MoleMan

On 2/17/2024 at 6:08 AM, 06Obsidian3.0RB said:

Thais get the New SR Premium struts as well.

Link to promotion video. Just use setting to turn on auto generated subtitles. 

Interesting because he runs through the range and there is an oe replacement, then the excel g which he says is 20% stiffer.

 

Why did you not choose the OEM Billsteins?  I hate KYB with a passion. Just cheap junk TBH.  I get you already have them in the car.  But I was forced to buy KYB during Covid due a supply shortage on my daily. I regret they decision daily but I needed something fast at that time.

Maybe I missed something that said why you did not go with the Billsteins. But those are the better setup.

On 5/25/2024 at 7:19 AM, silverton said:

While it may work for some people, I do not recommend a 12k+ OCI.  These new turbo motors take 4.8 quarts of oil, it's not a volkswagen or an Audi with double that where a 10k OCI is viable.  I don't even recommend Subaru's suggested 6k OCI but they have to reduce the reported cost of ownership somehow.  Everybody should be changing their oil around 4k miles if they want to avoid leaks.  The first change I would definitely do before 1000 miles.  Old oil gets saturated with gasoline, and gasoline eats seals.  #1 reason Subaru's leak is owner neglect.  I've seen many 3.6's with half the mileage of mine pissing oil whereas mine is bone dry, wonder why. I stop wondering when I look up their service history and see they are changing the oil every 8-10k miles.  Even with 7 quarts of the good stuff I change at 3000 miles.  A little extra maintenance goes a long way.

For oil, I recommend Mobil 1 or Idemitsu

Funny I emailed and called Idemitsu and never got a response.  So I just stick to M1.  I don't go EP just the regular M1.  The reason is some cars just don't like the add packs in EP.  Burn off never has been an issue with M1.  Honestly any good quality oil will work just as equal.

Personally my Leggy is not fun it's not boring it's just another car in my lineup that is a good highway cruiser.

Now what I consider fun is my RC-F.  Close to 500 HP with the luxury to match.

6 hours ago, Opie said:

Toyota is slowly killing Subaru....
Bought more and more stake as Subaru quality and volume improved...
Used them to help produce a 2-door sports car, then had them build it in a Subaru factory to use up valuable production space, then took 83% of the cars produced to help their own numbers.
Convinced them to go full EV by 2030, knowing if it fails, Subaru doesn't have the $$$ to survive...
Had them ax the new STI because the GR Corolla was coming and they didn't want the competition...
Had them ax the Legacy because it was affecting Camry sales...

The big thing about the GR Corolla.  It's a three cylinder putting out 300 HP and has AWD.  Pretty badass as far as power for such a small engine.  The 7th gen WRX sucks.  All the die hard fans stay far away.

In my area even the 18 year olds don't want them anymore.  

On 5/20/2024 at 8:12 AM, pduncan1963 said:

Working with a 2023 Legacy premium. 

According the Whiteline website, the bar is supposed to fit 2020+, but when you enter the model year in the "Verify Fitment" field, the website states it does not fit, but if you enter 2022, it shows it fits.

Anyone have an idea what the difference is between 22 and 23 or is their site wrong?

A lot of aftermarket don't update lists often.  If it's on the same platform it fits 

Prime example is my 4th Gen 3.0 no fitment yet fits without issue.

The 7th gen platform should be the same for Sway bars. 

But as far as the verify fitment. Whiteline has done that for years.  

Once again call up Whiteline and ask the tech guys if you have doubts.  I used to have to email Yoshi at Cusco and he needed to very with corporate in Japan the fitment. Always took him a day but I always got the right part.  

On 5/20/2024 at 11:52 AM, IcyFridge said:

I do wonder what difference the Sport has from the regular Legacy. Subaru's site doesn't mention anything about that.

I'd love to tighten up the already stellar handling on my '24 Sport and was looking into swaybars or even a strut brace.

Buy Sway bars.

The brace won't really go e a feel until you get the sways. Then put the brace on and you will feel a lot less body roll from the whole car.

On 5/23/2024 at 12:41 PM, Max Capacity said:

So, can we assume you got a 2024 ?

 

We picked up our 24 Outback XT a few weeks ago. I plan to wait until near 6000 miles before its first oil change. At that time I will be installing a Fumoto Oil Drain valve as I have been using them for many years now. Just put a hose on the valve's nipple and drain oil into an empty gallon milk jug, then take it to the local junkyard, they take it for free, and use it to heat the shop. You can call around and find some repair shops that do the same.

 

The 24 will get Amsoil motor oil, and I'll go to 12,000 + miles oil and filter changes using Amsoil filter. 

 

On my 18 3.6R, I did the first oil change at 5611 miles, it's been on Amsoil since. Has 46,000 miles now, bought it Oct 17' 

 

Using good oil and going longer, makes less waste oil.

Why Amsoil?

My biggest gripe is you have to order it and it's a MLM. Not saying it's not a good oil at all as I have used it. But I have found no difference in 5k changes between Amsoil and M1.  This is on a daily driver Civic that gets reved to 6k normally.  I have also used Redline with same results.

Granted I do every 5k for ease of remembering. For extended changes M1 EP and Amsoil SS are excellent with the winner being Amsoil.

The filter is not made by Amsoil. It used to be made by Champion Labs(same as a M1 filter) now they are made by Mann & Hummel. But never had an issue with the M1 filters.  Stay away from Fram. Or just go factory that's what I do on my 3.6.

However I would not do anything like a Fumoto until after the warranty is up.  If the engine has an issue and the see the Fumoto they may deny the claim and say your Fumoto caused oil loss etc..  just saying I also have used Fumoto for ease of the oil change.  But discovered that I still needed to change the filter anyway so went back to a normal drain plug.

As far as the ops question. New engine. 1k. Then change again at 3k, And the third change at 5k. Then go to 7.5k, change again and go to 10k. Overkill yes.  But that's how I do new engines.

But again... To each his own

5 hours ago, mrmako said:

Guys, been dormant for a while but I'm finally heading back to Japan so I'm buying a lot of Subarus (3 exactly). My questions is this: I would like to share my trials and tribulations of owning a Levorg STI (soon to purchase once I arrive). Would this be a thread to place int he "Other Subaru Platforms? Just curious. Thanks.

Just check the shipping charges back to the states. I shipped a Land Rover Defender back when I was stationed in Germany. It cost about four grand 15 years ago once all the fees were totaled up.

And why three Subarus? If it was me I would find a R34 Skyline and put it in the mix. Especially if you wanna flip them.

But yeah never have seen a Levorg on the states.

On 4/26/2024 at 2:12 PM, KZJonny said:

Jeez. She big.

An Outback big?

I would call my Ram 3/4 extended cab with an eight foot bed big

3 minutes ago, IcyFridge said:

Yeah. I have ran plenty of snow tires on my Charger and Focus ST. 
the CrossClimate blew them out of the water in everything except packed snow/ice. I was extremely impressed. 
here we have a bunch of slush and wet snow, which is where the water shedding of the CC2 shines. 
if I lived in Vermont, I’d have studded tires because the ice is real over there. 
 

tldr; the CC2 are like 80%+ the performance of a good winter tire and much better than a cheap winter tire. I don’t have a garage and I always liked to be prepared. I’m near Rochester and it was in the 70s in January then we got ice and snow in February. We get 4 seasons in one day sometimes. 

What type of Charger?

Wife had a Scat Pack with the 6.4 before she needed AWD and traded it for her S4.  

As far as seasons. We just got 14 inches in the mountains last week with 3 falling in town. Next day it was 75.

I run DWS on all my cars except for the winter. They are good up to about 3 inches. But love the water and slush.

On 5/15/2024 at 5:50 PM, longmuirj said:

I prefer a 6cyl than a 4cyl. Like you said, much smoother when accelerating without pushing the tachometer and feeling like the engine is going to explode. I had 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT with 200hp and a 6cyl and it ran so smooth. I might do a hybrid, but I am not ready for a full electric car yet. I like being able to "gas up" in five minutes and go, rather than wait more than a hour for it to charge on long trips.

Speaking of Grand Prize.

I had a GTP version of that car. And I also had a Bonneville SSEI.  Tons of get up and go from The Superchargers.

As far as the Turbos. If they are just cruising I really don't see any power and loss compared to the 3.6. but I do see a difference getting into the highway where the turbo will scoot you but as you said it's getting pushed and that's what I hate about my commuter special 4 cylinder Honda. Just feels like it's gonna fall out of the car when getting into a highway.

29 minutes ago, IcyFridge said:

No stranger to trucks and lifted jeeps here. I have no qualms with running 18s. Just that the Facebook marketplace is flooded with 17x8 sti bbs wheels. 
 

no matter what, I’m running either CrossClimate 2 or Cinturato Weatheractive. Had CrossClimate 2 on my Crosstrek and it was a tank in the snow here and in VT. My dads f150 with studded snow tires had a harder time going up the driveway. 

Crossclimates are not snows lol. But if they work they work. Never got those tires as they are so different but everyone Ink own that has them says they are great. But I personally hate Michelin as for me the compound they use is just to hard.

I am stuck with having to use studded snow tires due to crossing a six percent grade over three mountains.  Then the non climbing part of the drive is dicy in the winter.

Type in I-80 Wyoming truck pileup. That's where I am driving.

And as far as Jeeps. Wife just bought a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon. It's really nice. Has aftermarket wheels and all the outdoor add-ons form the bed. Looks really sharp in the black which is rarer here. Still smaller then my 98 Ram Cummins 3/4 ton

Just now, IcyFridge said:

I’m in Western NY right in the snow belt with occasional trips to Vermont. 

Gotta laugh

Love Western NY to be honest.  But where I live 5 out of 10 cars are Subies with another 3 out of ten being Quattro Audis.  Not to me tion all the Trucks lol.

But we also have the coolest licence plates in the country Next state over has a special motto for the snow on their plates

But back to tires. I was sick of getting smaller wheels for the winter. So I just put snows on the stock tires.  So that is another option if you go with the 17s you could also use them as a snow set if you wanted.  But as far as ride comfort you may see a little less jarring but that also depends on the tire you buy. If you say are running a Michelin Defender with a 800 treadwear it will be harsh. So mething like a DWS will be more sporty but also not as harsh.

Just now, IcyFridge said:

I wouldn’t mind a set of 18s but there are vastly more choices out there for 17s, including the RPF1 in black which I had on my Crosstrek prior to this. Unfortunately not the same bolt pattern. 
 

also 17s are cheaper and deal with potholes better. 

Depends where you live with the pothole.  Where are you?

And yeah the tires are a little cheaper but not so much. Talking maybe 100 bucks a set difference and it's probably cheaper then that to be honest.

Why do you want to downgrade to 17s?  Is it just because you like the look of the STI rims?  I try to avoid used rims just because you could have issues with them.  Never know.

2 minutes ago, longmuirj said:

When Subaru got rid of their 3.6L, they replaced it with a 2.4L Turbo and about the same horsepower. Will Toyota also be replacing their 6cyl with a 4cyl turbo?

Nope.

Just the 2.5 and Hybrid from what I see when I go and build a new Camry on Toyota.com. the Corolla GR still retains the three cylinder turbo(300 hp out of a three cylinder and AWD OMG!)

Yeah the 2.4 to me is more to torqy but the 3.6 is just so buttery smooth. If I wanted a turbo I would just go and get another WRX and end it lol.

The Tundras have gone to six cylinder Turbos with an option for the V8 on the top trim only.

The Avalon is gone off the lineup as well.  Honda also removed the six cylinders from the Accord a few years back only offering the 1.5t and 2.0t.

I think we will start to see larger displacement engines start going away to make room for electric and four cylinders.

On 4/30/2024 at 8:47 AM, IcyFridge said:

I have a mirror mount for my Uniden R7 radar. I also have the Mirrortap that I used on my previous Crosstrek.

However, this is my first Eyesight vehicle and don't want to mess anything up with that system. Does anyone know if there's switched 12v by the rearview mirror? If so, which wires can I put the pins in from the mirrortap?

I would not even mess with it.

On a side note I run Valentine Ones on all my cars.  Never have gotten a ticket. They are miles ahead of any other product.

On 4/25/2024 at 6:36 AM, oxygene said:

Now that the weather is getting nice I started driving with my sunroof open, but am getting major sun glare on my info/media screen. Has anyone put an anti-glare screen protector on theirs that is recommended?

Try this.

My Lexus Info/media screen is covered a little by the dash. You could try just putting something to cover the screen from above and see if that cuts down on the glare.

On 5/9/2024 at 9:40 PM, fuzzysoul said:

And it's official:

https://whitelineperformance.com/products/rear-sway-bar-20mm-heavy-duty-blade-adjustable-2020-outback

I was planning to take the plunge and grab one of these anyway, once I realized that the Aussies at Whiteline might not have access to a Leggy for fitment testing.

It will fit.  Same bar. Both vehicles are on the same platform.  But once again I would get the matching set front and rear.  To me the car will feel just slightly not planted with just the rear bar.  With both the feel is amazing.  The above poster also commented on the adjustable Links. Great suggestion. Now is the time to do it.  

If you are unsure call RedRover AKA "Whiteline" and ask them they should tell you without bullshit answers.  Keep in mind most parts are made here in the US now.

On 5/13/2024 at 8:19 PM, fuzzysoul said:

Momma ECU ain't gonna let you overtorque that CVT chain ... but it's also emissions. Popping the throttle wide open quickly will dump unburnt fuel out of the exhaust. The ECU and the emissions control stuff on the heads try to stop that from happening. But, yeah, the programming feels weird. Give it a nudge and then drop the hammer, and you get much better response than just straight punching it.

Love your post.  

Makes me feel guilty for driving my 98 3/4 Ram with the Cummins. I have a controller on it with a bigger turbo.  I never try to "roll coal" but I was hauling my 34 foot toy hauler last weekend on a 6 percent grade and rolled some coal.  

But agree with you about the CVT.  You just got to do as you described and the car feels more linear.  But once again it's a CVT. At least the 3.6 sorta dumbs down the slow as hell feel.

On 5/3/2024 at 11:35 AM, silverton said:

The new camry is a better looking car too.  That TRD trim they have, woof!

To bad after the 2024 model year Toyota will no longer offer a V6 in any car they sell for that brand.  You would need to go to Lexus to get the 3.5.  Toyota will still continue to put the 4.0 in the Tacoma.

Seems like for the 2025 model year the Camry is only going to have the 2.5 four banger or the hybrid.  But the 25 Camry looks really nice.

As far as the TRD Camry. It's sorta a joke.  It looks nice.  But the FWD just does not do it. It drives nice as well.  But that's about where it ends.  Just a body kit.

On 4/20/2024 at 9:18 AM, MarkInAustin said:

I am almost 81 and a product of an earlier and simpler age.  It remains true that lower octane gasoline ignites more readily and thus in a higher compression engine pre-ignites [knocks] more readily.  But the electronic control of timing in our now computerized engines changes the simple calculation, I think.

The car will run well on the prescribed octane.  If it runs better on higher octane than on the prescribed octane that would have to be either a timing issue, now computer controlled and not subject to manually advancing the distributor, or a product of altitude - Houston driving requires slightly different octane than Santa Fe driving for the same result [unless the computer has also controlled the density of the air charge - IDK about this - someone here probably does].

 

For those too young to remember, there was a time when you could advance the spark by rotating the distributor, say by an extra five degrees before top dead center, switch to high octane gasoline, which would ignite only from spark and never compression, and gain significant HP.  Advancing spark while using low octane gas was a recipe for knock, in those days.

 

Finally, carbon buildup can raise compression!  An older engine used to be subject to knock because of it.  I wonder if the DGI engines will begin to act this way.

I suspect, but do not know from either experimentation or engineering analysis, that a catch can would limit carbon buildup in a DGI engine.

All your comments from experience or actual analysis are welcomed by me, anyway.

 

Ok.

In a nutshell.  I avoid DI engines like the plague.  You will always have carbon build up because the fuel does not get to the piston it ignites before. While technically more efficient it creates the carbon build up issue.  An acception to this for my is the Toyota 4DS system. You have DI and Port Injection so you don't get the carbon build up issues.

Now the issue here is most all manufactures are going to DI.  To me that is gonna cause a lot of engine replacements after the ten year mark.  

To your question. No. No way to prevent the carbon build up in a DI engines. Once again the fuel is not igniting as normal in the cylinder. It's igniting at the top of the cylinder and not hitting the piston.  It basically ignites when the injector sprays the fuel in a more efficient way.  So regardless of fuel grade used it will still keep building after time.  

Yeah you can use certain chemicals to remove the carbon. But this generally involves putting the chemicals into the spark plug holes(which is a pain in the rear on boxer engine) and doing a "soak" overnight etc.. several videos of this are on YouTube. So you can see for yourself.  Most are being done on Civics which are Port Injection but still a few DI videos are to be found.

A catch can will do nothing to prevent carbon build up.  As far as your fuel question.  Remember Santa Fe will have lower octane then Houston due to the altitude difference.  Most Subarus run fine on regular gas.  In fact I have used 91 ethanol free, 91 regular, and plan crap gas in my 3.6.  results all the same as far as mileage.  And yes 91 is the highest grade due to the altitude I live at. This would be equivalent to 93 in Texas.  Only exception is on the Turbos which I believe need premium.

I would do some research especially on DI more. You will see that some manufacturers have found the problem and have tried to fix it or make the carbon build up better.  While others manufacturers just go a step further and put a port inject in to alleviate the issue all together(Toyota). Now Subaru being partially owned by Toyota I would hope would have something similar to 4DS but I am not familiar or can speak for it as I simply do not know on the 7th gens.

Maybe someone can chime in on that.

3 hours ago, ncted said:

That is an unknown.  They easily could have collected my data per their policies, and it is one bad quarter away from being sold.  Just because I didn't sign up for Starlink, doesn't mean they didn't collect any data.  The person who GM collected data and sold was not an OnStar customer.  This is the point.  Companies can collect whatever they want and sell it without telling you because it is in their privacy policy online, that they can change at any time, also without notice.

While I can appreciate your laid-back attitude on the subject, I prefer to be proactive rather than reactive.  I know I can't control everything, but I'd rather not be caught out

Once again dude.

If it's such an issue.  Just sell your car and get something that is not an connected to anything.  A forth Gen has nothing except for NAV.

Only person that can tell you if your insurance company used this data if in fact it was sold to them is your insurance company.  

I get your point.  But nobody can tell you what's going on other then your insurance company and it's doubtful they will be truthful. If you want push the issue with Subaru  I doubt anyone Frontline at Subaru will know the answer or even care.

Once again in your own words "they may have collected my data according to their policys"  key words here are "may have".  In comparison do you think Credit Card companies do not do the same thing?  Just think on that for a min.  These days everything is tracked to a degree. 

But maybe call your insurance guy.  If any date got sold from your car to them he/she may  tell you.  Or they will probably just tell you what you wanna hear to get you out the door.

Once again I get the point.  But if it's such a huge bother just sell the car and get something older where it won't be a worry.   And I am not being an asshole just saying if I was so worried that's what I would do.

22 hours ago, Jray96 said:

That’s interesting on whiteline, I had assumed they were made in Australia. I saw they had a big sale this year for 22mm f/r sways, and I’d have picked them up if I hadn’t just spent way too much on my b6s and pink springs lol. 
 

From what I have read the beefed up moog endlinks I got from rockauto should hold up pretty well! I’m definitely open to matched f/r sways. Looking at an alignment Monday, hopefully the light clunks I’ve been sporadically hearing aren’t anything too crazy. 
 

i currently have Michelin x ice snows on my stock wheels, I love blizzaks but I get 15% off Michelins. I drive in Washington and Montana a lot so the snow, ice, and random weather conditions make me lean toward some performance a/s tires while still having my snows for the crazy months. I’m in full agreement about the tires though, they’re the most important thing to me handling wise. Even my current winters felt amazing after taking off the garbage prometers the previous owner put on 

Montana and Washington

I'll give you Montana as I drive in Montana quite frequent.  Eastern Idaho and Wyoming here.  Mostly SW Wyoming.  I used to live in Vancouver WA so as you know when that ice comes it's bad..  The ICE X are good as I have run two sets of them.  They do have a mileage warranty and are the only snow tire to do that.  

For me I found the Blizzacks wonderful. But the cheapo GT studded are the ones I have been using on my daily to cross the sisters twice a day from Rock Springs to Evanston and the pass from Rock Springs to Lander two days a week.

As I said DWS are the only A/S tires I drive on.  Great mix. The Michelin AS4 or any Michelin to me the rubber compound is just to hard.  That's just me.  

As for the Moogs they are good.  I actually have a full set of Moogs sitting in a box brand new for my G37.  They are beefy.  About half the price of Whiteline.  

If you have light clunks it's probably just the Billsteins and your setup.  They can be a bit stiff at times and will give that sound.  If it's light it's prob not a LCA but ya never know

10 hours ago, ncted said:

Hell, yes, I am worried about my privacy.  I am sick of corporations constantly monetizing our activities for products that we bought from them.  Anything that has a software component is subject to this anymore.  I don't want to pay more for insurance because I have to accelerate kind of hard to get on the freeway to go to work due to a short on-ramp.  More money is why GM sold their drivers' data, and Subaru could legally do the same thing.  I'm not worried about what might happen with my data going forward.  I am concerned about what might happen with the data they already have.  When I have to buy a new car in the future, it will be even more likely they will capture and sell my data.

As for my insurance rates going up with a new car, ask anyone who has bought a new car recently how much their insurance went up compared to their previous car.

Dude,

You are really making a mountain out of a molehill.  If you a re so worried about it sell the car and get something pre Starlink.  They dont have your data.  You never signed up for a subscription. Besides that you never signed anything.  Then let's take it a step further. Our care can't even connect to the Starlink system at this point in time.

Just saying if you are so worried about it then get something older and then you don't need to stress. To be honest your rates will rise eventually. We are all in this same boat here.  Remember when a king size candy bar was $1.50 at Walmart?  Now we all need to pay almost three bucks if we want one.  Everyone is getting in on the inflation gravy train.

Insurance rates have raised about twenty percent.  Gotta remember new cars have higher parts prices if they need to be fixed.  All the new EVs are totaled if they get into an accident.  So you need to look at it this way.  You may never have an accident and are a great driver.  How many asshats do you see on the roadway regardless of age driving aggressively and speeding?  We are all paying for them when they crash the cars.

Not trying to be an asshole here.  Just saying I would not stress about anything.  If so worried talk to you insurance guy and ask him straight up what's going on.  Once again I have connected cars to various systems. My insurance has not said one time to me that I was speeding or this or that.   Just think you are stressing for nothing.

Sorta reminds me of a guy I worked with.  Very concerned as to why the credit card company was sharing his "data" to the credit reporting agencys.  Just saying.....

Go have a beer and think of how to change spark plugs on the 3.6 without wanting to murder the engineer who thought it was a good idea with the clearance.