quick4dr Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 I tried buying the Rear Megan Racing Camber kit from import image. It came damaged all the paint was pealing off and chipped up, sent them back and was shipped another set, they too were chipped and disgusting. Import image ending up refunding me after fighting with them, because Megan blamed it on fed ex. Mean while the packaging from Megan was thin and shoty and I bet every set of their camber arms are shipped out with the damage. Looking at Whiteline bushings to take care of my rear camber, any other options available? I heard from Justin at Built Not Bought Auto that Grimmspeed is in development of rear camber arms, but long time away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 If you just want a bit of camber adjustment the WL bushings work. If you have the $ I'd HIGHLY suggest the WL lateral link kit though, they are awesome (all 4). WL is an absolute pleasure to work with, they will certainly take care of you if anything ever goes wrong. They replaced one of my links for free after my car was in an accident and one of them bent. It was an accident 100% not their fault, and not poor construction either, my wagon rolled over and the lateral load that bent the arm would have bent any part. I called them with credit card in hand just to order a new one, they said don't worry about it. That's when I became a loyal WL customer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 I run the Whiteline bars already I have the longer one, havn't been able to source the shorter bar. Im looking to go from my current -1.5 to -.8 or so I rolled my fenders and can fit the tires with less camber. I'm dropped on kwv2 1.5in around and just want to flatten my tread out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Whiteline is great with suspension parts. I have nearly everything they sell for bushings including the rear lateral links. Great stuff! Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I run the Whiteline bars already I have the longer one, havn't been able to source the shorter bar. Im looking to go from my current -1.5 to -.8 or so I rolled my fenders and can fit the tires with less camber. I'm dropped on kwv2 1.5in around and just want to flatten my tread out going to -.8 in teh back is within the oem specs. you dont need any custom parts to make that happen. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Personally I'd keep about -1.0-1.5 in the rear. Depends on what you do with the car I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 He kind of does, "I'm dropped on kwv2 1.5in " That is unless he raises it back up. going to -.8 in teh back is within the oem specs. you dont need any custom parts to make that happen. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 He kind of does, "I'm dropped on kwv2 1.5in " That is unless he raises it back up. Huh? being dropped on KWv2 doesnt mean the camber changed. Swapping out the rear suspension bits is usually done to add more negative camber, not bring it closer to OEM specs (less negative camber) Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 It does, relative to how much he lowered it. People do both, they add suspension bits to bring it closer to OEM and if racing to add more. With the oem adj bolts he may get that -1.5 back to around -1 max unless he either raises it a little or adds a Whiteline/Megan/Perrin control arm. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Ok, that makes sense. When mine was dropped (more than that), I was adding more camber for handling. So I didnt care. That's what I get for guessing about someone else's setup. :-P Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 I like my ride height, any lower and my local streets would eat me alive. Trying to flatten my camber out to see the handling difference. I plan to soon run 255's instead of 235 so im going to need adjustability to keep more tread usable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 running 255's with less than 1 deg negative camber will a little tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I like my ride height, any lower and my local streets would eat me alive. Trying to flatten my camber out to see the handling difference. I plan to soon run 255's instead of 235 so im going to need adjustability to keep more tread usable. flatten your camber to see handling difference? run 255 instead of 235 and want adjustability to keep more tread usable? Camber helps you use more tire when cornering. If you are not using all the tire on a 235, then putting a 255 will use even less tire. Then again, you'll get twice the wear life out of the tires if you swap them on the rim (inside to outside). I do this for track tires as the wear from the camber causes the inside edge to wear quicker. 255 will require fender mods depending on your suspension stiffness (not enough and you'll bottom out cutting the tires). If you really want to make the tires stand flat (at least in static mode), you'll probably have to push the top out, as there is not much room to pull the bottom in. As you push the top out, you'll be more likely to have tire/fender contact when moving. This seems like a folly, however, its your car and money. Flattening out the tire in static mode will lead positive camber while moving which will have a negative effect on your driving. Unless you craft a custom suspension that allows you to adjust the camber depending on your car's attitude. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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