johnegg Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 did you clean them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Yes but several of them wouldn't pump up no matter what I did. I replaced them with aftermarket ones, I figure if they fail it wouldn't be too bad to replace them later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 they are several dollars each, i cant' really remember. but for the price of used you could probably buy twice what you need, find good ones in the bunch and still come out ahead. they used them 90 - 96 in the ej22 engines so there are lots of them around. how many do you think you need? ouch, new is expensive. from http://www.subarugeniueparts.com plus shipping. ADJUSTER CP VALVE LASH Make: Subaru | Part#: 13230AA110List Price: $27.73 Your Price: $20.30 Quantity: http://www.partswebsite.com/images/buynow.gifhttp://www.partswebsite.com/images/add2cart.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 Only one of the left hand (reg. driver's) side was working, so I bit the bullet and bought them. I've run into a huge problem though, I have no idea what is supposed to go on the back side of the left head covering the camshaft. The right side has the little V-shaped cover, and I see that my 94 has what looks like a plastic seal but no cover like the other side. What is supposed to go there to cover up the cam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 It would appear that I need that plug http://www.justanswer.com/subaru/6o4uw-subaru-legacy-l-1996-subaru-legacy-ej22.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Update: Finally got the plug and put everything back together. It runs great! I only ran it for about 5 seconds though. Except I switched the heads. Before I assembled the heads I noticed that the only apparent difference was the hole on one was threaded. I now know that those threads are for the brass pipe to the EGR valve. Whoops! Looks like I'll be doing it all over again... tough lesson to learn. I hope this is the source of the massive oil leak coming from the R side (where the threaded hole is now facing forwards). I have smoke coming from somewhere on the L side, I can't figure out where. Either somewhere around the transmission or through the valve cover. Either way it's very concerning and I'm not running it again until I figure out what's going on. There is trans fluid around that side from a hose I forgot to tighten. So, overall, a bit embarrassing and a bit more work but maybe someone will read this and avoid the same mistake! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 in case this has not been covered, there is a ''cam cap'' on the rear of the passenger side head. and it has an o-ring that often is over looked. i have never heard of it being a ''massive'' oil leak, but who knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 I got the cap and it's just fine. The leak is coming from either the cam or the EGR hole on the front R head. I can see the oil coming from between the head and the timing cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 The leak is coming from either the cam or the EGR hole on the front R head.the EGR hole is tapped into the exhaust port on the head, so that should not be it. it certainly could be the cam seal. when you set them they should not be set deep. just flush with the service i think. when / if you re-locate the heads check the cam shaft for scratch marks. pull the right cam timing cover and see if the oil is coming from behind the sprocket. if no, it is probably coming from the oil pump / crank seal. i had a 95 that popped out a right side cam seal. i didn't do the timing belt job so i'm not sure if it had been replaced but i think i was. so it was probably 40k old. i have no idea why it did it other than age. but i replaced the pcv and the hoses around it just in case. swapping the heads is going to be a pain. you will have to replace the the cam seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 Cam seal did it, car is running great now. The only things to fix now are a huge exhaust leak (90% of it is at the heads but the rest is at the next joint down- it leaked a little before anyway) and an oil leak... it's the freakin' dipstick, lol. Advice for anyone doing this for the first time: put on the dipstick before you put on your intake manifold and AC. thanks again to everyone who helped me get my car back into working order Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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