Jeremie

Correct. Oil and coolant both looked ok and not contaminated. I have not done anything with the grounds on the car as of yet - but just got all the supplies together to go thru and re-do all the grounds. Spark plugs were replaced maybe 200 miles ago. I should have, but did not pull out the #2 plug last night when I was swapping coils. I'll look into swapping injectors next. Thank you!

Swapped coils on cyl 2 & 4, mis fire stayed at cylinder 2. Not the coils. With the engine running - aren’t you able to put a screwdriver on top of the fuel injector and other end against your ear and be able to hear a ticking or pulsing?

So I’ve gone over all the vacuum lines and connections. Nothing was disconnected anywhere and no visible cracks seen - some hoses are rather hard but also don’t seem to be leaking at this time. I attached a bunch of pictures - maybe someone will see something I’m not. Will try swapping coils on the #2 cylinder next.

I agree with both you guys. I saw the car, eyes got big and I neglected going thru the normal test I should have had done prior to purchasing. That was entirely my fault - I mean, first turbo car remember? I do have receipts for a good amount of things that were done by the previous owner. And just had a compression tester arrive yesterday, so do plan on getting that done shortly as well. Luckily at this time it's not my only vehicle, so it hasn't been a big issue having it not working at the moment.

Thanks guys. At least we crossed a few things off the list! Lol. Have not done a smoke test, might be time to. I did get pretty familiar with the vacuum lines real quick, already replaced one in the past so I’m sure there must be more that are old and cracking. Sounds like the place to start. I have picked up a pending 302 code in the past, so there is likely an issue there that was present before all this. I have changed plugs, but not coils. When swapping coils, can the two on the same side be changed with each other do you have to change one with the other side of the engine? Want to say doesn’t matter as I’m mainly checking to see if the issue follows the coils or not…. absolutely agree on the overboost being any number of things. I was in the process of learning and working thru that issue before all this happened. Was leaning towards the wastegate or ebcs, which I have checked to make sure was connected.

Update went thru all the fuses both inside and under the hood, not a single one blown. Dropped in a new battery and car maybe and extra second or two of cranking, but it started and idles. I only let it run a couple of seconds before turning off, it’s idling pretty rough. Engine is shaking. I can hear a hissing, but not finding any vacuum leaks or disconnected lines. Almost sounds like the hissing is coming from the alternator (next on the list to check out anyways). In park and neutral, slowly raising the idle I get a flashing CEL at 3k rpm but goes away if I let off and rpm’s go down. Only code I pull is a pending P0302. When rpm’s did hit 3k, there was a rattle that started. I’ve heard that noise before, usually when car was in higher rpm’s - usually followed with P0244. When the car initially broke down merging on the freeway and I realized transmission wasn’t shifting from 2nd to 3rd I heard the same noise before letting off the gas (had pulled over and car died back then).

Thanks guys. Sounds like I'm a little stuck until I drop in a new battery. No clue the age of it, but clearly it has to be replaced. I'll have to do some searching into testing the alternator - otherwise might have to just remove it and take it to get bench tested. It would make sense for something to happen during the turbo replacement that could cause issues (damaged vacuum, nick in harness, etc) - but I've put on 4,000K since I got it and previous owner only said turbo was replacement not too long before the sale. So I'm not 100% sure how long it has been since the turbo change. The only constant lingering problem I've had since getting the car home was P0244 for overboost. Yes vehicle was towed on a flatbed. I will go thru and start double checking fuses. Also read the instructions for hunting down parasitic drains. That probably just about narrows down the electrical side I think. Everytime I have done something to the car I've had to do so with my other vehicle attached with jumper cables.... But the battery wont hold any charge, it slowly goes back to dead dead.

Car was dead again, hooked up the jumper cables. Unplugging the MAF and cranking had little to no change. Only noticeable difference was the thud I thought I was hearing prior didn’t seem to be there . Before I cranked the car, noticed cruise light was flashing. Last time I touched the car there were no codes showing when I was done and walked away. Reader now showed the following: P0102 (MAF disconnected) showed as primary, P0113/P0700/P0817 showed as pending. why would I throw a bunch of codes after hooking up jumper cables and turning the key to on?

Thanks guys. I'll try unplugging the MAF when I get home, see if that changes any. I did clean the MAF when putting in the K&N (Carefully with CRC MAF Cleaner) Unfortunately the more I've been searching the more i've read into blown turbos, banjo bolt, etc.... Kind of kicking myself in the butt for not doing more research before purchasing the car. Working on getting a compression test and leakdown test done, as mentioned above. Sounds like that might help shed some light. Does the battery all of a sudden not holding a charge play into this at all? None of the grounds I have come across so far looked too bad, although upgrading all of the grounds was on the to do list. Thank you for all the help, much appreciated!

Hey guys 2005 Subaru Legacy GT LTD w/ 253,000 miles, automatic and all stock besides drop in K&N. Bought the car at 250,000 mi. Great condition, previous owner took care of the car and babied it and turbo was supposedly replaced shortly before sale. My first turbo car, so kind of learning as I go along here. Car was running great when we bought it. Was already aware it was in need of a front half shaft and transmission mount. Since purchase: changed oil, replaced pass front half shaft, replaced 2 engine mounts, top wishbone mount and transmission mount, changed spark plugs. Not too long after purchase, started throwing P0244 for overboost. I could hear a vacuum leak at idle and found a vacuum line going from the blow off valve to the boost controller disconnected and another vacuum line cracked going from same area to driver side firewall. Reconnected the vacuum line and replaced the crack one, car was good. Couple days later idle was rough and sounded like another vacuum leak, this time was the hose coming off the wastegate - reconnected that one as well. At this point car was back to a nice smooth idle, but felt sluggish when first accelerating (apparently bit of a known issue). Ran great in the middle RPM range but seemed to be having fuel issues in higher RPMs as I could feel slight mis fire. I have thrown pending code P0302 3 times now, but never an actual code only pending. Been babying the car as much as possible while trying to figure out what was wrong. (93 degrees outside and car was under 1/4 tank gas) 3 nights ago I was accelerating from a stop, took a hard left turn and was then accelerating to merge with freeway traffic. After coming out of the turn, I realized RPMs were high and the car was not shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I let off the gas and then stepped back on it which did make the car shift - no sooner did it hit third CEL started flashing. I ended up stopping at the top of the on ramp instead of merging on to the freeway. But when I pulled off to the side and put car in park, it sputtered out until it died on its own. Car was towed home and has not been able to start since. Once it was home, scanned for codes but only got P0302 as pending again. Car then sat untouched until following day. First thoughts were fuel pump. Went out to the car and it was completely dead, battery barely registering 4 volts. Battery was getting to its end of life, but was not having any charging issues before all this happened. Hooked up jumper cables and just let the car sit and soak in the charge. Battery now testing at 12.2 volts - I removed the back seat and was able to probe for 12v at the pumps electrical plug. I can also sit inside the car and hear the pump prime every key turn. Did read online about the small possibility of air entering the fuel lines and that priming the fuel pump should purge that air from the fuel lines. After doing this a dozen times, attempted to start the car which cranks like it wants to start, you can hear a faint thud while it's cranking and after 2-3 seconds the engine starts shaking while still cranking - but it will not catch and actually start. Once tried once and stopped, didn't want to continue cranking and potentially cause more damage. Battery has completely died again since, apparently it will not hold a charge what so ever. Not sure if anything with the tow couldve caused something or if this was just pure coincidence. Car has me stumped at this point - any ideas?