Rcnesneg

Please join the Facebook group EZ30R MT Swappers. The Google drive link is there and those guys are super helpful. Mitch Siegel is writing new code for the 2005 since my 2008 code doesn't work for 2005. I no longer have a Subaru - Too expensive to drive - so I got an electric wagon. I won't be around much anymore since I no longer deal with ICE engines - but the Facebook swap group is super helpful. Good bunch of folks.

Legacy GT MT rom is on the romraider website or forum - there's a list with download links to all the stock roms. Search for "Stock subaru ROM" or something like that. There is no H6 MT rom for the US. Other market ROMs may or may not fry the ECU of a US AT H6 car. If you want to do an H6 swap that's the can of worms we worked on in the EZ30R MT Swappers facebook group.

Dual mass is what the Legacy 3.0R Spec B (H6, 6MT) had (As far as I know). I believe USDM Legacy GT Spec Bs also had it. Dual mass is heavier and smoother. So it's harder to stall the engine, and the car is smoother, but doesn't rev as fast. It's easier to drive for a road car. Single mass is rougher, but will rev faster. So if you're building a car for drag racing, use a single mass. I believe the STIs use a single mass also. They also make ultralight flywheels if you're racing.

Does this help? Stock OEM parts for a 2008 Legacy Spec B? https://parts.natewade.com/a/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/49239108__6027257/MT--CLUTCH/B13-100-03.html The clutch that is there right now is an Exedy clutch which I believe is the OEM manufacturer, just not subaru branded. I think they make flywheels too but I'm not sure if they make the dual mass for a Spec B.

3 year lease on a Kia Niro EV. Electric car leases are a really good deal, and will be about half the cost to own and operate than my Subaru. Look for EV lease deals and jump on one that's in stock near you. In this case it's $209 a month, plus extra for more miles since I drive a lot. I wasn't real excited about a Kia but thought "Oh whatever, I'll go look at it" and I was very surprised. It's comparable to a brand new outback in terms of quality, space, value, how it drives, etc, except it's electric and has 2" less ground clearance. It's also not AWD. But that's ok with me - it's worth it to go electric. Leasing will also encourage me to not spend all my money on mods. After the lease is up I'm getting an Aptera. (600 mile version with AWD and the offroad kit) The 3.0R was the best gas car I ever had, and I will always have fond memories of it. And the 6MT is the best transmission for sure. I highly recommend the swap if you're wanting to go that route.

Well, The 6MT H6 has sold to it's new owner. In other news, I took it through emissions. No issues and I don't think they even realized it was a manual swap. Which is good, since the ECU, exhaust, etc wasn't touched in the swap. They did an OBD2 check and visual inspection, and possibly a sniffer, I'm not sure. This is in Salt Lake County in Utah. In any case, it means we were 100% successful at swapping a USDM H6 3.0R 5EAT to an H6 3.0R 6MT with fully working emissions, cruise control, vdc, and ABS. And I'm off to my new electric wagon! Send me PMs and they'll end up in my email if it's important. I'll be around. I also get my inbox over on the Subaruoutback.org forum. Cheers to the future!

I saw a bunch of models when I looked... $100 a piece or so...

Yes - I think the general path seems to be do the mechanicals, then start troubleshooting the ECU and whatnot until everything works. Or just do a full swap of all the electrical stuff, cruise control clutch disengage switch, neutral start switch, etc. I have also heard different things from different people doing the same OBXT/LGT swap... One person does it this way and one person does it another way, and their cars may or may not be the same if it's an 05 vs an 07 vs an 09. Basically you may have to figure some stuff out and try some stuff to get it to work on your specific car. I definitely had to figure it out on my car... Also, do a search over on subaruoutback.org. There's a couple of OBXT swap threads over there that may have information.

Read through the entire massive 6MT master swap thread also - there's a lot of information in there. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/6mt-master-swap-thread-107137.html Also here's a DIY walkthrough. This is for the EZ30R 6MT swap - but the mechanicals are all the same for an LGT. Just ignore everything canbus and ecu related in that walkthrough. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ntiKh1Rs9RkUIdw0GFQQPNcwHSUsbam8Vc8odcRlcXU/edit?usp=sharing

For the wagon - See post #273 for the current list. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/roof-rack-systems-legacy-wagon-25336p19.html?t=25336&page=19&highlight=wagon+cross+bars

H6 is the most reliable by far - And I believe the 3.6R is a little better than the 3.0R and a little easier to work on. Also it's less picky on gas needs and has a better cooling system. The 3.0R tends to struggle with cooling a little bit.

Yep - 5x100 with a 56.1mm center bore. So basically any 5x100 subaru wheel. Wheels from other manufacturers don't generally work since they don't have the right center bore. These are basically all fair game: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2239019

That would explain things if you're stuck at 35%... In limp mode with no TCM my 3.0R would run to 100% throttle but just didn't have AVCS and felt super weak. I'm guessing the EJ25 is similar, but not necessarily the same. Is it any different in sport mode? (Ie: switch from drive to M and don't do anything) Tactrix is such a useful tool...

Do you have SI drive? It's limited to 80% or so in I mode... Shouldn't be an issue on an 05. Also, if it's in limp mode due to a CEL or anything like that, it feels pretty weak and AVCS doesn't work.

Actually 05-09 all have mostly the same CANBUS with respect to the TCM. It's just not accessible on the OBD2 port prior to 2008. It's still there, just less of it and it's more hidden. The Er HC codes I've heard are common with the these swaps. I would definitely try the manual ROM and manual/auto identifier pin first on that front. I'm not sure if there is more wiring between auto and manual for the EJ25. I haven't looked into it. If so, you'll probably have to start replacing or replicating wire harnesses, switches, etc. The cruise control is also probably looking for the clutch switch (so you can disable cruise when you push the clutch in).

Nice job! If you ever need to run the AT rom let me know - I'm running the AT rom on a 3.0R with a 6 speed manual. I just have an arduino pretending to be the TCM on CANBUS. Cruise and VDC work great. The 6 speed is fantastic isn't it? Cheers!

Also, I got lucky and was able to get the Yakima Whispbar S22 and K325 kits (From two different places that had new, in-box parts they were trying to clear out from years ago) They look nice, grab hard, but were expensive! Oh - and they're so quiet I literally can't hear them, even with the sunroof open. I don't know why the pictures are upside down - when I click on them they open right-side-up.

I know - it sucks. Took me a bunch of time too. See my previous post #273 higher on this page - This is probably your best/cheapest option right now as of june 2021. Mont Blanc (OEM), Now sold by Perrycraft. - $324 MB3747-B-02 https://www.perrycraft.com/product/a...-bars-includes PS: In Britain: Saloon = 4 door sedan. Estate = Wagon (4 door plus rear door)

Sooo - After adding a relay to reverse the polarity, I discovered I'd somehow mixed up the neutral and reverse switches. I swapped the two in my connector and removed the relay and it works perfectly. So what's left? Some canbus tuning in the arduino (Long term testing and some feedback changes), Cruise clutch cancel switch, and cleaning up the wiring/PCB TCM box.

You don't owe us anything but we sure do appreciate the knowledge. I don't have the level of computing power needed to run higher end 3D stuff - When I used Fluent it was through a university lab and the lab computers would share the workload between the active and inactive computers - That was 5 years ago and I'm long gone now... I'll see what I can get lined up on the 3d side of things - at least for overall models of things. Would this be an option? - $6 a run seems reasonable to me... https://cfd.direct/cloud/ https://cfd.direct/cloud/cost/

Alright well... I guess I'm learning openfoam if my home computer can handle it. Hopefully it's close to Ansys Fluent... So awfulwaffle was only using 2d sketches generated from a picture, no CAD models, right? Do we have any cad models in any format we can try? I guess the end goal is a library of .STL or .Step files, correct?

Awesome work you all! Any chance you guys could do a ride height study? Ie: Stock legacy vs 2" lowered vs 2.6" lifted? Mostly interested in 2.6" lifted since that's stock Outback height.

What part of the world are you in? In the US, a US domestic market 2003 legacy is the previous generation and probably won't fit your USDM 05. You need a 2005-2007 Legacy Wagon. https://row52.com/Search/?YMMorVin=YMM&Year=2005-2007&V1=&V2=&V3=&V4=&V5=&V6=&V7=&V8=&V9=&V10=&V11=&V12=&V13=&V14=&V15=&V16=&V17=&ZipCode=&Page=1&ModelId=4158&MakeId=226&LocationId=&IsVin=false&Distance=50

Well I'm 6000 miles past my swap and its fantastic. Still wrapping up odds and ends... No difference on the throttle overrun but it's so minor I'm living with it for the time being until two others finish their swaps and start chipping away at it too - It's pretty minimal if you release the gas a tad before shifting. Has anyone run into a normally closed reverse switch on your JDM 6MT? I have a TY856WVDBD (07 JDM Legacy 3.0R spec B 6 speed) and apparently the reverse switch is open in reverse and closed in all other gears - So my reverse lights would be off in reverse and on the rest of the time. Any ideas before I add a relay to reverse it? I thought they were all Normally Open. Thanks!

Yep - The AT ECU appears to "catch" the throttle a little earlier around 20% and not allow throttle to drop the rest of the way quite as fast as the genuine MT subaru ECU for the 3.0R. Otherwise we can't really tell a difference. And the AT has the same throttle hold above 2 mph. It's mapped in the rom and can be changed as desired. - See attached pictures.