MoleMan

Just FYI.

Fram makes filters for Subaru. They have for years. withb the exception of the Rokis for the EZ30 and 36.  Just go over to Walmart and grab a Fram Ultra.  A Mobil 1 or K&N Gold are also good bets(both made by champion labs)

I would just go to the dealer and get a filter. Even ifs the new part # at least you know it is real and what to look for.  The fake crap flooding the market now on Amazon and Ebay is getting bad.

OP,

Looks like you are doing your own oil change. That's great. However with a new car I would do one thing different. Do not use a Purolator filter.  I used a Boss once in my G37.  This filter does not like high performance engines at all.  It may talk a good game but it's really a crap filter for any HP engine.  As much as I have to admit it a Fram Ultra is a better bet since Subaru Filters(Except for us EZ30 and 36 guys we get the nice Roki ones) are made by Fram.  Subarus are awkward requiring certain PSI pressures so even a factory filter would be best.  Since it's under warranty I would just stick with a factory TBH.  All my other cars besides my Subies I prefer Mobil 1 filters.

If your oil is full that as Silverton has pointed out it may be something else(Thinking CVT fluid?). But if it's leaving pools oif fluid I would bring it in to a dealer as once again the dipstick is full.  Only other thing I can think of is that it's water discharge from the A/C system. 

If you have ramps I would inspect ihe underside for any leaks before bringing it in. 

On 6/20/2023 at 9:12 AM, DougKelly20 said:

HBA can be turned off by selecting ON on the light stalk. When it's in auto HBA is on and when it's ON HBA is off.

When I first purchased my 2019 3.6R it was super floaty on the highway. I found my tires were over inflated from the factory (or more likely by the dealership). Once that was corrected it was better. However it got much better when I upgraded the RSB and put a Strut bar in the front.  

I have a spare strut bar if you want it but with shipping from NY to WA you're probably better off buying your own brand new.

On my 18 all I do to put HBA on is push the stalk forward while the lights are in the on position.  What I hate is some 17s have the bulky setup on the mirror instead on the one unit in the later models.

All I can say is I have used the feature once in five years.  

On 6/20/2023 at 10:23 AM, ammcinnis said:

The published drag coefficient (Cd) of the Gen 6 Legacy is 0.29, which is pretty respectable. Not so long ago, that was racecar territory. In fact, the published Cd for my 1969 Porsche 911S was 0.29, and it was considered remarkably low at the time. Of course, the Gen 6 Legacy has a substantially larger frontal area than the early 911s.

Well said.

I worked for Nascar/ISC for a few years. In specific working on the CD specs for the Dodge cars when they were making a comeback.  If I can recall a Lamborghini LP 5000 Countach has a CD of .31.  As far as bringing that tech to market on a commercial basis Dodge was really the first with the cab forward design in the mid 90s.

11 hours ago, m sprank said:

Dont get me started on the tire debate.  I lived though the Ford/Firestone debacle.  Auto manufactures do not design, engineer or build tires.  The air pressure recommendations on your door sill are from the auto manufacturer, not the tire manufacturer.  They are also SPECIFIC to the EXACT tire the car came delivered with.  Most times the tires have a name brand and model, but the retail model IS NOT the same as what the car was delivered with.  The tire manufactures make changes specified by the auto manufacturer. 

That being said.  The air pressure recommended by the auto manufactures is generally LOW to the point of being outside the tires design parameters.  If a tire is rated at 50psi max load and you operate it at 32psi the tire is underinflated by 36%.  The tire manufacture will consider this to be "flat" and all warranties expressed or implied are invalidated. 

In my personal experiments a 4th gen LGT rides best on the road at approximately 42psi front and 40psi rear.  I never tested a 5th gen, but would expect similar results. 

Running tires underinflated dramatically increases the heat generated by rolling resistance.  This increases internal air pressure slightly, but also leads to BOOM, especially if the if the vehicle is over loaded or driven at excessive speed.  Just my $0.02.

My 4th Gen 3.0R rides like crap with the tires above 40.  I find that they do well at 36.  Running a Cisco rear sway and a Whiteline front bar with a Cisco strut tower brace and Whiteline endlinks but again your GT does not have the Bilstein suspension like the 3.0s and the Spec Bs. They tend to be harsher then regular Leggy springs.

11 hours ago, DougKelly20 said:

Yeah you should be nowhere near max inflation. Mine was at 42 PSI on stock tires and the car was on its tip toes. At 33/32 cold in non winter conditions they ran at 35/34 while warm/hot and not only did it handle correctly, but the tire wear was even across the tire, so to me, that's the correct setting. 

Of course then I went up to 245/45, upped the load index to 100 from 95, dropped the pressures based on a load index chart provided by ammcinnis, and took it to the track so my current settings notwithstanding, when I WAS stock, the manu settings felt appropriate, and the evidence that they WERE appropriate was the even tire wear.

I like to lower my PSI in the winter if I am going to be in a snowy/icy area. Most of the time I lower them to about 30 on all 4s. Granted I am running WS90 Blizzaks.

In the summer I tend to put them up to 36 on all 4s and they go up to 38 and I find that ok for the drive.  40 is ok sometimes but the ride gets tough.

@Sllverton,

With your nearest dealer being over 10 miles away that's a good thing.  Mine is over 200 in any direction.  

As far as my HBA I rarely use that feature. Come to think on it I rarely use the Fog lights either even in heavy fog.  It's something that comes normal in anything but summertime around here so most people just drive in the fast lane on I-80 to avoid any semi traffic coming up.  

As far as Montana. They used to not have a daytime posted speed limit when I lived there.  However most Montana drivers I see are always going 80-90 all the time.  Our speed limit on the highway is 80 while most people do 85 on a regular basis.  However going over a three mountain pass called the sisters in the middle of December I would strongly advise against that.  On that note anyone want to get bonus points guessing where the "Sisters" are?  And no it's not Oregon or Washington.  Some folks local to me might chime in.

Surprisingly the 3.6 for me is great in gas. 28 MPG is average for me.

On 4/7/2023 at 7:04 AM, ncted said:

https://www.subarubatterysettlement.com/

I don't think it is that big an issue for most people, but there is an extended warranty due to this.

Correct.

But why replace it with another crappy OEM battery. Just throw a group 24 or 34 in and have more power. That's what most do/did including myself.

On 5/3/2023 at 2:36 PM, silverton said:

I too prefer the interior of the 2018. It definitely feels more 'up to date' than my 2017. That's another thing I would have liked is the automatic locking/unlocking that starts in '18.

I hate the silly little things they do year after year to get people to buy the new one.

Only thing I want from the Outback is the Brown seating from a 18 Touring.  

Wife has a JB4 on her S4.  Huge difference then stock.  However you need to realize this is similar to an Accessport.  It will provide more PSI to get you more boost.  That being said if car is under warranty I would watch it. You can set everything back to stock. But the dealer can see what PSI that turbo was running at if it pops.  Not to mention we won't even get into the CVT. To many New model WRXs in my area with the CVTs are having trans failures when modded.

As far as numbers you can call Berger Motorsports and ask them for HP/TQ numbers for your 7th gen. I believe her S4 is pulling 463 HP and right around 443/TQ I do not know what the boost numbers are in specific.

21 hours ago, Point37 said:

haven't had time to go car shopping...subaru dealers around here have crazy markups...subaru is really the only company making somewhat of a wagon with the outback...been dumping a quart of 20w-50 into it once a week now...up to 220k miles...getting annoying but still easier than having to go car shopping lol...below is the list of cars i am considering...mostly the ones with the * due to better reliability

sedans
*-mazda 6 touring (memory seat available on grand touring reserve and up, discontinued for 2022)
*-toyota camry xle (no seat memory)
*-honda accord (no leather or memory seat unless hybrid ex-l)
-kia k5
-Hyundai sonata hybrid
*-honda civic hatch ex-l or sedan touring (2022+)

everything else
*-buick tourx discontinued
*-acura tsx sportwagon discontinued
-toyota venza (2015 discontinued old wagon style)
-hyundai Tucson hybrid
-hyundai Santa Fe hybrid
-kia sorento hybrid (3 row)
-kia sportage hybrid (2023+)
*-honda crv ex-l
*-toyota rav 4 xle premium + weather package
-mazda 3 hatchback
*-honda element discontinued
*-toyota prius v discontinued
*-mazda cx-50 premium plus or turbo
*-mazda cx-5 2.5s preferred or carbon

OP,

Did you ever change the PCV Valve on the car?  Just had this issue on my wife's daily with severe oil consumption issues. Changed out the PCV and it solved the issue.

As far as going to a 50 weight oil I would strongly advise against that.  I would go to a 10/40 max.  You could probably even get away with 5/40 M1.

As far as your choice in cars you are looking for.

Just some advice.  The Camry and the Rav are boring plain cars to drive. Great reliability but boring.   The Mazda 6 is a great car and no complaints.  The CX50 is small so sit and drive it before considering it at all. The CX5 is nice.  Any Honda 4 cylinder are great e gines and can't go wrong. Just remember with any Acura/Honda product the sox cylinders have a belt not a chain so plan on another 800 dollar expense to change it. The dealers will always pull the paperwork and Carfax won't prove the changeout.  

Here's another recommendation not on your list. Honda Crosstour EXL V6 4WD. They are rarer like the Venza V6s.  

Honestly I daily a 8th gen Civic with 250K. Bought it brand new in 2006.  Only thing major I have needed to do is change out the Alternator and Starter. Besides tires and brakes etc..

As far as used prices yes they are high.  But in my area I have seen for example 2019 3.6Rs with under 40k going for 19k at a dealer.  However as we all know Leggys don't sell as well as Outbacks and Outbacks are what sells in my area.

But try replacing that PCV and see if the consumption goes away. As I stated it did in my wife's daily.

On 5/22/2023 at 9:57 AM, m sprank said:

The 350Z engine is worthless.  Very disappointing.  Falls flat on its face just when you need it to kick in. 

Dont modify the exhaust or suspension.  Its a 3.6CVT.  Just follow your original intention and you should get 250K out of her, if not more. 

The 350z is actually a fairly capable car.  But the issue like Silverton pointed out is the people that drive them seem to be younger and all over the road. Sorta on the level of a non-STI driver WRX. Always trying to race with 268 HP and rallysport mudflaps makes me laugh.

I have a G37.  Did the Stillen conversion with the supercharger.  Yeah it's a fun car but honestly I enjoy more comfort these days as I am getting older.  Just did a 400 mile trip with the 3.6 and it was wonderful with the eyesight doing most of the work when radar cruise was engaged.

I did break down a few weeks ago and bought a 2015 Lexus RC-F(V8 model not V6) and that car is like a wild stallion. One of my requirements was I wanted a car with loads of power and handling yet was very subtle.  I have to admit most other cars are surprised by the near 480 HP.  But again bought it for a specific reason and it's good to do sometimes be king of the road until a 392 Scat Pack or C8 comes along lol..

But back to the 350 as stated good car yet in today's market very lagging on power even with all the mods you can throw at it.  But I will take a D-Bag 350 or WRX driver over someone driving a Tesla Model 3 trying to race everyone thinking they are entitled for buying a base model Tesla.

5 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

This thread was a little rough to read.

To answer the original question, asked with a period, you can attempt to sell it, and reinstall the factory exhaust. Please leave the stock exhaust on, it sounds the best. If you're going to do anything to the exhaust, then I would suggest an Inferno Fabrications unequal length catted header, and a quality aftermarket exhaust from the midpipe back. 

@Febreze Mae.

I am not the OP.  And an aftermarket exhaust is a total waste of money on a stock 2.5i.  If the OP has no other choice they can go down the aftermarket route.  But I doubt a stock setup for a 2.5 will be hard to find.

I don't think you have the option.  If I recall several YouTube videos are out on this.  One from the guy that used to work at Groove Subaru and another from a Guy at a dealer in Kansas or Oklahoma.  Just look up "pin code Subaru". It has to do with the rear trunk button.  I just dont really remember the 5th gens having this option.

OP,

Just put a stock exhaust on and leave it alone.  Honestly have a lot of the rice-a-roni guys around here.  Muffler deletes and loud obnoxious exhausts. 

Not knocking the 2.5 at all as I have one as well as a 3.0 and an 3.6.  prefer the manual 2.5 honestly more then the other 2 two.

But get a stock exhaust and spend more money on maintenance items.

Whiteline suspension parts will do more for the car handling wise then anything else.

On 4/30/2023 at 10:29 PM, dohturdima said:

I've used Conti DWS for years with my (now gone) Infiniti G35x and the car did very well in the rain and light snow on that tire. They do get pretty noisy after only 10K but still handle well. No AS tire will do well in the cold winter due to losing traction - need a set of dedicated winters for that weather. Stock Yoko's have done Ok but not great in wet weather, but not enough to swap out nearly new tires for any other. My experience with Michelins has been very good though - its the GY that I dislike. 

Thanks.

Had to pull the G37 out today. Forgot why that car is so fun.  And also remembered why I stopped driving it.  To many pesky WRXs and Focus STs wanting to race.  But the Stillen kit makes it so fun lol.  

Next car will be a Lexus RC F lol.

Code,

I did comment on the summer tire question very clearly.  Summer tires are not for a stock unmodded seventh gen at all.  It's not a right fit for the car.  Then again if we were talking about a modded gen 4 with heavy suspension work then perfect.

My two cents...  Thanks for the effort

On this,

To put Pilot 4Ss on a stock unmodded XT is a waste of money.  Pretty much zero benefit.  Only time the 4s would be a benefit is if you are canyon carving.  Get into any wet weather and the car will barely have traction.

I hate Michelin tires with a passion.  Not saying they are not butter smooth on a road trip but that's about all.  The rubber compound is extremely hard on most models and this is why I dislike Michelin tires.  The MXM4 is nothing like a 4s handling wise.  Comparing a touring tire to a summer high performance.

As far as a tire that does it all I prefer the Continental DWS 06 Plus.  I have run the DWS line for 10 years and thrown everything at them on modded cars, weather, and normal driving and they have always smiled back.

Regardless both Michelin and Continental have a 60 day ride guarantee so of you hate them they will give you your money back including install costs.  Agreed Yokohama is bad and I compare Yokohamas to a wet noodle handling wise.

To answer the question as to what everyone is putting on.  I see a lot of DWS, and Michelin Crossclimate in my area. Then again die hards will switch to Blizzaks in the winter.  But most 7th gens still are running the OEM Yolks.

The MAF that is on the car is really new so it should be good.

The MAF being new is a huge plus. What I do is clean the MAF every other oil change when I change the air filters. I think cleaning every 10k is good preventative maintenance.

Hello,

 

I've been looking for a different way to shift up and down through the "(simulated) gears" on my 2012 Legacy 2.5i CVT, other than the inconvenient paddle shifters currently on it. Maybe by putting something on or near the console for more convenience. Does anyone have experience with this or know of someone who has done this? Ideas are always appreciated.

 

And a related bonus question:

Due to it being a CVT with "gears", is there a way to program more gears with different gear ratios, or change the ratios of the "gears" on it?

I have a great solution to the issue.. get a non CVT car.

Seriously all jokes aside I don’t even touch the paddle shifters and in my three liter I have used them once. I have manual cars for fun and Autos just to make my like simple.

Other members have suggested the Invidia Q300. It’s a solid product and I have used Invidia before. Why I removed and sold them was they were not as deep and loud as I wanted. So I went with a Motordyne ARK. However that being said it was for a G37 and not a Subaru.

My props for not wanting an annoying muffler delete.

Thanks! I found the parts diagram from Subaru and ordered the stock air box nut and bolts from them. I think for now, I’m going to stay with the stock box and the Perrin Afta-MAF pipe as suggested earlier.

Just some advice just in case lol.. Clean the MAF before you put it back in. Just some advice.. however I am sure you probably are aware lol.

I'd be happy with the price of brembos if I could find them. I really don't see any other good options that would keep up on the track

The only setup I can think of besides Brembro would be Wilwood. And the cost difference is not cheap at all.

I see a healthy mix to be honest. It’s all about budget. Three quarters of track cars I see will have a power stop setup and I have not heard anything bad about them. The differences between a full power stop and the other mentioned are several thousand dollars.

To be real to invest that type of money for me on a fourth gen is insane.

Dumb question but just because mine are missing.

Does the front of the stock air box connect to the body with one nut on the top (what size? 12mm) and two bolts on the bottom? All of mine are missing.

If I recall it’s one with a rubber bushing between the body and the airbox. I have not really looked in a long time to be honest as the EZ30 I kept stock. The EJ25 I bought new and it has stayed stock ever since.

For reference take a look a the Stillen gen threes and pay attention to the setup. This is the type of intake you really want. I will say one thing however. Make sure you either clean the filter on a regular cycle or buy a new one. These filters get dirty regardless of what K&N says.

Mark,

So just curious did you purchase the XT?