BassAdd1ct Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 ok cool.. yea my daewoo is developing issues.... we didnt replace the plate but it wasnt leaking any oil.. just coolant once we filled it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Wow pretty lucky it wasn't leaking, both of my legacies were, well one still is but when that motor comes out it is getting replaced first. Is the one you have in there metal or plastic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 I decided I wasn't going to do the headgaskets on mine yet since I have that other motor..I just did all the seals except rear main and separator 8 months before I replaced it, I'm doing those in it next week though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAdd1ct Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 its metal... got a new water pump.. pulled the old one off and it didnt have in sealant on it at all.. like i undid all the bolts and it fell off.. lucky i was holding it.. so i put the new on properly and sealed it properly.. just waiting to the sealing to dry up a little before putting coolant in.. also how much oil am i meant to put in?.. coz it took just under 5 litres before it was full on the dipstick :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Cool the stamped steel ones are the last revision, probably never have to replace it again. If you have a brown rear main seal that means its probably been replaced as well. If your talking about motor oil its 4 .1 quarts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAdd1ct Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 yea rear main seal was brown.. ok so should i drain a little bit then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Park it level, let it run for about 4 minutes, turn it off and let it sit and drain back into the pan and check it a few times, if your going to put the atf in it like snederheiser said you will want to displace the half quart of atf with the motor oil...if you don't you may blow the oil pump main seal or rear main seal, they have the most pressure on them under load or running conditions. Â So in short yeah drain about half quart before you put the half quart of atf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 I think I posted to the wrong thread, your hla's sound ok after the fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAdd1ct Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 hla's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Oh..the hydraulic lash adjusters, totally wrong thread, my bad...but they are what pushes your valves into the combustion chamber. They make a ticking sound when they have varnished from oil and gasses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 I don't know how I switched pages on the topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAdd1ct Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 ohh haha.. well the car is finally running with NO leaks.. just noisy from the hla's then.. coming from drivers side only.. should i pull the whole assembly out and put oil in them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Well actually the post I referred to earlier was a trick to clean those a bit and the ticking should cease...it makes sense to me, I just never would have thought of it. Said to use about half of a quart of atf in your motor oil 500 miles prior to a next oil change, the tick will disappear and the atf helps that because of the cleaning properties it has. Unfortunately the hla's are not serviceable or adjustable...if they are bad they need to be replaced and I bet a ton easier replaced while the motor is out of the car. At least the hla's are easy to come by and pretty cheap at like $9-10 bucks a piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 I was saying that you should not just add it and take off, it would probably be better to remove a little bit of oil from your pan before you add the atf.  Does anybody have anything to add on this??...it seems like an obscure trick prone to ridicule, but makes sense with how light and anti-corrosive atf is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAdd1ct Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 alright took her out for a drive today and after about an hour the check engine light came on.. so i plugged the two black wires under the dash and got a code.. was the o2 sensor.. so i had a look and it had either fallen out of the connector or i just forgot to plug it back in lol anyway after about another half hour of driving the tapping stopped.. runs so quiet and feels so smooth compared to when i first drove it.. its great.. thanks to all u guys for helping me out getting her running better than she was.. much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Awesome! Good job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Cool man, nice you got her back to normal...good luck on future endeavours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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