks suspicious. Maybe a transmission was swapped in?

I original for reference 20240428_175150.mp4

It slides right over the fork. There's now way to secure it.. it didn't come with any other hardware and I don't really see a way how I could use the original OEM clip 20240428_174355.mp4

Hi. Trying to get our newly built Type RA engine installed. I bought an exedy 1504 clutch. It seems to fit but the throw out bell ring looks nothing like the oem. The OEM came with some sort of clip and seem to stay on the fork whereas this new one looks totally different. Did I get the wrong clutch package? Any help would be most appreciated as I am in my garage right now at a standstill. Thanks so much

Hello all. During our rebuild, I decided to run the IAG oil lines as I was worried that there could be bearing bits in my original hard lines from when we blew up.. 2 questions. 1 was this a good idea? 2 Does it look right? It seems like there is a lot of slack. Especially from the tee to the turbo. Thanks Tom

So thanks to this forum we are getting close to dropping the motor into the LGT. While waiting for the clutch parts to arrive I was wondering if it would be a good idea to put oil in it and crank the engine by hand without the plugs installed to get some oil flowing and test for any pressure. If I did this do you think that my mechanical pressure gauge would see any pressure at all? Even seeing the slightest flow of oil coming out of the gallery oil pressure line feed would give me some peace of mind. After all the time and money spent on this project I want to do as much as I can to avoid messing this up. All advise is appreciated Thanks for all of your help. Tom

There was no Teflon tape because I was just mocking it up with the OEM oil pressure sensor. I found an npt style sensor at AutoZone and I think I'm going to try it this is what it looks like

While rebuilding our type ra block we decided to run an oil pressure gauge instead of relying on an idiot light so I bought the gauge which required us to swap out the oil gallery adapter to npt. I ended up getting a relocation kit due to space constraints and I added a splitter because it would be nice to still have the idiot light hooked up but now we have an issue where the splitter is npt and the OEM sensor is bsp which doest not provide a fit. I think running adapters back down to bsp would cause some space constraints.. Could I just buy a generic npt sized sensor and run that? I attached a picture to show what I got going on

Once installed they do feel more snug but I was ust concerned about how different they look and how Loosely they fit on the injector when I first put it on. I had to literally pry the old one off with a screwdriver and a pick where the new ones just fell in with a gap around the nozzle. if I were to turn the injector upside down the new one would fall out with ease. However once everything was installed it did feel like it was fairly snug.

Hi In the middle of a rebuild and noticed that the injectors were kind of flopping around in the tgv's so after posting here I went and bought new injector seals from a Subaru dealership. They look pretty different than what was originally on there. Taking the original seal off took some amount of effort as it was on there pretty good where the new seal would just go on and come off very easily it could almost fall off if I shook it . Another weird thing it seems that the original injector seals have a flange that makes it fit nicely inside of the new seals so I'm wondering if this was a two-piece setup. Everything that I see in the manual shows just one rubber piece between the injector and the tgv . I called the dealership and sent them pictures and they are stumped as according to them there is only one seal between the actual injector and the tgv. They also assured me that I have the right part number for my car. I'm also wondering if perhaps the seals change shape as the car runs . I'm pretty confused on this any help would be appreciated Please see pics below to show the differences

Hi My son and I have been spending the past year rebuilding his Legacy GT after a turbo failure. We ended up getting a Type R A short block while using his original heads after getting them cleaned by head games. We kept the stock injectors but upgraded the turbo to a vf52. Our tuner recommended that we run either an exedy stage 1 or X clutch stage 1 along with the WRX flywheel. Was wondering if anybody out here had a good place to get this stuff at a good price. I see prices all over the place and figured to ask some folks with some real experience. Thanks so much. Tom