5EAT - Park -> Drive, very slow to "shift" ?

Does anyone else have this issue?

 

If I first start up my car after not driving it for a day or two, there's a long pause (2-3 seconds) after I shift it from Park -> Drive before it "clunks" into gear.

 

After I drive it, park, and come back out to it, it seems fine. Typically only happens after I haven't driven it for 1day+.

 

Shifts seem perfectly fine between 1->2, 2->3, etc.

 

Normal?

 

'05, 30k miles 5EAT, about to do 30k service.

Yep i have had that issue since day one. So unless someone has a fix for this all i can say is that its one of those perks of having a 5eat

it's called Valve Body modification.

See i didn't know that vb mod does improves that particular problem. I just thought it would shift quicker for the regular gears. Thx for the info ak.

The VB mod is way too expensive IMO. If I was going through all that trouble I would have just bought a manual.

 

Good to know this seems to be a common issue though, and not just my car.

is this something that happens with age or mileage? I havent really noticed it? Maybe I'm just slow when I get going fro the 1st time

Not sure... korpse just mentioned his was like that since he bought it. My car has 30k on it (bought it used), and has always been like that.

huh, 45k miles here, so I guess that rules that out. I cant say its cos your last owner beat on it either cos I have mine in the past.

I bought mine with 31k miles on it, i am now at 44k. It is slow when you go from reverse to drive, or park to drive(since you have to pass through reverse to get to drive its the same thing), it takes its sweet time to engage 1st gear. Nothing has changed it and i don't have the vb mod but have been considering it.

 

My current mods to the tranny are:

4454 trucool tranny cooler

Rallitek 5eat poly bushing street/comfort setting.

Also Just did flush however have not done the bg flush since my dealer refused to do it since they think it might damage our 5eats, i do recall some members do the bg flush though.

also, are you letting the car warm up before you just slap it into drive and go? that may also be your problem. Need to let the car warm up and get those fluids running.

Oh i definitely do but no dice on the change of shifting, its just from going to park to 1st gear though so its no biggie to me.

wierd. I know when I would switch from Reverse to Drive, it could be a little sluggish and clunk into gear. but I believe that's just normal.

maybe its temp or something? i never warm up my car even in winter (I dont trust my neighbors with a running car with the doors unlocked and the garage door open with no one around.) and the only thing I get as far as weird in the tranny is when its really cold the shifts are VERY VERY hard until it warms up. The shifts are like hitting a brick wall.. I've come to terms with it.

maybe its temp or something? i never warm up my car even in winter (I dont trust my neighbors with a running car with the doors unlocked and the garage door open with no one around.) and the only thing I get as far as weird in the tranny is when its really cold the shifts are VERY VERY hard until it warms up. The shifts are like hitting a brick wall.. I've come to terms with it.

 

Not likely temperature... my car has been doing this in 60-80deg weather.

the first shift in the morning from 1-2 feels like crapola but my reverse to drive feels fine. after the initial first shift its fine. i have about 64k miles

Does anyone else have this issue?

 

If I first start up my car after not driving it for a day or two, there's a long pause (2-3 seconds) after I shift it from Park -> Drive before it "clunks" into gear.

 

After I drive it, park, and come back out to it, it seems fine. Typically only happens after I haven't driven it for 1day+.

 

Shifts seem perfectly fine between 1->2, 2->3, etc.

 

Normal?

 

'05, 30k miles 5EAT, about to do 30k service.

 

Part of the 30k service is changing the 5EAT's fluid. This can only be done properly with a flush. Make certain the person doing the flush uses the very 5EAT specific fluid. Personally, I think 30k is too long an interval with this transmission, but then I really use it. I'd recommend doing the change every 20k.

 

However, this may or may not correct your issue. A VB mod on the other hand, would. Since your plans do not include a VB mod I have one more suggestion; get your transmission's TCU reset.

 

The 5EAT's TCU can only be reset by someone with the proper instrument, like those a dealer has. It cannot be reset by disconnecting the battery. During the experience of my 5EAT's failure I went through this a couple of times when the TCU set some CEL codes I couldn't get rid of and the technician cleared the codes and in doing so reset the TCU. An odd hard shift I'd been experiencing went away after the reset. We won't talk about what happened later, but the point here is that AFTER the flush with new fluid a reset of the TCU will give it a fresh start on learning the now different conditions. Won't hurt, may even correct the behavior.

 

Our 5EAT transmission is an excellent one, and no one should tolerate less than it can provide in terms of smooth performance. My IPT 5EAT and its similarly built TC, while rebuilt to handle far more power, is a constant pleasure to drive. It is as smooth and predictable as it was the day I bought the car new. Over time, very tough times for the tranny , the original behavior began to include some of the negatives I see in this thread. Do not accept it, it's not right.

Bumping this.

 

For those with the slow shift - is the initial clunk much harder/louder than normal as well?

 

I'm deciding if I should take this to the dealer first ( still under warranty ), or get the 30k service done first.

 

Anyone know if they'll give me any trouble for being 1k over the service interval? (I bought it used w/ 30.5k miles on it or so)

Take it in for the 30K service and "Oh, by the way..."

Take it in for the 30K service and "Oh, by the way..."

 

Considered this, but really didn't want to pay dealer prices for the service.

since the beginning, i've noticed the p-d engagement is always accompanied by a slight 'drop' (that feels like) @ all 4 wheels -- its apparently harmless and a bit engaging in a quirky way, so i always kind of liked it.

i also noticed that on occasion, a clunk would occur simultaneously -- surely a less admirable foible.

as for why sometimes clunk, sometimes none: i've long since noticed that my usual old parking space was a few degrees inclined, and furthermore that any sort of incline invites and amplifies the clunk proportionally. i.e., little or no clunk on a flat surface, yet it can even be tough to get out of 'p' if on a more severe incline (p-brake not much help), and your clunk will assuredly be a duzy.

good thing i don't live in SF.

now the 2-3 second delay, that sounds a little off. after a few years and 10s of thousands of miles, it's still and always been a second or less for my 5eat to engage when the stick is dropped in.

since the beginning, i've noticed the p-d engagement is always accompanied by a slight 'drop' (that feels like) @ all 4 wheels -- its apparently harmless and a bit engaging in a quirky way, so i always kind of liked it.

i also noticed that on occasion, a clunk would occur simultaneously -- surely a less admirable foible.

as for why sometimes clunk, sometimes none: i've long since noticed that my usual old parking space was a few degrees inclined, and furthermore that any sort of incline invites and amplifies the clunk proportionally. i.e., little or no clunk on a flat surface, yet it can even be tough to get out of 'p' if on a more severe incline (p-brake not much help), and your clunk will assuredly be a duzy.

good thing i don't live in SF.

now the 2-3 second delay, that sounds a little off. after a few years and 10s of thousands of miles, it's still and always been a second or less for my 5eat to engage when the stick is dropped in.

 

I definitely park on a slight incline and thought this might be part of it.

 

I'm not sure about the 3 second delay... I'd have to actually time it... but I'd guess close to 2 seconds at least. I'll start it up today and try to time it.

It's normal, mine does the same thing. When it shifts into position you can feel the back lift up a bit, it's the most awesome thing ever It's like you're pre-arming the suspension on a drag car.

I should say I do not hear any sort of clunk whatsoever though. I'll test it again today and even time it, but no clunk and it's at most 2 seconds IF that to shift.

Here are the Diagnostic Tests for the 5EAT Automatic Transmission from Subaru Techical Information Systems.

 

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION(5AT) > Stall Test

INSPECTION

NOTE:

The stall test is of extreme importance in diagnosing the condition of automatic transmission and engine. It should be conducted to measure the engine stall speeds in “R” and “2nd of manual mode”.

Purposes of the stall test:

• To check the operation of automatic transmission clutch.

• To check the operation of torque converter clutch.

• To check engine performance.

 

1. Check that the throttle valve opens fully.

2. Check that the engine oil level is correct.

 

3. Check that the coolant level is correct.

 

4. Check that the ATF level is correct.

 

5. Check that the differential gear oil level is correct.

 

6. Raise the ATF temperature to 70 to 80°C (158 to 176°F) by driving a distance of 5 to 10 km (3 to 6 miles). Confirm the ATF temperature on Subaru Select Monitor. http://techinfo.subaru.com/diagnostics/2005/Legacy/contents/data/image/btn_link.gif

 

7. Place the wheel chocks at the front and rear of all wheels and apply the parking brake.

 

8. Move the manual linkage to ensure it operates properly, and then set “2nd on manual mode”.

http://techinfo.subaru.com/diagnostics/2005/Legacy/contents/data/grph_ent/at-01325.png

 

9. While depressing the brake pedal strongly, depress the accelerator pedal gradually.

 

10. When the engine speed is stabilized, quickly record that speed and release the accelerator pedal.

 

11. Shift the select lever to “N” range, and cool down the engine by idling it for more than one minute.

 

12. Perform the procedure for “R” range in the same way as “2nd on manual mode”.

 

NOTE:

• Do not continue the stall test for MORE THAN FIVE SECONDS at a time (from fully closed throttle to fully open throttle until stall speed reading). Engine oil and ATF to deteriorate and the clutch and brake to be adversely affected.

• Be sure to cool down the engine for at least one minute with the select lever set in “P” or “N” range and with the idle speed lower than 1,200 rpm after performing stall test.

• If the stall speed is higher than the specified range, attempt to finish the stall test in as short a time as possible, in order to prevent the automatic transmission from sustaining damage.

 

Stall speed (at sea level):

TURBO MODEL

3,100 — 3,500 rpm

 

NON-TURBO MODEL

2,400 — 2,800 rpm

 

 

Stall speed (at sea level): Less than standard

Stall speed (at sea level): More than standard

Stall speed (at sea level): Within standard

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION(5AT) > Time Lag Test

INSPECTION

NOTE:

When the select lever is shifted while the engine is idling, there will be a certain time elapse or lag before the shock can be felt. Using this, check the condition of forward brake, reverse brake, 1st one-way clutch, forward one-way clutch and 3rd one-way clutch.

• Perform the test at normal operation fluid temperature 70 — 80°C (158 — 176°F).

• Be sure to allow a one minute interval between tests.

• Make three measurements and take the average value.

 

 

1. Fully apply the parking brake.

 

2. Start the engine.

Check the idling speed (A/C OFF).

 

3. Shift the select lever from “N” to “D” range. Using a stop watch, measure the time-lag which takes from shifting the lever until the shock is felt.

Time-lag

Standard: 1.2 sec. or less

 

 

If “N” → “D” time-lag is longer than specified:

• Line pressure too low

• Forward brake worn

• One-way clutch not operating properly

 

 

4. In the same manner, measure the time lag for “N” → “R”.

Time-lag

Standard: 1.5 sec. or less

 

 

If “N” → “R” time lag is longer than specified:

• Line pressure too low

• Reverse brake worn

Awesome post MikeAldea - I'm going to try this out tonight (the time lag test ).

 

Any idea what that normal operating temperature is at? Do I need to let it warm up at idle for a while before I do it?

 

Currently, my car has been starting w/ the AC on, in 90* weather, on a slight incline. Obviously not the best combo

Basically drive it around the block a couple of times until the engine is at normal temp, that should bring the tranny up to temp too.

The first procedures are basically torque braking to make sure the stall speed is where it is supposed to be at. Nothing really groundbreaking except for the nice confirmation on paper of what the stall speed is supposed to be at and how long it is normal to take for the tranny to shift into D and R. I am definitely at the 1.2, 1.5 mark. As a matter of fact, I am below that since when I timed it without a watch all I got to was "one bana.." and it shifted.

 

What slightly concerns me are the "normal operation" conditions of the temperature range. I stuck a kitchen thermometer onto my transmission cooler and after driving it around in 90 degree weather, it registered 180*F, so a bit high. Maybe with no tranny cooler it may have been higher but this brings a question to mind that I will post in the transmission cooler thread. If the operating temperature of the coolant is higher, sitting at around 186 and sometimes going up to 200-210, wouldn't that bring up the temperature in the tranny cooler too, since it sits flush against it?