Rcnesneg

It drives good! The only issue I have is a slight overrun while shifting I'm still working on. I've gotten good at releasing the pedal a second before shifting and that pretty much masks it. Over 5000 rpm the shifts are crisp and smooth! I only have issues with the overrun "burp" between 3000 and 5000 rpm. Here's what happens with my overrun "burp" if I really try to exaggerate it. We think it might be EGR related but we aren't sure. Still trying to figure out. Here's the differences in world market ROMS for auto and manual 3.0R that I've found in the tables. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1K_gdUnv832fJmmK64xLzxbUnjWC4PVg5gguz77_Y5sU/edit?usp=sharing Regarding traction light - Yes, I've gotten that if I launch it and dump the clutch into second as well. Light comes on, computer thinks, applies brakes for a second, and then I'm good to go again. I've had that happen twice. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the outbacks soft suspension allowing the car to shift weight forward and backwards more than normal, resulting in different front/rear wheel speeds for a second which freaks out the VDC?

I believe they are interchangeable, but I'm not positive. There is a difference in the groove pattern between Spec B front axles and 2008 USDM Outback 5EAT front axles. I'm not sure if they physically can be interchanged without an issue.

Holy cow - I didn't realize how awesome this thing is! Way to go dude!

Kukazula, This is all on a stock ECU. The rest of the car thinks it's just an automatic stuck in M mode and never shifts. If you're going to get a 3.0R USDM ecu (not standalone) I'd get an 05-07. There are wiring differences starting in 2008. SI drive isn't that cool, and I suspect things will be more interchangeable if you use a 2005-2007 3.0R donor for the ECU, BIU, keys, engine, etc. Also I believe 2005-2007 has a sport mode but no sport sharp, you'd just need a new button for it. Here's my thread: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/peters-h6-manual-swap-outback.531081/

TY856WVDBD - It's from a JDM 2007 Legacy 3.0R Spec B. $3000 from Ebay on a pallet with the whole drivetrain. Shipped from Toronto ($3612 total with lift gate service). Really any TY856 works, but you need the other stuff too. legacypic.uk has all the transmission gear ratios and is super helpful. Mine is just a normal Spec B transmission. You can also get the STI box with DCCD (more $$$) or the S402 box (Super rare from Japan, higher 5th and 6th gears). I was really tempted on the S402 box but this one was in better shape and $600 less. SI drive works fine - It's just throttle mapping. There may have been some transmission responsiveness parameters that are changed with the automatic but none of that matters. It just changes how the pedal feels, that's all as far as I can tell. It's not some giant black magic thing like everyone thinks it is.

Updated list - Or make a new thread rather than using search function? OEM Subaru - Discontinued, not generally available. Mont Blanc (OEM), Now sold by Perrycraft. - $324 MB3747-B-02 https://www.perrycraft.com/product/add-load-bars-set-factory-installed-flush-mount-rails-47-inch-black-rectangle-bars-includes Yakima Ridgeline flush bar system with #24 Clip (Available in Silver, Black with many different bars) - $700 https://yakima.com/products/ridgeline-system EZ Rider w/ Small roundbar crossbars https://infolookup.yakima.com/ EZ Rider Locking w/ Small Roundbar Crossbars Railgrab w/ small roundbar Whispbar System - Discontinued? - Good luck finding kit K325! Whispbar Flushbar S22 kit K325 Whispbar Throughbar S15 kit K325 Whispbar HD T15 Kit K325 Roof Rack Bars P15 kit K325 Thule - UK Only - Will need help importing fitting kit 186002. Standard Bars - Foot Pack 7106, Fitting Kit 186002, 108 SquareBars 7121 Wingbars - Foot Pack 7106, Fitting Kit 186002, Wing Evo Bars 108 711100 - $360 Slidebars - Foot Pack 7106, Fitting Kit 186002, Slide Bars 891 Probars - Foot Pack 7106, Fitting Kit 186002, Pro Bars 390 Thule Edge Wingbar, Thule Edge Flush Rail, 720600, Thule WingBar Edge 77, 721200, Kit 186002 https://www.car-roofracks.co.uk/subaru-outback-roof-racks/5-dr-estate-2003-2009-flush-rails https://www.thule.com/en-gb/roof-rack/car-roof-racks/thule-edge-wingbar-_-95xx?car=subaru-outback-5dr-estate-_-GLkY6LQ5Fa Prorack (NZ Only) Prorack S-wing through bars and S15 kit Prorack S-wing Flush Bars and S2 Kit Prorack P-bars + P15 kit Prorack HD Bars + T15 Kit https://www.roofbox.co.nz/pages/product-result?rq=mk_subaru~md_outback~yr_2007~zw_5dr-wagon-flush-rail-mount-sep-2003-aug-2009 Subaru Forester Rails (1999 or equivalent?) - Require modification. Easily found in junkyards.

Kukazula, Sure - PM me your email and I'll get it sent over your way. We have a whole google drive with all that in it. It needs some cleanup before it's published but there's a lot there. I have a months worth of CANBUS logs from the car also, which may be helpful for the new ECU to play nice with the other stuff on the system. CANBUS is mapped out - to the extent we're going to map it - for my 08 3.0R. I'm moving onto ECU tuning now for the stock ECU. I have a throttle delay issue while shifting but other than that it seems to be running at 100%. I've put 3000 miles on the car since the swap now and it's fantastic. 70% of that has been on cruise control. Make sure you get the instrument cluster and BIU also with the keys and immobilizer - You probably know this already.

BrandonspecB, Whereabouts are you located? I'm in Sandy. Would love to get together and see your 3.0R at some point.

"It can't be done" "Canbus is too complicated" "Cruise will never work" "No cruise control" "The H6 will never be a manual, forget it." "You have to use a JDM 3.0R ECU and harness" "But you'll lose cruise" Well, Cruise ran yesterday after 4 evenings of working on Canbus. It holds and adjusts speed with confidence and authority. VDC and ABS are running too. I'm using a laptop and an EVTVdue (arduino designed to hack Tesla Canbus) right now to send 0x420, 0x421, and 0x422 packet loop but the laptop will be gone soon and the EVTVdue will do it on it's own. We're almost there! 2008 Outback 3.0R 6MT with USDM auto ECU and ROM and TCM replaced with EVTVdue/GVRET/Laptop.

I got my H6/6MT back from the shop! It's fantastic! The STI clutch/LGT Dual mass flywheel bites hard and the H6 feels torquey so it's taking some getting used to but I love it! It's got a real nice whine in 1st and 2nd. I also tried feeding 0x420 and 0x421 to the CANBUS and got ABS/VDC to work off the laptop. Cruise now powers up but does not set. I still have a lot of work to do on the Canbus and center console switches so I think that might be the ticket. I am chasing a noise issue though - There's a little bit of a light tap sound when I start moving, and I'm not sure what it is. It's a single tap and doesn't repeat until the next time I start. In 2nd gear if I go on/off on/off the throttle I can get it to repeat a little. It generally happens under light acceleration and occasionally over a bump. Turning doesn't seem to influence it. It might be exhaust or driveshaft related? Clearances in that area are pretty tight... They had to remove the center exhaust hanger when it was installed. The shop that installed it said they had trouble with the tranny hitting the tunnel on hard acceleration so they played with the pitch stop mount and it isn't an issue since. I doubt that's related since that was a hard acceleration issue but it's possible? Also, one of my new front CV axles is throwing grease on the exhaust. Are the front Spec B CV axles interchangeable with the 5EAT axles?

The Legacy shifter has a different length stay and shifter assembly than the WRX - so you'll probably need the shifter assembly from a Legacy Spec B then you should be good to go.

Typically when an H6 goes wrong a low-mileage JDM engine is swapped in. I did the rebuild route for head gaskets and wished I'd just swapped it. I think I was around $7k and five months in free loaner cars. A JDM swap would have been about $3k. That was right after I bought it. Two years later, I'm still the happy owner of this beautiful car, and the engine still runs like brand new. Almost to 200k miles now! It was worth it, but I'm not sure if I would do it again.

This is a 5EAT H6 to 6MT H6 conversion. The clutch master cylinder is replacing a rubber plug, so I'm starting from scratch. Either way - I'll figure out the part number from the shop and add it to my needed parts list for the next person. That makes sense! Because the transmission donor was a manual (jdm 3.0R) and my exhaust is from a automatic. Thank you!

I'm mapping CANBUS signals on a 2008 USDM Outback 3.0R/5EAT with VDC. These signals are coming from the TCM on the CANBUS network (Viewed with savvycan) What are they - what do they mean, and why would they need to be broadcast to other modules on the CANBUS network? 0x420 Byte 3 - I think this is some sort of turbine speed? It has what looks like an RPM signal in 1st gear or when stopped. Once up out of first and moving faster it just goes to a steady signal with some weird static? 0x420 Byte 6 - Resolved - Most likely turbine slip. 0x421 Byte 0 - Is this the DC Solenoid Valve Pressure? What's the Direct Clutch solenoid? It has a weak or variable signal in 1st and reverse, a very strong signal in 2nd and 4th, and a moderate signal in 3rd and 5th. 0x421 Byte 1 - Resolved - Most likely Engine Torque Reduction Request Signal Thanks in advance!

Update: Apparently there are USDM vs JDM differences on the 3.0R with exhaust routing, hangers, etc. The shop finishing the mechanicals of the swap has found/resolved several items: First, there's a reservoir/damper/metal line on the clutch master cylinder that only 6MTs have. Apparently it runs up along the firewall somewhere - and I missed it on my parts list and the junkyard outback 5MT I got some parts from didn't have it either. So that's a last-minute order from Subaru to get installed. Second, The transmission exhaust mounts and routing was slightly different between my 07 JDM legacy 3.0R 6MT transmission and my old 08 USDM 3.0R 5EAT outback setup. Apparently the shop made some adjustments to several of the hangers and trimmed something and now it fits nicely. I suspect the JDM exhaust runs apart farther back than the USDM exhaust. No idea why unless it's a USDM emissions thing. Lastly, The driveshaft is a JDM legacy 6mt driveshaft and is installed on the outback - and apparently fits at a more appropriate angle without being spaced down like the outback driveshaft was. (I have a 1/2" lift on a stock 3.0R outback). They said if I need to space it down more it may rub on the heat shield. It should be all wrapped up in about a week once the clutch damper gets in and I can get some pictures and start on CANbus fuzzing to correct ABS/VDC/Cruise issues.

Well sorry guys, I'm converting my H-6 over to 6MT, so no more 5EAT for me... But if anyone needs the CAN bus from your 5EAT mapped out I'm happy to share the ID database from that.

Salt Lake area. Here's the decoded CANbus messages as far as I have found. If anyone knows any more please let me know. This is for a 2008 Subaru Outback 3.0R LL Bean (USDM) with the factory 5EAT. A lot of this is the same as the Subiediesel archives and will most likely be the same for any of you with Legacy GTs and Outback XTs. 0x002 Steering angle sensor Byte 0 and 1 - Steering angle, 16 bit, LSB, Signed. 0x070 Yaw/G sensor? 0x075 Yaw/G Sensor? Byte 0 MSB as parity Byte 1 Counter 0x410 ECU Byte 0 Byte 1 – Engine torque? Byte 2 – Transmission torque? Byte 3-Torque loss? Byte 4-Throttle (X100/255) Byte 5 & 6– Engine RPM (Little endian, 16 bit) 0x411 ECU Byte 5 - Memorized Cruise Control Speed Byte 6 – Cruise control lights, Brake switch 0x412 ECU? 0x420 TCM Byte 0 – Always 0x00 Byte 1 – Gear indicator – P=0x88, R=0x77, N=0x00, 1=0x11, 2=0x22, 3=0x33, 4=0x44, 5=0x55 Byte 2 – Some signal, usually around 0x81. Looks like a compensation signal that adjusts in for a second only after some long hard accelerations. Bit 0 - some Solenoid Status? Bit 7 - On in D & R, off in P & N. Byte 3 – Some transmission speed? Often around 0x28, drops to 0 when the vehicle stops. Byte 4 – Turbine Revolution Speed, Peaks are chopped off of signal. Byte 5 – Pilot valve pressure? – Fairly consistent signal that only changes in park. Usually 0x3F. Byte 6 – Turbine slip? – Usually near 0. Signed 8 bit signal. Goes strongly positive at WOT, strongly negative during engine braking. Byte 7 – Unknown – Always 0x87. 0x421 TCM Byte 0 – DC Solenoid valve pressure? – Some kind of active 0-255 signal, during WOT pull it pegs at 255 then sags in middle of pull. Sometimes seems to mirror engine RPM. Byte 1 – Engine torque reduction request signal. Signal blips after some shifts. Byte 2 – Always 0x00 Byte 3 – Counter, seems to trigger 0x501 counter but not 0x75 counter. Byte 4 – Always 0x00 Byte 5 – Unknown, seems unrelated to anything. Bits 0-3 may be for rev matching. Byte 6 – Throttle blip for rev matching (Timing blip too?) Byte 7 – Throttle blip for rev matching. (Timing blip too?) 0x422 TCM Byte 0 – Unknown, 0x44 when engine is off, 0x00 when engine is on. Byte 1 – Individual bit signals? Byte is normally 0x00. Bit 6 is the prohibited downshift signal. Byte 2 – Gear selector – P=0x07, R=0x06, N=0x05, D=0x04, M=0x08 Byte 3 – Unknown, some toothed signal. Byte 4 – Unknown, some toothed signal. Byte 5 – ATF Temperature? 0x7C to 0x82 is frequently seen. Byte 6 – Always 0x00 Byte 7 – Unknown, almost always 0x00. 0x501 VDC/ABS? (Torque, flags?) 0x511 VDC/ABS? (Steering angle?) 0x512 VDC/ABS? (Flags?) 0x513 VDC/ABS Wheel Speeds 0x514 BIU? 0x576 ??? 0x600 ECU (Coolant lights?) 0x601 ??? 0x620 BIU/ AC? 0x7E1 Tactrix Openport (Connected on OBD2 port) 0x7E9 Tactrix Openport (Connected on OBD2 port) I also made a .DBC file (maps the signals to the CAN data in whatever can viewer you're using). If anyone wants it let me know.

Dropped my car off for the swap today! Expecting it to take 3-20 days for the mechanical swap. Then I start working on ABS, VDC, and Cruise Control. Canbus is mostly mapped out now for the 3.0R/5EAT. I'll get it all published when I get a chance, probably closer to summer. If anyone needs part lists, pinouts, canbus, etc before then let me know.

Dropped my car off for the swap today. Should be 3-20 days. We have CANBUS mostly mapped out for the 5EAT now - and enough data logs to work a few things out afterwards if needed. I'll post the CAL IDs and byte IDs up shortly. If anyone needs part lists or pinouts before then please let me know. I plan to get this well documented and available for reference sometime soon, probably this summer. Peter

legacypic.uk has a list of all the transmission codes and ratios. I don't know if that helps. For the 5EAT, 2005-2007 has a limited slip rear differential with no VDC, and 2008-2009 has an open rear diff with VDC. I don't think you'd have to worry about that for the 4EAT but they did get VDC standard for 2009 so it's worth looking at that.

Going rate for trans only on ebay is 1600. I just paid $3600 to get the whole drivetrain, axles, and crossmember mounts from a JDM legacy 3.0R spec B. If I had a whole donor car that would have been a lot better. Sell it to someone who wants to do a 6 speed swap and needs the whole drivetrain. I know some people right now that would want it for that.

Yes - however skipping the TCM can joint is the same as unplugging the TCM. There's no difference in converting a T to a -- if all you do is unplug one leg. The dangling leg doesn't do anything if it's there or not. CAN is like a chatroom. Everyone can all talk and if one person is gone the others can still talk. The problem is when someone says "Hey has anyone heard from Gregg recently? He stopped talking." We'll get it figured out I'm sure, just takes some time.

Hey all - I'm doing this as well on an 08 Outback 3.0R. It goes in to the shop for the mechanicals in 2-3 weeks. I'll handle the troubleshooting after driving it home with nonfunctioning abs and vdc. Pedals are installed and I'm working on computer bugs. It runs and starts fine with B55 pin 11 grounded to start and open to run, and with the TCM disconnected and the one DTC (P0600) turned off, but I have no abs, vdc, or cruise. I'm also working on mapping out everything the TCM reads and does normally so I can replicate that if needed with an arduino or just send CAN packets to make everything else think it's still there. Kukazula, have you done anything with CANBUS yet? I'm doing the swap with three other guys and we're working on mapping out all the CANBUS stuff as well as making a plug-n-play wiring connector kit so we don't have to cut or splice any wiring.

We don't have a USDM manual ROM. If I can flash a LHD European ROM onto it that might work, as long as it doesn't remove emissions functionality. I'm hesitant to do that on my own car until I can verify on a test ECU that it flashes ok. Edit: I just comparted USDM and Gen market ECU pins and it's 95% identical, but we have a couple of pins for gas tank pressure and emissions requirements nobody else does. If we flash a non-USDM ROM on it I'd probably lose that functionality if it even flashed ok. So the best solution is probably to treat it as a standalone market and write a manual ROM from the auto rom as needed.

Greetings! I'm swapping a USDM 2008 3.0R to 6mt. My transmission package (07 JDM Spec B) will be here this week and the swap happens in 4 weeks. Pedals are already installed. Here's where I'm at on troubleshooting: Car runs with no rev limiter and TCU disconnected on the auto ECU and ROM. No CEL with P0600 disabled. I'm trying to figure out how to satisfy the ABS and VDC systems next - the lights won't go off and I can't figure out why. Maybe rear transmission speed sensor data is needed via CAN? If any of you guys have a turbo 5EAT and wouldn't mind checking to see if your VDC and ABS lights stay on if you start it with your TCM disconnected, that might help. All the previous swaps have been Turbos and you guys have the manual/automatic pin on the ECU to change. I don't. Cheers! Peter