aero901

Sounds like some kind of alignment issue given the tire wear. Inner edge tire wear can be an indication of too much toe-out. Is the tire wear also feathered (tread blocks feel grippy when running hand in one direction laterally across tread but not the other)? I'd check the drivers side tie rod end and lower ball joint for play first.

Swap pan from old engine? I had to do this when I got a JDM engine that had a crushed oil pan from shipping damage. Not that hard of a job. Location and depth of the dent would be determining factor if needing replacement. If the dent is near the oil pickup tube it could cause oil starvation under some conditions and the oil level would still appear to be fine on the dipstick.

Yeah, the shift timing leaves a lot to be desired which wasn't a big deal when I though this was going to be easy. lol After a little more research, there were apparently on wheel buttons for shifting the ATs on a few earlier model Gen 4s. Steering Wheel Transmission Shift Control Switch - Part # 83153AG000, https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Outback-30L-5AT-LLBean/Steering-Wheel-Transmission-Shift-Control-Switch/49293860/83153AG000.html Would much rather have the paddles though. The current wheel I have has, on the left side satellite switch, a mode select button and two arrow buttons for the radio that I never use. Maybe there's a way to rewire those to do the trans shifting...

Got the paddle shifter assembly and tried to install it today. No beuno... Differences between the 05 and 08 models are significant to say the least: - 05 lower column cover is too small to house the additional girth of the paddle shifter bracket and switches. Trimming a little off or cutting slots to clear the actual paddles doesn't look like an option. Must use the 08 top and bottom covers. - Lower drivers kickpanel on 05 needs a larger cutout to fit larger lower steering column cover. (~$50) - 05 Column height adjust lever is in wrong position for the 08 bottom column cover. Need a 08 steering column (~$100)? - Stering column switch housing (angle sensor bracket or the white thing) from the 05 doesn't have proper cutouts on top screws and is missing the middle screw bosses to fit the paddle shifter bracket. Luckily the shifters came with this piece. - 05 steering wheel will not work because the cruise control stalk interferes with the right paddle. Need to swap in a 08 steering wheel with the satellite cruise control buttons to save cruise control (~$100). - Steering angle sensor will need to be changed to the 08 version to work with the 08 steering wheel controls (connectors are different for controls). - Will need a different airbag; 05 & 08 not same size/shape (~$140) Unknowns: - Is the wiring from an 08 wheel compatible with the 05 wiring harness? - Will ignition switch from 05 bolt onto an 08 column so reprogramming keys or getting new keys isn't required? - Will 08 steering angle sensor be compatible with 05 computers? - Will 08 top column cover will fit the opening below instrument cluster on the 05 dash? Unsure if I'm going to follow through with this project. Looks like it's going to be much more involved and expensive than I originally thought. Going to need at least another $400 worth of parts. Anyways, though I would put this info out there if anyone is thinking of trying to add paddle shifters to an 05 so they will know what they are getting into. 08 Steering Column Switch Housing 05 Steering Column Switch Housing Lower Column Covers: 08 on Left. 05 on Right Paddle interference with 05 steering wheel cruise stalk. So close but so far...

Probably better doing a total under-body tray with diffuser if looking for meaningful downforce in the rear. Not as easy though.

Found a set of JDM paddle shifters and wondering if they will fit a USDM 05 Outback 5EAT EZ30? Planning on doing custom wiring to tie them into the manual trans shift function so this is more a question of if they will bolt on to the existing steering column. The correct shroud with the cutouts is also included with them.

Great write-up and install. Fire extinguishers are something often overlooked in a vehicle. Always found it funny that boats are required to have a FE onboard but not cars... I have one that lives in the back passenger foot well but need to get it mounted like this.

I've used the Bevinsee v35 and recently upgraded to the v45s (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CG3S3TR). Both are very bright and fit within the dust caps with room to spare on an Outback. One of the v35 bulbs burned out after 6 months but they were only $40-50 for the pair and the seller warrantied them. Will see how long the new ones last and if they crap out, going to something in a higher price point. Can't believe how much better these led bulbs are than the halogen alternatives; I can actually see the road at night now.

I'm in the same boat. Getting a "do not have permission to access this page" error when trying to create a post in member classifieds.

AC runs during the defrost cycle to dry out incoming air (colder air contains less moisture). Air passes over the evaporator before the heater core. The heater core reheats the cool dry air before blowing it onto the windshield/side windows. Is the evaporator even capable of getting cold enough to allow ice buildup? Granted it will be colder than the air coming out of the vents.

Try measuring the OD of the hard lines with a pair of calipers to get a feel for the ID of the hoses. Or better yet, take one off and take it to the store when getting new hose. Make sure the replacement hose is rated for use with oils.

Probably not the glass guides causing this. I had to remove the door card and adjust how the glass attached to the window regulator to get a proper seal. FSM has the procedure listed under section: Body>Glass/Windows/Mirrors>Front Door Glass (GW-11-15) or pages 4632-4636.

Cabin air filter is above the glove box. Kind of a process to get to it on on the 2005s...

Defrost works pretty quickly in colder temps for me (15-30F). Anything below that takes longer. Is there excess moisture in the car? Possibly from melting snow on floor mats or a leak somewhere? I've had problems keeping windows defrosted in those situations. Filled a couple tube socks with silica cat litter and put them under the front seats to help absorb some of the extra moisture in the cabin that builds up during winter. They're like big "do not eat" desiccant packs. Cabin air filter clean? All HVAC actuators working correctly?

I had a wind noise in that general area that was caused by the drivers window glass being misaligned with the a-pillar weatherstripping just above the mirror gusset. It was a loud rushing type of noise at +50mph. Have you checked if the mirror mounting nuts are tight? IIRC, there's foam/weatherstripping between the mirror and door gusset that needs to be compressed to seal properly.

Probably Duplicolor Metalcast Yellow Anodized spray paint?

I bought a 2005 Legacy GT 5EAT shaft from driveshaftstore.com and got it installed (https://driveshaftstore.com/Subaru-Legacy-Driveshaft-2005-111530). The length is good but, as expected, I had to add ~25mm worth of spacers and longer mounting bolts (M10 x 1.25 x 70mm) to make up for the different carrier bearing bracket offset. Only issue is a vibration coming from the shaft under acceleration right around the 5mph mark. No vibration at higher speeds. Comparing the OEM Outback shaft to the Legacy shaft there are a couple notable differences: Outback shaft has u-joints at the ends and a CV type joint near the carrier bearing. Legacy shaft has 3 u-joints and they look a lot beefier that those on the Outback shaft.

I bought a 2005 Legacy GT 5EAT shaft from driveshaftstore.com and got it installed (https://driveshaftstore.com/Subaru-Legacy-Driveshaft-2005-111530). The length is good but as expected had to add ~25mm worth of spacers and longer mounting bolts (M10 x 1.25 x 70mm) to make up for the different carrier bearing bracket offset.

Thanks for the link. 27111AE17A fits: - Legacy 3.0L AT 4WD L Sedan 2005 - Legacy 3.0L AT 4WD Outback Wagon 2005 Don't think this is the one. Suspect "AT" is not the same as the "5AT" transmission? 27111AG16A & 27111AG12A fit: - Outback 2.5L TURBO 5AT XT 2005-2008 - Outback 2.5L TURBO 5AT XT Limited 2005-2009 - Outback 3.0L 5AT L.L.Bean 2005-2009 ***My Vehicle*** - Outback 3.0L 5AT Limited 2005-2009 - Outback 3.0L 5AT R 2005-2009 I'm pretty sure the one(s) below will work but would feel much more confident if someone could verify. 27111AG06A & 27111AG02A fit: - Legacy 2.5L TURBO 5AT 4WD GT Limited Sedan 2005-2009 - Legacy 2.5L TURBO 5AT 4WD GT Limited Wagon 2005-2008 - Legacy 2.5L TURBO 5AT 4WD GT Wagon 2005-2008 - Legacy 3.0L 5AT 4WD Limited Sedan 2008-2009 - Legacy 3.0L 5AT 4WD R Sedan 2008-2009

I've been following this thread for a while wanting to do the proper Legacy suspension swap on my 05 Outback H6 5EAT. Finally starting to collect the parts to make it happen and this thread is goldmine of info. Thanks to everyone who has contributed! My understanding is most of these swaps are done with the XT models and manual trans. I'm looking for a Legacy driveshaft that will fit the H6 and 5EAT drivetrain combo. Was such a shaft available in the Legacy models?

Browsing through the RockAuto catalog: - 05 Outback H6 w/ 5EAT shaft is listed as 57-15/16" to 58-3/8" long. - 05 Legacy GT Auto trans is listed as 58-1/2" long. No idea which points they are measuring from on the shafts to get these lengths (or if they are being consistent between manufacturers) but these seem close enough? Is there room for some play in the length of the shaft when installed in the vehicle? Plan is to fab some spacers and use longer bolts temporarily to fit the Legacy shaft to the Outback suspension. FYI, here are the other shaft lengths listed for engine/trans combos: - 05 Legacy H4 NA & Turbo w/ Auto trans: 62-1/8" & 63-1/8" - 05 Legacy H4 NA & Turbo w/ Manual trans: 65-1/2"

Yep, not wanting to replace it with the same shaft for the H6 if possible. My question is if I can use one of the Liberty shafts with the different carrier bearing. Wanting to do a Liberty suspension swap on car eventually to lower it. It didn't look like the carrier bearing was removable on these? Otherwise I would just swap the Liberty carrier bearing over to a H6/5EAT shaft.

I have an 05 Outback LL Bean with the H6 and 5EAT. Which model of Legacy driveshaft is compatible (length wise I guess)? The roller bearings in the rear universal joint in the current shaft have rusted and there is a bad vibration when driving. It looks like the u-joints aren't serviceable; bearing cups are staked into the yolks. I'm planning to eventually do a Legacy suspension swap to lower the car but not ready at the moment. However, I don't want to buy two driveshafts... Thinking about adding some spacers and longer bolts to the Legacy shaft carrier bearing to get the correct offset for the Outback setup for now and removing them once the other suspension bits are installed.

Have one on an OB and it's definitely a mess/time saver. Only worry is knocking it on something (road debris, tall rocks on 4x4 roads, etc) since it does stick out further than the stock oil plug... Keep the stock oil plug in the car just in case.