CDubbs Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Has anyone had to replace this? Fred Beans says $155 for the part, dealer quotes a minimum of $350 for labor. Any way to hotwire it? Install remote start and forget about it since the key just needs to be in the On position? Looking for some feedback. Stuck at work with a fully functional car that I can't start. Thanks in advance, -Chris No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDubbs Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 If I just replace the tumbler portion with a new one including keys, should I only have to pay for the electrical ignition switch to be programmed for the new key? I assume the electrical switch isn't matched to the tumbler portion itself in any way... The actual problem is lack of spring pressure from the "on" position to the "start" position. The cylinder turns and unlocks the wheel/trans without issue. No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDubbs Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Adding Pics of new part in case anyone is curious. It's clear that the brass type mounting ring has two of the security screws that break off when you install the part. They are loose so I can remove them by hand. I assume the two threaded holes with the raised corners viewable with the electrical connector facing up are where the ones on the vehicle will be. I believe the coil is to read the "chip" in the key. Unfortunately this doesn't appear to include the actual electrical piece that the chip is keyed to. Does anyone know if this is correct? Meaning will my car be immobile until programmed for the new key? No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDubbs Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Bumped with pics of new part. No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDubbs Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Ended up taking to a dealer. If anyone is curious, the part is about $150 and about 2 hours labor. Dealer quoted $650 to add OEM remote start. I asked if they could eliminate the majority of the labor since they will have the steering column out and they will get back to me. No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDubbs Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 Additional information incase anyone comes to this in a search: Total bill was $670 from the dealer. $250 Parts $250 Labor $30 Shop supplies $70 Re-key to use existing keys End result is the new cylinder seems "notchy" presumably due to the key being slightly worn and the lock being new. Since the ignition was stuck in the "On" position, the battery drained completely. When I picked up the car, the service department was closed, and there was Er IU on the trip odometer. Cruise control would not turn on. No CE light or codes. Reset ECU, error didn't clear. Disconnected battery positive terminal Depressed brake for 10 seconds Reconnected battery positive terminal Turned ignition switch to ON for 30 seconds, letting the BIU fully boot (according to another article) No error, cruise works. Cancelled the appointment and left a message for the service manager with the fix (he hadn't seen this trip odometer error code before). Alternate search terms: ER1U, ERIU, ER 1U, ER IU, Ignition lock, key stuck, won't start battery good No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neurosis Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Old thread, but google brought me here. I just had this part break on my 05 LGT - the switch was stuck on accessory and the key turned loosely. Upon disassembly, it appears that the little cross-shaped tab that actuates the switch was sheared / broken. My car is still in the shop and I have yet to get the final bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec chode Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Just happened to me as well, awesome stuff. Usually the er hc code is because your test plug is connected. Green one under the glove box. Does anyone know if you can key these cars? Like not replace the whole assembly just the cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 So this has just happened to me, key spins freely between the ON/START all the way to OFF but the car is stuck in the ON position basically, what do I really need to replace here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neurosis Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 New ignition cylinder assembly, new keys and a local guy was able to reprogram the keys without a trip to the dealership. If I'm remembering correctly the switch itself was fine, once the sheared off actuator was removed. By far the least exciting repair I've had to do to this car, and now I've got separate keys for the door and keys for ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Does anyone know if the chip receiver is in the lock cylinder assembly? I have a remote starter on the car and need the new cylinder to have same chip reader. The only way I can start the car now is with the remote starter, and even then it takes 5-6 times to fire off sometimes. New starter, new battery, 185k on the car, so I'm assuming the cylinder is just busted due to age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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