exclucid Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 So I was power breaking pun intended.. as described when something gave and my rear wheel broke free and started spinning out. Shocking cause this is an awd drive car. I immediately hit the breaks and wait till the light turned green and started off with a cachunk as the car went into gear and the car started to go forward. Went smoothly for a couple of moments till I hit around 40mph, then the rpms would spin and the transmission would slip or disengage, then after the speed fell below 40mph, the transmission reengaged with a cachunk. It shifts smoothly after it cachunks, and it cachunks as it goes into reverse as well. I know the front passenger side cv axle broke at he wheel, but it destroyed the boot near at the transfer case. So the axle is free spinning since its not attached at the wheel and there is no LSD. I think the cachunk is from the center diff engaging the rear axle when it senses slip from the free spinning axle. My question is... does anyone know if the transmission goes into limp mode giving the impression of transmission slip above 40mph.... and its exactly at 40mph every time. Any help before I start taking things apart. I have no experience with transmission stuff. I will post the pic of the blown cv boot and axle later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
car_cursed Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 So I was power breaking pun intended.. as described when something gave and my rear wheel broke free and started spinning out. Shocking cause this is an awd drive car. I immediately hit the breaks and wait till the light turned green and started off with a cachunk as the car went into gear and the car started to go forward. Went smoothly for a couple of moments till I hit around 40mph, then the rpms would spin and the transmission would slip or disengage, then after the speed fell below 40mph, the transmission reengaged with a cachunk. It shifts smoothly after it cachunks, and it cachunks as it goes into reverse as well. I know the front passenger side cv axle broke at he wheel, but it destroyed the boot near at the transfer case. So the axle is free spinning since its not attached at the wheel and there is no LSD. I think the cachunk is from the center diff engaging the rear axle when it senses slip from the free spinning axle. My question is... does anyone know if the transmission goes into limp mode giving the impression of transmission slip above 40mph.... and its exactly at 40mph every time. Any help before I start taking things apart. I have no experience with transmission stuff. I will post the pic of the blown cv boot and axle later Replace the axle, see if the noise persists.. If it does you toasted at least one of your differentials. Stop driving like an asshat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
car_cursed Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Also Braking not breaking, though you did both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Also Braking not breaking, though you did both. He said pun intended you pedant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 LOL power braking. Fix and learn to drive properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exclucid Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Fixed!! it was only the cv joint. New one installed and cleared CEL's and all is back to wonderfull. Please forgive me dear subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerseyglock Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Upgrade your CV axles, if you like power brake take offs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zander916 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Is it Power Braking in general that does this? I'm pretty new to owning a fourth gen LGT but I had heard it's okay if you don't rev much beyond 2k rpm. The car is stock which I don't plan to change and I don't plan on power braking. If so, certainly few and far between. Just curious about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exclucid Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 So when I did this I scoured the internet and have never heard of this happening, so I would say this does not happen in general. My car does have 113000 miles on it and a stage 1. The owners manual says powerbraking is ok as long as its for no longer than 5 seconds so as not to overheat the transmission, which is when damage may occur. It is for this reason I will not go stage 2 without upgrading the transmission. My transmission shows no signs of slipping or bad shifts, but it is my daily driver. I just lost my head for a little bit and decided to see what the car would do. I don't recommend powerbraking at all in a daily driver, and not if you don't have a transmission cooler installed, an upgrade that is on my list. I totally recommend some upgrades... they are cheap to do if you like diy, and very rewarding on this car. A stock legacy gt has some very real free horsepower under the hood. My favorite upgrade and diy for the legacy gt especially if you have an automatic is the TGV deletes, but you will have to get an e-tune or leave the electronics hooked up just remove the plates, which is a bit harder to do. Auto legacy can be very fun to drive with a few little things... do some research. Powerbreaking out of principle shouldn't be done on your daily driver, however I have read some claims of some drivers doing it as many as 30 times consecutively with stage 1 tune.... don't know if they had a transmission cooler. This is the same transmission as is found in the Nissan Titan and Auto 350z, so its not a question of the transmission can take it.. but more of a heat issue. My car as it is will break all 4 wheels loose in a tight turn, and I don't worry about that at all... its not much of a heat creating manuever when it comes to the transmission. CV axles don't really break like that... I'm just lucky. I will not be powerbraking my car until I have it paid off and a second to drive just in case. This is merely out of principle. This violent breakage of the cv joint at 4000rpm powerbrake did not damage the transmission at all. It happend to be over a 100 degrees outside as well when I did it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Is it Power Braking in general that does this? I'm pretty new to owning a fourth gen LGT but I had heard it's okay if you don't rev much beyond 2k rpm. The car is stock which I don't plan to change and I don't plan on power braking. If so, certainly few and far between. Just curious about it. Power braking is the way you launch an automatic car. It's pretty pointless unless you're at the drag strip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zander916 Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Power braking is the way you launch an automatic car. It's pretty pointless unless you're at the drag strip. Oh yeah. I knew that much. It's just a learning curve all over again to find out the cars weaknesses, strengths etc. My last car was an 08 Cobalt SS turbo. Drive-train was never much of an issue on that being FWD. It just spun 'em. I don't plan to do it but I'd hate to do it once and "Awwwww shit. It's broke." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiestang Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 free horsepower I like free. Any other suggestions other than the tgv's? I'm also a stg1 auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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