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Dome Light won't turn-off


praedet

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Any folks had a problem w/ their dome light? When mine is set to the "On w/ Open Doors" setting, it will not turn off till the battery dies :eek:

 

And before you ask, I have tried it in all 3 settings. It is either on indefinitely, or off...

 

Ted

:spin:
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Check to see if the gauge cluster indicates that a door is open. If so then you have a bum door pin switch. If they all are closed then you may have a fried BIU (body integrated unit).

 

You didn't try the dome lights on with door mod did you, if you did and didn't disconnect the battery you may have fried it.

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Just to be 100% sure I've got to ask a silly question. Have you tried locking the doors with it in the door position? Now that we've gotten the silly question out of the way it sounds like whatever handles the dim feature has gone sour.
Yep, tried it, that doesn't fix it ;)
Maybe one of the door ajar switches are stuck so the car always thinks a door is open. If not you may have a short to power somewhere in the "on w/ open doors" circuit. The switch could be bad too.
No door is "showing" open on the dash, so the short is somewhere after that...
Check to see if the gauge cluster indicates that a door is open. If so then you have a bum door pin switch. If they all are closed then you may have a fried BIU (body integrated unit).

 

You didn't try the dome lights on with door mod did you, if you did and didn't disconnect the battery you may have fried it.

I didn't try the dome light mod. How would I know if the BIU is fried? Nothing else is messed up... (The wagon hatch light works)

:spin:
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I had exactly the same problem... required replacement of the body control module to correct (under warranty, fortunately).
That would suck since I am out of warranty
Don't both the dome light and the cargo area light have switches on them?
yes, separate switches
:spin:
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  • 1 year later...

Here is a fix...

 

There is no delay on exit, but if you were to add timed relay between the wiring you could add that feature.

 

 

Ping 18,19,31 and 32 have the door triggers. Use a diode to isolate each of them (radioshack parts drawers). Put the mark on the diode TOWARDS the plug. The wire colors are white/red, yellow, blue/orange and blue/white. You aren't cutting these just tapping into them. This plug is towards the front of the body control unit (which is mounted on the steering coloumn, big black box, under the dash).

 

The 2nd connector I think is grey and the back of the body control unit. The wire is brown and at pin 3, you want to CUT this wire. Tape off the side going into the body control unit/plug. The side going into the car attach to the other end of each diode you ran to the door triggers.

 

If sucessful, any time a door is open (and the switch is in the door position) the dome light will come on. You will also still see on the instrument panel each door thats open (thats what the isolating with diodes does for you.)

 

 

 

 

 

Let me know how it works!

 

Chris

doorfix.jpg.55fd124b01f1fb3627e8a7b438d1a745.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Congrats on getting the selected for the PhD. Enjoy your time in Virginia.

 

As for time, not sure I have much more of that then you. I'm currently in my 3rd phase of pilot training and am learning to fly helicopters. :D

 

Good luck at VT.

The Ridiculousness is no more :( But you can have your very own piece of it. **The Ridiculous Part Out.** :D
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  • 3 months later...

Alright I built up the fix as chris wrote it. It works as stated and was pretty simple to put in.

 

Before taking apart the car I built up some wiring per the diagram. Basically a 6 inch length of wire soldered to 4, 2 inch segments, then to those 4 diodes in the appropriate direction and finally 4 more 2 inch segments to each diode. The first pic is of my wiring setup.

 

For the install:

1. Remove the two panels in the driver's foot well

2. Identify the body integrated unit (big black box under the steering column)

3. Pull out the grey plug (i84) and the white plug closest to the driver (B280) on the left side of the box

4. Identify the four wires on the grey plug and the one on the white

5. I used four squeeze connectors from RadioShack to tap in to the door signal wires and connect my wiring

6. Cut the brown wire, tape off the part still connected to the white plug and solder the other end to the single wire of your diode harness

7. Wrap everything up how you'd like it, plug it back in and test out your doors before putting it all back together

IMG_2410small.thumb.jpg.88a01c6d99c3c386c1b7550769ac9f01.jpg

IMG_2408small.thumb.jpg.48c3af279b59f4749b36810085828669.jpg

IMG_2409small.thumb.jpg.2826a8e0ce646951ed30996f0d40911e.jpg

IMG_2412small.thumb.jpg.ed2449f95b93e885bd741bad032b87e7.jpg

IMG_2414small.thumb.jpg.5e95783b952960ccb43810c7d3ad74ce.jpg

The Ridiculousness is no more :( But you can have your very own piece of it. **The Ridiculous Part Out.** :D
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lol only burnt myself once with the soldering iron. :D

 

Oh and make sure you use large enough diodes otherwise they'll burn out under the continuous load of an open door. I went with 1k volt diodes from RadioShack. Probably overkill but they don't heat up with an open door so I don't think I'll have to replace them anytime soon. After building up the wiring, it only took like 15 minutes to install.

The Ridiculousness is no more :( But you can have your very own piece of it. **The Ridiculous Part Out.** :D
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