iNVAR Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Smack me I'm multi tasking here and I'm already a horrible speller Talking about coming to a final stop after your tracking laps. Then 20-30 feet is not enough. 20-30 feet isn't going to prevent the pads from contacting the rotors completely. It'll help and is surely better than nothing at all but still, don't rely on just that. They need to be cooled off properly. Once it reaches an okay temperature, the pads can touch the rotors just fine and not start leaving deposits. I will be getting one of these. You won't be disappointed. Just a bit annoyed by the installation process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Then 20-30 feet is not enough. 20-30 feet isn't going to prevent the pads from contacting the rotors completely. It'll help and is surely better than nothing at all but still, don't rely on just that. They need to be cooled off properly. Once it reaches an okay temperature, the pads can touch the rotors just fine and not start leaving deposits. You won't be disappointed. Just a bit annoyed by the installation process. Hard pressed to do much better considering my cars all have floating calipers that drag on the rotor slightly. I saw the install, looks reasonable. I have big hands though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Yeah, and I have small hands and it was still annoying to do so keep that in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCwagon Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 I bought the DBA 4000 rotors for the rear (I have StopTech brakes in the front) because I thought the finish would hold up, and what the hell, the rotors looked pretty. The rotors began rusting within a year. Next time I need rear rotors, I am buying the no-holes, no-slots, centric rotors. IMHO brakes are fairly straightforward: 1) Buy Good Pads - generally a balance between dusting and stopping power. I am running Hawk HPS - some people like them, some don't. The rear brakes do much less of the work, so keep that in mind. 2) Go Stainless lines - it will considerably firm up the feeling of the brakes, especially replacing the fronts. 3) Properly bleed your brakes - there are a few good write-ups on this. Cars equiped with Anti-lock brakes are more challenging to bleed correctly. 4) Consider a Master Cylinder brace - I do not have one, but the reviews are very positive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volodyalysak Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 1) Resurfacing rotors removes material. If the original rotors were messed up due to the pads being overheated and leaving deposits on them, resurfacing MAY remove the pad deposits, IF you cut deeply enough, but consequently, you've reduced the heat capacity of the rotors, increasing the likelihood that the overheating problem will reoccur and you'll leave deposits again. 2) If a mechanic doesn't cut enough material away, the vibration will just happen again even if the surface appears smooth. Read my link above and look at the section about cementite. 3) Blanks are cheap... in some cases not that much more expensive than resurfacing. Given (1) and (2) before, you might as well replace. Yep #2 is what exactly happened, resurfacing only mellowed down the vibrations. I will get some centric rotors and new pads and be done with it. Also what about KONI ? Is there alternative to get to be better than stock, but cheapper than KONI ?? Well i have around 1K budget for rotors + struts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.