Jeremie

@Delberti believe they are interchangeable, not completely positive. But in all honesty, I’ve already been quoted $800 for scrapping the two cats. If you’re willing to beat that, let me know. Otherwise that’s probably what I’ll end up doing exhaust wise, but that still leaves cat back section and exhaust manifold to turbo section.

@Crazycook99you did notice the grille has been sanded down and repainted right? Original was peeling. $25 shipped if you’re interested. @neeksimonsdo have it and works, just need to pull it. $20 shipped if you’re interested

Additional photos attached. Something in particular you looking for or the whole car? Got an offer in mind?

Hey guys - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT w/ approx 251,000 miles. Car had previous turbo replacement, now lost cylinder 2. Do not have the funds or space to keep, so seeing if there is anything someone might be looking for or possible the entire vehicle. Car is automatic, all the upgrades that come with GT model (leather, heated seats, sunroof, 6 disc changer), other than KN drop in filter car is all stock, brand new tires with less than 300 miles. Car was babied and taken care of by previous owner and it shows, other than expected wear in the seats I have not come across any rips, stains or damage on any of the carpet, seats, dash, headliner, etc. Car is located in Carson City, NV 89706

Sweet. I've had the DP actually out at one point, so already fought the rusty bolts

Oh wow. Alright, so atleast maybe I'll be able to get half my money back on scrapping the exhaust parts alone. Those parts I'm assuming just pull off and go right to the recycler as is, nothing special to it? Interior and exterior are near excellent condition too. Anyone looking for parts?

Yea, apartment living is little rough with working on cars. Dude was asking $2,500 - accepted my offer of $2,000. When purchased I was already aware it needed new transmission mount, tires sooner than later and passenger CV joint, so I've replaced both engine mounts, the top wishbone mount, transmission mount, passenger cv axle, spark plugs and all 4 tires. So you figure I'm probably out around $3,000 in the end.... Roughly, do you know approx how much engines go for whether new or rebuilt?

Carson city, nv

I'm sure the general consensus is the engine is toast. Failed turbo replacement by previous order may not have been done properly and destroyed the #2 cylinder. I never did manage to get a compression test in. I did replace the damaged spark plug and car does start, but it's clearly struggling and barely has enough power to even move itself without wanting to die. Actually, its running about the same right now as it was with the damaged spark plug still installed. Not quite sure what to do with the car at the moment. Don't have the funds to put into it sadly nor the space to store it. Given its engine condition probably be lucky to get anything out of it. Body is still clean! lol. Unfortunately I learned a valuable and expensive lesson with this. Should have done more research and can clearly see why seller was so eager to take my offer on the car. Oh well. But did want to thank the various guys in this thread - I expected a lot of jokes, fun poking and maybe even a little bit of trash talking over the car situation - but every single person who did comment had advice or questions to keep me moving in the right direction. Not sure if I will end up in another subie or not nor was this one ever really running at 100%. But shit was fun when it actually was running as best it could.

Hey - sorry there hasn't been any updates. The benefits of living in apartments has apparently caught me. Cry baby neighbor complained enough times of me working on the car that now its not as easy. I got stuck trying to get the compression test going and had to stop - so at this point car has 3 of the 4 spark plugs back in (replaced damaged one) and the timing cover has also been replaced. Once that 4th plug is in I'll have to see about getting the car moved to be worked on, fixed, sold or whatever.

3 of the 4 plugs are already out. #3 plug gave me issues which is when I broke the cover, I just stopped at that point. I have not turned the engine, turned the key or turned anything really since I broke that cover - didnt want to take any chances. Looking online, it does look like autozone has a borescope that can be rented. Maybe take a look with that while waiting on the cover and compression test.

Ok, so I CAN do the compression test with the cover damaged how it is - just need to remove the cover and take off any of the broken pieces first? Will a possible rod bearing show up on a compression test?

I'm afraid to even ask, #ynansb....?

Perfect, thank you! And yea, it doesn't look too terribly hard - just extra work I shouldnt have had to do.

Plastic fell inside. Was that the repair manual for this car? Sweet. I do see the socket you are referring to as well.

Hey guys - so continued pulling the remaining plugs last night as figured I would do the compression test. Cylinder 3 was giving me some issues, in trying to nudge the engine over slightly I manage to crack a hole in the passenger side timing cover. Part has been ordered, will not be here until Tuesday unfortunately. So think I'm kind of stuck at the moment, dont think it's a good idea to crank the engine with a hole in the cover. There was an odd sound I've now heard 4 different times. It sounds like a high speed flapping noise, I was thinking maybe something with the wastegate. It always happened around 3K RPMs and I do recall hearing that noise just before the flashing CEL when car broke down. When I would rev the car a day or two ago, around 3K again I would hear the noise. That was before pulling the plugs. Not sure if the two are related. Turbo was replaced "shortly" before sale. I thought that was a good thing in the beginning, I now know how stupid I was. I've put just under 5K miles on the car since purchase.

The o-ring gasket we were talking about is orange, so should be good there. I think it’s safe to say we found the cause of the mis-fire, now I’m afraid to ask what could have caused this? I’ve only pulled the plugs from 2 & 4, you can see why I stopped. The ground and center electrode on 2 are practically touching. There’s a total of 375 miles on the plugs. I checked the gaps when they went in (to make sure) and they were all within spec. When the car broke down there was well under 1/4 tank of gas, low enough the gas light was just about to come on. I was making a hard left turn onto a freeway on ramp, maybe 20 ish thru 3/4 of the turn which I then floored it coming out of the turn (car coming the other direction using the same merge, I would’ve had em). As soon as the turn straightened out is when is when everything went to shit and I stopped. my theory, correct if im wrong, although very rare and unlikely, I possibly sucked up air in the gas tank which shot into cyl 2 and caused some sort of detonation…..

@Max CapacityOk, I do see that little orange tab now. So that tab would be orange if the gasket has been replaced and black if it has not? I'll have to check when I get home and see what color it is. @TehnationFigured I would have to pull all the plugs for the compression test and would be a good time to inspect the plugs and swap around as needed. Hopefully tonight I will atleast get all set up to run the compression test.

Thanks for the picture, would never had guessed that's what that was. In your second picture, I'm not quite able to zoom in and find an orange tab. But I do recall seeing that sensor on the passenger side and also saw those two bolt heads last night when struggling with the #4 injector. Using your 1st pic for reference, is the orange o ring where that sensor mounts to the intake runner?

Yes, NGKs from oriellys What is the tgv?

Yes I am

Good to know, thank you. All these little quirks… So I did swap the injectors on 2 & 4, started the car up and it felt a little different. Was still running rough, but not as bad. Between 2200-3k rpm the roughness goes away until about 3500k cel started flashing. Again stopped once I let off the throttle. Feel a little excited, ran the codes and got….. P0302 again . So the misfire has now stayed at cyl 2 with coil change and injector change. running out of test here, but I believe compression test is probably next. (Left injector was #2, right was #4 prior to swapping)

Thanks guys. @Max Capacityglad it wasn't just me. @ashwinearlit certainly has been pretty hot and I did not know any of the history on the battery. And I was actually on amazon at the same time looking at smoke machines. From what I've read they seem decent enough and can be a big help with tracking down my issues.

There was a total of 375 miles between changing the plugs and the car breaking down. Car was actually running a lot better after the plug change. When it broke down there was zero indication beforehand something was about to happen. I didn't confirm the hissing sound at all. I only hear it when the car is running at idle right around the alternator, as if it is the alternator itself. Which I do plan on getting the alternator tested since having all these battery issues. One thing that did kind of confuse me at the time - I checked the oil and it appeared to be 1/2 qt overfilled. Just after checking it the car started and idled. Checked the oil again after shutting it back off and oil level was perfect. It was as if I had just done an oil change and not yet started it to do the pressure check, like oil had not gone into the filter yet. Going to try swapping fuel injectors tonight, see if that creates any change. And do have the compression test kit, on the to do list as well.