MoleMan

On 4/20/2024 at 9:18 AM, MarkInAustin said:

I am almost 81 and a product of an earlier and simpler age.  It remains true that lower octane gasoline ignites more readily and thus in a higher compression engine pre-ignites [knocks] more readily.  But the electronic control of timing in our now computerized engines changes the simple calculation, I think.

The car will run well on the prescribed octane.  If it runs better on higher octane than on the prescribed octane that would have to be either a timing issue, now computer controlled and not subject to manually advancing the distributor, or a product of altitude - Houston driving requires slightly different octane than Santa Fe driving for the same result [unless the computer has also controlled the density of the air charge - IDK about this - someone here probably does].

 

For those too young to remember, there was a time when you could advance the spark by rotating the distributor, say by an extra five degrees before top dead center, switch to high octane gasoline, which would ignite only from spark and never compression, and gain significant HP.  Advancing spark while using low octane gas was a recipe for knock, in those days.

 

Finally, carbon buildup can raise compression!  An older engine used to be subject to knock because of it.  I wonder if the DGI engines will begin to act this way.

I suspect, but do not know from either experimentation or engineering analysis, that a catch can would limit carbon buildup in a DGI engine.

All your comments from experience or actual analysis are welcomed by me, anyway.

 

Ok.

In a nutshell.  I avoid DI engines like the plague.  You will always have carbon build up because the fuel does not get to the piston it ignites before. While technically more efficient it creates the carbon build up issue.  An acception to this for my is the Toyota 4DS system. You have DI and Port Injection so you don't get the carbon build up issues.

Now the issue here is most all manufactures are going to DI.  To me that is gonna cause a lot of engine replacements after the ten year mark.  

To your question. No. No way to prevent the carbon build up in a DI engines. Once again the fuel is not igniting as normal in the cylinder. It's igniting at the top of the cylinder and not hitting the piston.  It basically ignites when the injector sprays the fuel in a more efficient way.  So regardless of fuel grade used it will still keep building after time.  

Yeah you can use certain chemicals to remove the carbon. But this generally involves putting the chemicals into the spark plug holes(which is a pain in the rear on boxer engine) and doing a "soak" overnight etc.. several videos of this are on YouTube. So you can see for yourself.  Most are being done on Civics which are Port Injection but still a few DI videos are to be found.

A catch can will do nothing to prevent carbon build up.  As far as your fuel question.  Remember Santa Fe will have lower octane then Houston due to the altitude difference.  Most Subarus run fine on regular gas.  In fact I have used 91 ethanol free, 91 regular, and plan crap gas in my 3.6.  results all the same as far as mileage.  And yes 91 is the highest grade due to the altitude I live at. This would be equivalent to 93 in Texas.  Only exception is on the Turbos which I believe need premium.

I would do some research especially on DI more. You will see that some manufacturers have found the problem and have tried to fix it or make the carbon build up better.  While others manufacturers just go a step further and put a port inject in to alleviate the issue all together(Toyota). Now Subaru being partially owned by Toyota I would hope would have something similar to 4DS but I am not familiar or can speak for it as I simply do not know on the 7th gens.

Maybe someone can chime in on that.

3 hours ago, ncted said:

That is an unknown.  They easily could have collected my data per their policies, and it is one bad quarter away from being sold.  Just because I didn't sign up for Starlink, doesn't mean they didn't collect any data.  The person who GM collected data and sold was not an OnStar customer.  This is the point.  Companies can collect whatever they want and sell it without telling you because it is in their privacy policy online, that they can change at any time, also without notice.

While I can appreciate your laid-back attitude on the subject, I prefer to be proactive rather than reactive.  I know I can't control everything, but I'd rather not be caught out

Once again dude.

If it's such an issue.  Just sell your car and get something that is not an connected to anything.  A forth Gen has nothing except for NAV.

Only person that can tell you if your insurance company used this data if in fact it was sold to them is your insurance company.  

I get your point.  But nobody can tell you what's going on other then your insurance company and it's doubtful they will be truthful. If you want push the issue with Subaru  I doubt anyone Frontline at Subaru will know the answer or even care.

Once again in your own words "they may have collected my data according to their policys"  key words here are "may have".  In comparison do you think Credit Card companies do not do the same thing?  Just think on that for a min.  These days everything is tracked to a degree. 

But maybe call your insurance guy.  If any date got sold from your car to them he/she may  tell you.  Or they will probably just tell you what you wanna hear to get you out the door.

Once again I get the point.  But if it's such a huge bother just sell the car and get something older where it won't be a worry.   And I am not being an asshole just saying if I was so worried that's what I would do.

22 hours ago, Jray96 said:

That’s interesting on whiteline, I had assumed they were made in Australia. I saw they had a big sale this year for 22mm f/r sways, and I’d have picked them up if I hadn’t just spent way too much on my b6s and pink springs lol. 
 

From what I have read the beefed up moog endlinks I got from rockauto should hold up pretty well! I’m definitely open to matched f/r sways. Looking at an alignment Monday, hopefully the light clunks I’ve been sporadically hearing aren’t anything too crazy. 
 

i currently have Michelin x ice snows on my stock wheels, I love blizzaks but I get 15% off Michelins. I drive in Washington and Montana a lot so the snow, ice, and random weather conditions make me lean toward some performance a/s tires while still having my snows for the crazy months. I’m in full agreement about the tires though, they’re the most important thing to me handling wise. Even my current winters felt amazing after taking off the garbage prometers the previous owner put on 

Montana and Washington

I'll give you Montana as I drive in Montana quite frequent.  Eastern Idaho and Wyoming here.  Mostly SW Wyoming.  I used to live in Vancouver WA so as you know when that ice comes it's bad..  The ICE X are good as I have run two sets of them.  They do have a mileage warranty and are the only snow tire to do that.  

For me I found the Blizzacks wonderful. But the cheapo GT studded are the ones I have been using on my daily to cross the sisters twice a day from Rock Springs to Evanston and the pass from Rock Springs to Lander two days a week.

As I said DWS are the only A/S tires I drive on.  Great mix. The Michelin AS4 or any Michelin to me the rubber compound is just to hard.  That's just me.  

As for the Moogs they are good.  I actually have a full set of Moogs sitting in a box brand new for my G37.  They are beefy.  About half the price of Whiteline.  

If you have light clunks it's probably just the Billsteins and your setup.  They can be a bit stiff at times and will give that sound.  If it's light it's prob not a LCA but ya never know

10 hours ago, ncted said:

Hell, yes, I am worried about my privacy.  I am sick of corporations constantly monetizing our activities for products that we bought from them.  Anything that has a software component is subject to this anymore.  I don't want to pay more for insurance because I have to accelerate kind of hard to get on the freeway to go to work due to a short on-ramp.  More money is why GM sold their drivers' data, and Subaru could legally do the same thing.  I'm not worried about what might happen with my data going forward.  I am concerned about what might happen with the data they already have.  When I have to buy a new car in the future, it will be even more likely they will capture and sell my data.

As for my insurance rates going up with a new car, ask anyone who has bought a new car recently how much their insurance went up compared to their previous car.

Dude,

You are really making a mountain out of a molehill.  If you a re so worried about it sell the car and get something pre Starlink.  They dont have your data.  You never signed up for a subscription. Besides that you never signed anything.  Then let's take it a step further. Our care can't even connect to the Starlink system at this point in time.

Just saying if you are so worried about it then get something older and then you don't need to stress. To be honest your rates will rise eventually. We are all in this same boat here.  Remember when a king size candy bar was $1.50 at Walmart?  Now we all need to pay almost three bucks if we want one.  Everyone is getting in on the inflation gravy train.

Insurance rates have raised about twenty percent.  Gotta remember new cars have higher parts prices if they need to be fixed.  All the new EVs are totaled if they get into an accident.  So you need to look at it this way.  You may never have an accident and are a great driver.  How many asshats do you see on the roadway regardless of age driving aggressively and speeding?  We are all paying for them when they crash the cars.

Not trying to be an asshole here.  Just saying I would not stress about anything.  If so worried talk to you insurance guy and ask him straight up what's going on.  Once again I have connected cars to various systems. My insurance has not said one time to me that I was speeding or this or that.   Just think you are stressing for nothing.

Sorta reminds me of a guy I worked with.  Very concerned as to why the credit card company was sharing his "data" to the credit reporting agencys.  Just saying.....

Go have a beer and think of how to change spark plugs on the 3.6 without wanting to murder the engineer who thought it was a good idea with the clearance.

2 minutes ago, Jray96 said:

I get what you’re saying, but to me a sway bar no one will see, that is from Subaru of Japan is pretty far from rice; almost the exact opposite.

When I said “JDM sway” I was referring to the literal Subaru part, not some random Japanese company. Sounds like it’s part of your perception of the term JDM, and I can understand your thinking there. 
 

either way, anything I put on this car will be for functionality and reliability. I can appreciate some cosmetic stuff but that’s so far down the list of things I want to put money toward. 
 

 

I got ya.

No worries.

I would buy the matching bar set and endlinks.  That will solve 90 percent of what you are looking for.  The strut tower brace will help with the handling a bit more by giving you a little more stiffness. But it's hard to notice unless pushed.  The sways you can feel the difference instantly.

I believe Cusco also has additional bracing.  But at that point it's more for racing and not the street.

OEM sways are just that.  I do not think their is a difference in part numbers on that specific part.  So the base Leggy has the same sways as a GT.  The Spec B may have a different size but I would say it's probably the same as a normal Leggy.  As I have two 4th gens and my 3.0 R had the same size rear sway as my 2.5i I would say it's a Standardized part.

Of course you can look up the info in a parts guide. But it's all about the difference from stock to aftermarket.  In this case the aftermarket bar is better as it's bigger MM wise.  You can always call up Whiteline as they can tell you the specs vs OEM.

I will tell you one thing. Don't do 28 MM in the front.  It will knock on the subframe when turning as it's to big. 

Heres the funny thing on Whiteline.  Now it's all made in the USA.  Production got switched a while back.  Guess it's cheaper to make here then in Australia.

5 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Thats a sweet deal if you can land it yeah... I do not mean to start a fire here, since talking about either tires or oil seems to really get some people's blood pumping.

But, I think for less than track use, the all seasons are great. I also live somewhere the weather can be shockingly wild. I am on Continental DW06+'s. The "+" is the A/S version... but I came damn close to wrapping my car around a jersey barrier when we got snow and sleet in October a year or two ago. That is like 2 months earlier than we should get snow around here.

That was enough to convince me to go with the A/S that is much more tolerant of cold + slush. Not awesome, but they get you home...

I have DWSs on all my cars.

Have ran them for ten plus years.  Here's the thing.  They are only good in about two inches of snow or less.  In wet they are amazing.  

If you almost wrapped your car around a jersey barrier they you were going to fast for conditions.  One other thing is once the DWS line gets below 4/32 of tread go to a tire shop and get a new set.  They will prorate you as well.  The traction is gone by that time and only a D is remaining.  And besides that they will scream at you.

I live in an snow area. Besides that it can get to -30 on occasion. So now you are dealing with ice under the snow as well that will not melt even with the highway department mix.

So In The winter on my dailys I put Blizzacks WS90s or the cheapest studded Snows. In fact state law to have chains or studs over some of the passes.  Even then a 6 percent grade crossing over 7500 feet with snow and ice is not a 75 mph fun cake walk. Lucky if you are doing 35. Half the time I tuck in between two semis and follow them for safety.

Fun times.  

19 hours ago, KZJonny said:

I totally agree with the general sentiment that paired sway bars are great, and your advice is good...

But you DO you know that Cusco equipment IS JDM, and I guess... therefore ricey?

 

EDIT: The rest was ranty becuase it was super late and I as tired. Hah!

I don't consider Cusco JDM.  It's not ricey as they are more pricy as most components I have bought.  Quality is excellent.

When I hear JDM I am thinking of some cheap "Type R" knockoff eBay part.  I even consider Megan Racing parts part of this yet I have bought strut tower braces from them and have had zero issues.

What I consider ricey is this.

Some base Model Civic with a muffler delete, Type R stickers and VTEC sticker all over the body and a fake hood scoop and huge wing on the back.  Not to mention the awful aftermarket taillights and blue bulbs in the headlight housings.  And not to forget the red H badge.  

I just hate the phrase JDM.  Yeah of you are rolling with an R34 Skyline I will 100 percent support your JDM as that is a true JDM.  A LHD base Impreza is not lol.  

Just a huge difference between real JDM and fake JDM. And let's face it most people in the JDM world have "fast and furious" style ricers and once again not true JDM imports.

10 hours ago, ncted said:

Sure.  Going forward, but any data they collected before the recent 3G shutdown would still be subject to the policies.

FWIW: my insurance rates have gone down 3 years in a row.  How much they will go up is definitely going to be a factor when it comes time to get a new car.

I think you are worried about something you don't need to be worried about.

Your rate depends on where you live.  Mine went down this year as well.

I have driven my 3.6 at triple digit speeds and I have seen no increase.  

Once again both me and you are not paying for starlink.  So why would Subaru waste resources on vehicles that do not have a paid subscription to Starlink?

Just saying I think you are worried about something you don't need to be worried about.  If it's such a bother find the fuse to the Starlink and pull it.

2 hours ago, TwoTone said:

Look up one post- the Legacy wasn't cut.

The last year they will make it will be 2025.

They will most likely not offer a Leggy for the 26 MY.  This seems right in line with what would normally be a model refresh/new redesign year for most manufacturers.

2 hours ago, Jray96 said:

If anyone’s curious, I did end up using the group N mounts. 
 

I have heard a slight clunk at times, but I’m hoping that’s the suspension settling. I’m having it aligned this weekend so we’ll see if they say anything about that. 

 

Other than that, the setup has felt great so far- body roll has decreased a ton and it feels more flat in corners. I also don’t feel the car rock as much during acceleration and shifts, or even just getting into the car. 
 

I’ll be looking at tracking down a JDM rear sway next, if anyone has info on a part number I’d appreciate it! 

Don't start with the JDM sway bar stuff.  It just always sounds ricey to me.  It's like the folks that keep pushing muffler deletes.  No offense ment at all

Just either put the set from Whiteline or put a Cusco rear bar on.  I cannot remember the size specific.  But I think the Whiteline set is 26mm rear 27mm front.  It is well worth getting the set. If you wanna go further get the Cusco front strut tower brace.  Just do it right is what I am saying.  Total set up I believe is about $600 or so.  But it's been a while since I bought my parts.  I think the sways were about $300 the endlinks maybe $100 and the strut tower brace was $250.  Of course you don't need to go Cusco on the brace but I think it looks the best. On top of that it's easily removed with the quick releases.  If you don't have the funds now I would just buy when able and install.  Once again you could just go with a bigger rear sway but I have personally found the car tighter when the sways are more matched.

My setup is Whiteline front and rear sways with Whiteline endlinks and a Cusco strut tower brace.  Very little body roll.  Can still take tighter canyon curves at 70 without issue.

If you are knocking it could be a LCA bushing or a link.  Is the knocking coming from the Billsteins?  Or is it more below?  If you are getting an alignment they should pick up on a bad LCA bushing.  But some don't.

4 hours ago, laufu said:

Where can I find information on the Legacy being cut?  I would think auto outlets like Autoblog and Car and Driver would show this information.  

Just search for it on Google. It comes up plain as day.

The Legacy is not very popular anymore. Sorta like my Lexus GS 350. Great car just sales numbers went away so they cut production all together.

I personally think an electric Outback or Crosstrek option would sell like hotcakes.

On 4/17/2024 at 7:06 AM, ncted said:

From the NYT article:

"the trip details had been provided by General Motors -- the manufacturer of the Chevy Bolt. LexisNexis analyzed that driving data to create a risk score "for insurers to use as one factor of many to create more personalized insurance coverage," according to a LexisNexis spokesman, Dean Carney.

Upon Mr. Dahl's request, LexisNexis sent him a 258-page "consumer disclosure report," which it must provide per the Fair Credit Reporting Act. What it contained stunned him: more than 130 pages detailing each time he or his wife had driven the Bolt over the previous six months. It included the dates of 640 trips, their start and end times, the distance driven and an accounting of any speeding, hard braking or sharp accelerations. The only thing it didn't have is where they had driven the car. On a Thursday morning in June for example, the car had been driven 7.33 miles in 18 minutes; there had been two rapid accelerations and two incidents of hard braking. "

From Subaru's privacy policy which we all agree to when we get in the car, which is somehow legal:

"3. HOW WE COLLECT INFORMATION

Connected Vehicle Services
We collect Personal Information and Non-Personal Information automatically from Connected Vehicles.  This Information includes vehicle and service-related information, including but not limited to VIN and vehicle description; vehicle maintenance information; mechanical condition or incidents involving the vehicle such as crash severity sensor data; time, LOCATION and speed of vehicle; a Vehicle Occupant’s search content;  your personal identification number (“PIN”); and information about calls related to the Services or your account, such as the date, time and duration of the call, the identity and phone number of the caller, and contents of or notes about the call. In addition, your vehicle may be equipped with one or more sensing or diagnostic modules capable of automatically retrieving, recording, transmitting, or storing certain vehicle data, including but not limited to trouble codes, tire pressure, battery voltage, coolant temperature, and service requirements. We may collect and retain data from any such modules in your vehicle.

Subaru may disclose and share Personal Information and Non-Personal Information in accordance with the practices described in this Privacy Policy. The categories of entities to whom we disclose Personal Information (including in the last 12 months) include the following:

...

API Providers and Data Providers
“API Provider” means a third party licensor of software that we include in, or use with, the Services, including an API or SDK, that provides a specialized function or service to us and that requires the transmission of Personal Information and/or Non-Personal Information to the API Provider.

“Data Provider” means a third party provider of data aggregation products and services. We may disclose Personal Information and Non-Personal Information to API Providers and Data Providers and, in some cases, API Providers and Data Providers may use Personal Information and Non-Personal Information for their own benefit.  In such cases, their privacy policies will apply to their use of such Information."

https://www.subaru.com/support/privacy-policies.html

So, it would be completely legal for them to collect and share/sell the data whether we want them to or not. And some third party can determine whether I drive safe or not, probably algorithmically, despite not having an at-fault crash or ticket in my life.

Key word on this is "connected vehicles"

According to Subaru the sixth Gens like ours don't connect to Starlink anymore due to the cell coverage requirements changing.  So In our case it's a non issue.

I can see seventh Gen owners having issues if they drive like asshats.

Anyway insurance rates have rose for everyone.  People are driving very aggressive as of recent.  

On 3/26/2024 at 6:56 AM, ncted said:

I got my LexisNexis report today and no driving data was in it, so Subaru has not sold my data, at least to this point.

LexisNexis is a credit reporting agency.  And most consumers do not even know about them as most credit pulls are done by the "big 3"

Selling consumer date will never be on a public reporting service or credit reporting service.

You insurance provider is who buys the information.  Everyone is raising rates.  So they can use anything as an excuse to raise rates up to and including saying your car date says you do 5 over the limit etc so on etc..

Generally you can push it and the will do a soft pull and the rate will always drop because they know issues will happen if the push the date thing.  

In our cars we have not agreed to anything.  I don't pay for starlink or any services so nothing should be tracked.  Honestly I only thing 7th Gens may be tracked but IDK.

Info know both our Lexus vehicles are not tracked at all.  

Then again I get the point. But if you are driving like an ass I also agree with insurance raising rates.  

On 4/15/2024 at 2:02 PM, 0SuperDuper0 said:

News that 2025MY will be the last and no more.

Possibly.

More mid size sedans are getting cut from lineups.  Going all small SUV and hybrid/electric.  Toyotas partnership probably plays a huge role in this.  Makes me think they will start cutting other lower selling models in segments.  

I can see the Legacy and the Ascent cut first.  They won't touch the Outback, Forrester and Impreza lineup for a bit.  Who knows on the crosstreks as they are good selling.

WRX will probably stay.  But die hard fans are already gone from the brand on the new models.

Will be interesting!

On 4/10/2024 at 8:31 PM, Rod702 said:

Man I don’t what to tell you. I posted a video of me Turing the wheel inside the car with clunk, a video with me inside engine manipulating the steering rack with clunk noise. I examine all the bushing with best of knowledge, they all look like in good shape for 2016 car.

clunking noise in steering is still there but not as bad as before, but the noise over slight bumps is completely gone. Service advisory told me they all clunk on steering, what is concerning was the noise over slight bumps.

mechanic didn’t even drive car he sat in car and manipulated steering knew exactly it was the steering rack. 

Once again.

Take it to a gosh darn shop and tell them you have a clunking sound going over bumps.  Do not tell them you looked at anything and it's fine etc.. just say I have a clunking sound.  Your mechanic is going off what you are saying.  The EPS issue does not "clunk" it's more of an annoying rattle.

Your issue is a control arm bushing or a broken endlink.  That's it.  A professional mechanic even gave you advice on this forum.  If you choose to keep ignoring the recommendation thats up to you.  My 3.6 does not clunk when steering and I have not had the EPS spring replaced.  My modded 3.0R does not clunk on steering, my 2.5 does not clunk on steering both of those do not have EPS.  And if we want to go further with EPS cars. My two Lexus's don't clunk when steering, my Camry V6 never clunked when I owned it. And my Scion TC does not clunk when steering.

Seems to me that your guy cannot even tell the car has a broken suspension component.  Or is the reason you are telling him or her that you checked it out and it's fine?

Stop with the EPS excuse and take the advice given already dude.  Your video exactly sounds like a broken LCA bushing or endlink to me.  It will make that sound turning lock to lock.

Once again take it somewhere and just tell them you have a clunking sound going over bumps.  Stop trying to guess yourself.

3 hours ago, Lttlwing16 said:

Checked the rubber mounts today, and they're good. 

Cat shield was just removed by the dealer because it had been damaged by a previous owner. 

I have plastic dust shields behind the wheel, and tried some tricks to isolate those and they weren't the issue. 

Thanks for the thoughts, and keep them coming! 

The dust shields behind the rotors should be real thin tin.  Did you replace them with plastic?  

Another thought is maybe some small rocks or small pebbles under a plastic cover somewhere.  I have had this issue on every Lexus and Toyota I have ever owned.  Sometimes it gets annoying.  It just rattled like a spray can sometimes.

What about the rubber mounts the rear cans are held in place to?  I know I had a rattle and it was the fact the muffler came loose from the rubber mount.

I had a similar issue in my 3.0R. same type of sound.  Turns out it was the cat heat shield.  But for some reason the noise was coming from the rear.  Sounds sometimes can be nowhere near where we think they are coming from.

Another thought is the tin dust shield behind the wheels.  That can get bent real easy.  I have had issues with that I. The past having the same noise you are describing as well.

No problem.

Added pic just in case for reference.

Mine is an 18 but I do not think they would go from Red to White on the 19 considering it was the last year of the Generation.

Dealer probably has two part numbers and guessed wrong.  But all the sixth gen should have the same bulbs.  Maybe he thought it was a seventh Gen?  But IDK about the lights on those.

Glad I could help.

And the answer is

Red!  

In the picture it makes the P,N, and R look White for some reason.  But I can verify it's Red. The Parking Brake button and the hill decent button are also Red.

And the M-D does not light up. Probably because you can see it on the center display between the Speedo and Tach.  

I believe the white are correct. However I may be wrong since I rarely look at the color of the shift console lights.

Let me jump in the Leggy later(have to start it anyway) and put the lights on.  I'll let you know.  

I would stick with the Fumoto.

With me never had an issue with the product as well and the gasket material is being nitpicky if I wanted to gripe.  The way I look at it yes it's cleaner.  But still gotta replace the oil filter.  But on the daily that had the Fumoto I did notice that 3.75 quarts came out with the filter not the four that normally came out.  I am the guy who lets the oil drain for a half hour to make sure every drop comes out and it's on ramps on an angle so it's easy to do that.   Great product just decided that for me the plug was a better way.

Depending on what engine the Fumoto makes things way easier especially if your filter is on top it's clean. With bottom mounted filters for me it's easier with the plug.  But once again great product.  

I am glad we share the same opinion with Kia.  At least yours drives without needing a quart of oil every 200 miles lol.

1 hour ago, silverton said:

I hate driving a manual in traffic, actually hate driving a manual period but especially in traffic, and that seems to be 90%-100% of my driving. I may be an outlier but Eye Sight does most of the driving and I'm fine with that, helps make it feel like I didn't spend an hour in bumper to bumper.

I cannot agree with you more.

Traffic in my area consists of 80 MPH freeway speeds and maybe some occasional 18 wheeler that is slow to pass another. Love wide open country!  Love the ACC and eyesight.  When I do go to the next major city 150 miles away(population rate is 1.5 million)I could never do a manual.  My wifes S4 is manual and I hate driving that thing even in light traffic.  Awesome car  but with a previous back injury it makes things 10 times worse.

But Subaru saw a market.  I just with they would have put a non CVT in that car.  

On 3/26/2024 at 7:19 PM, Rod702 said:

So got the part installed. The clunking noise from left to right is not as bad as before. But a noise on little bumps is gone.  The Subaru advisor said that was issue really to be worried about. But I appreciate every one’s help! 
 

anyone needs this 5 point Torx bit I’d be willing to lend it out to pay it forward if anyone needs it !

IMG_3990.mov

Not as bad as before?

So you never had anyone even look at the suspension professionally after two members advised you to do so one being a professional mechanic?

And the Subaru advisor does not know anything!  These guys job is to make money off you.  They are not professional mechanics.  Some are OK and can tell you something at least.  But most are just there to take your complaint and pass it along to the mechanics and sell you those cabin air filter replacements that need to be done now for only $80 bucks lol.

I have a bad LCA on my Honda.  I know its bad because it clunks. and I have the issue once a year.  The bushings fail due to the roadways.  Its not the endlink because those are brand new.  However I am not going to just go to my mechanic and say I already looked and the LCA is fine.  I am just going to say the car has a clunk please fix.

I wish you the best.  But the issue has nothing to do with the EPS TSB.  It is a suspension issue.  the EPS issue is more of a rattle over low speed surfaces.  I know its there.  I have have not had the TSB done and I live with it because it does not effect the performance of the EPS system.

If the clunking comes back please bring it to a professional and just say your car has a clunking noise.  Thats it.  No more or no less.

On 3/30/2024 at 7:29 AM, silverton said:

I was at the dealer a few years after the new CVT equipped WRX came out, and I had heard our cars did the neat CVT thing at that time.  Pin it and it stays at peak RPM and the car just scoots, but too many people complained about it apparently and wanted shifts.

Curious if anyone with a 15/16 CVT WRX can confirm that or not.  Sometimes my 3.6 feels weird, but I think that's the fact the torque converter stays locked in like 90% of situations.

Not to harp on anyone.

But why in the hell would someone buy a WRX with a CVT?

Yes I have seen them and yes I have seen the owners.  So it makes sense based on the type of owner I see driving them.  They tend to floor them as you said.  However that being said I see alot of replacement CVTs on these cars as well.  in my opinion a WRX should be manual only.

I agree with the 3.6 statement.  If I want to floor my 3.6 sometimes and I am at lights the car just acts weird.  Its bogged down.  But as soon as I get onto the highway again thing wakes up and has power when I need it and want it.

CVTs are just weird sometimes.  But at least the Subaru CVT is not as bad as others I have driven.  Honda seems to be one of the worst unless you floor it.  And I am a huge Honda fan(Daily is a 8th Gen civic with 220,000 on it)

Does not look like a chip.

looks like something like bird crap or sap/tar that needs to be cleaned off.

The dealer will not do anything.  Since no other areas on the car are having issues.  It will be a nicely worded get out we won't do anything situation.

I have birds craping on my cars all the time.  My house is surrounded by 100 FT trees and the birds love the berries.  The crap looks like what you took a picture of.  My daily is white and I can see it similar to your picture as well.