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LGT HID retro started - first pics inside


blue dragon

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Our '05 Legacy GT has H7 projectors, so I don't need to swap projectors, just use unmodded D2s bulbs with an H7 adapter.

 

This is what the adapter looks installed on the bulb

 

http://www.wardphotography.net/hid/IMG_1364.JPG

 

You have to cut the base of the bulb to match the adapter

 

http://www.wardphotography.net/hid/IMG_1363.JPG

 

In my case, the notch where the bulb fits into the socket is on the side, so I had to match it up

 

http://www.wardphotography.net/hid/IMG_1365.JPG

 

As you can see, the HID bulb and the H7 bulb have the same focal point

 

http://www.wardphotography.net/hid/IMG_1366.JPG

 

I tested out one bulb in the housing and that sucker puts out some crazy light. It was a pain in the ass to do, because I had to move the water bottle out of the way on the driver's side. On the passenger's side, I have to remove the ducting for the air intake just to get at the back of the headlight housing. Look for more pics as soon as I get a decent harness put together and I get them installed.

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Philips D2S bulbs (which they look like) only come in three ratings.

 

* 85122 4300K 3200lm - these are the only bulbs currently used in OEM HID systems - color variance results from housing optics (possibly Osram equivalent 66050 bulbs)

 

* 85122CM (aka 85122+) 5000K (?)lm- these are meant to be used by dealers to replace a burned out HID bulb and are a higher Kelvin rating so as to Color Match (hence the CM) the remaining headlight. HIDs will color shift over time, and 5000K was a good point to go with so that there wasn't a huge difference between old and new bulbs - that way MB owners don't have a fit over 'mismatched' bulbs.

 

 

"Xenon HID ColorMatch

Over the lifetime of a Xenon gas discharge bulb, the color becomes more and more blue. Xenon bulbs have a significant life span meaning that the only time that the bulb is replaced is when it fails. To avoid a difference between a mature Xenon bulb and its replacement, Philips created Xenon HID ColorMatch. Xenon HID ColorMatch bulbs have the same color appearance as mature Xenon gas discharge bulbs – those of a more intense blue - meaning that car owners now replace only one Xenon HID lamp without upsetting the appearance and design of the car"

 

* Ultinon 6000K 2400lm - as with all higher Kelvin ratings, you can see the light output decreases. These are typically not available in the US and are labelled not for on road use.

 

Other OEM HID bulbs available are typically either GE or Osram Sylvania, but Phillips are most likely what you're getting.

 

Blue dragon, which did you get and whats your source. The only problem with going this route is that the bulbs themselves can run as much as a cheap retro kit.

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^^ I am using stock 4300 K bulbs, thats the only way to do it. None of this ricer 6000k crap. The bulbs from ebay are about $70/pair, you can get bulbs, ballasts and H7 adapter rings for less than $250 US if you look hard enough ;)
That's what I wanted to hear! Good luck man. :cool:
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Agreed - 4300K is the only way to go...

In fact, I just found/purchased a set about that. Now to find all the other components.

 

Which ballasts are you going with? I'm thinking the Philips set to match, not too keen on the Gen IV Hella setups.

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So a little more investigation...

The LCL (Light Center Length) of a H7 Bulb is (0.98in) 25.0mm, LCL of a D2S/D2R is 27.0 (1.06in).

 

Because I hate making statements without backing them up with good research...

Here is GE's specifications on every lightbulb they make including the standards definitions of the bulb type. http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/catalogs/lamp_catalog/downloads/cat_mini_sealed.pdf

 

That said. If the LCL of the the D2S is ~2.0 mm longer than the H7 LCL, shouldn't the adapter plate be 2 mm and placed on the inside of the D2S bulb to bring the focal point closer to the rear of the housing? This adapter you have may make it easier to sit the bulb physically in the housing but it does not put it in the right position.

 

I'm going to do a little more investigation and see if I'm the only one that thinks this way. Because so far every H7 Adapter plate I've seen has been shown on the outside, but that just doesn't make good mathematical sense.

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Ha - I knew it, I'm not crazy.

I just found this - http://www.knology.net/~lwilley/homepage/Workshop/hidinstall_p1.html

The adapter used here looks different from the others and simulates the top of an H7 bulb so that it pushes the LCL back and sits in the H7 mounting points from the front. Another difference is that the plate must be attached to the bulb. Perhaps the best bet would be to use both the front and rear rings so that by the front ring, the LCL is corrected and is seated in the correct holes, while the rear ring would provide a proper point for the retainer clip. Perhaps the rear ring is not needed at all.

 

I am going to try to email this guy and see where he got these rings and ask if he will measure their thickness.

 

Blue, would you mind measuring the thickness of your ring and attempt to place it on the front of the lamp? Maybe even take a pic of it?

 

I will report back with my findings as they develop.

 

oh and I know, hahaha, all this rather than just buying an H7 rebased kit. Just seems like a better more OEM style solution. This way I know I'm buying genuine Philips bulbs and ballasts and appropriate wiring rather than who knows what quality kits.

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^^ Are you sure the light centre length is where the flament is located? You can see that the filament in the H7 bulb and the capsule line up when you have the bulbs side by side. In my pic, the H7 bulb is a little forward because that the only way that I could get it to stay in that position for the picture.

 

I tested one of the bulbs in the housings, and the cutoff was sharp, and there was a blue line at the cutoff, right at the flare, just like any OEM HID projector with a D2S bulb

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Its raining, so I haven't gotten a chance to take the camera outside to get some cut off pics. Here is one from my garage with the headlights shining across the street

 

http://www.wardphotography.com/hid/noncrop.jpg

 

Here is a magnified view of the garage door of the house one over, you can clearly see the blue line at the cut off. Its this line that gives the blue flicker that you see when an Audi, or BMW drives towards you.

 

http://www.wardphotography.com/hid/crop.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the head light itself

 

http://www.wardphotography.com/hid/IMG_5038.jpg

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Looking good!!!

 

Got any details on the wiring harness you used?

 

I went ahead and ordered the bulbs and the adapter rings, I figure I'll give it a shot, now to source the ballasts and harness.

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The wiring harness is simple. The lights draw the power off the battery (ensure that you have a fuse within 12 inches of the battery (+) terminal). This goes to a 30 amp relay. The relay is activated by the power from the stock harness. The out put of the relay goes to the ballasts, which then go to the headlights. The output of the relay is split (and each side is fused with a 20A fuse).

 

The stock covers had to be cut ( I ordered replacements just incase I want to go back to stock), so as to fit the D2 connector onto the d2s bulb. My ballast came with a rubber grommet 1 3/4 inches in diameter, so I used a hole saw of the same dimension to cut a hole in the stock covers. After the cover was put on, the rubber grommet was used to plug the hole, while still allowing the wire from the ballast to pass through.

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Did you assemble this yourself? I was just going to pick up this one

 

http://www.xenondepot.com/product.php?product_id=50

 

since it apparently has connectors specific to mate to the H7 harness. But otherwise, it is the same design principle.

 

headlight Signal

relay → Ballast → Bulb

battery power

 

Diagrams or pictures of your harness? Does it go from one relay to the two Ballasts or are you using a harness for each bulb/balast?

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I don't have pics of the harness, I just made it myself, but I am only using one relay. You can use 2 relays if you want to get fancy. That harness from Xenon depot should work, if you do order from them, say hello to Asaf. They are based out of Toronto, and I know the owner personally.
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