xt2005bonbon Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 FYI, this is my current set up: 1. mids/highs amp + sub amp installed in trunk 2. both hooked up to a soundstream preamp installed in cupholder cubby (took out the actual cupholders so the preamp can fit inside---I have an 05 btw) 3. finally an ipod, tablet, or the like is hooked up to my preamp. IOW, I do not use the stock radio and did not install any deck. Note: big 3 upgrade to 1/0 gauge wire has been done as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlo12 Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 What is your goal here? be as detailed as possible and I will give you a few options. I also recommend GOOGLEing things - like i suggested before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDoug60 Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 I current have a Kicker ZX750.1 Mono Channel 750W ZX Series Amp that will run a 12" L5 and 2 6.5kicker speakers I already have all the wiring, when I ran this amp on my 12" mtx it blew the sub and would also drain my battery, I slack a lot on that set up something I'm not trying to do to the LGT. So would I need a battery or something for the amp? What about a line out conversion. I was looking at this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46220_NVX-XPLOC2.html Or https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5301351707572935326?q=jl+cleansweep&hl=en&client=safari&biw=320&bih=356&sa=X&ei=z1DJUJTnD-HL0AHPyoGYDQ&ved=0CFEQ8wIwAQ#hsec:overview Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 For a 750W RMS amp, I believe you should be OK though you should at the very least do a big 3 upgrade with perhaps 2 gauge wire. You would not need an extra battery, but you may want to replace yours with one that has more reserve (Ah). How are you going to power your 6.5s? Keep in mind that subs can be blown even when under-powered. This occurs when the signal sent to the speaker is clipped and played for an extended period of time, thereby overheating the voice coil and killing it. That's why most serious audio enthusiasts will do a big 3, battery upgrade, and also perhaps alternator upgrade. In your case, I would at least do the big 3 and see if your headlights still dim when you push your system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDoug60 Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_20096_JL_Audio_CL-SSI.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison&gclid=CJ7EksTGmLQCFQqk4AodcWoAXQ What's the big 3 upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc]Car Audio 101 - The Big 3 Upgrade Tutorial - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDoug60 Posted December 14, 2012 Author Share Posted December 14, 2012 What about the products I listed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDoug60 Posted December 15, 2012 Author Share Posted December 15, 2012 So after the big 3 do I need a line out converter or like that jl product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 You blew your sub because you didn't set the gain right on your amp. Learn to properly set your gains and you wont blow any speakers. 750 watts RMS won't kill your charging system. Unless you like to play the stereo while the car is off, you shouldn't need a new battery, much less an extra one or new alternator. The big 3 consists of upgrading the main three power wires under the hood. Google will help you there. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlo12 Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 Any line out converter should do the trick if you are using the factory head unit. tap into the rear speaker outputs for the sub. As far as your charging system goes, with that little wattage you should not have an issue. i have 1200w RMS without the big 3 or a high performance battery. No dimming. Another user mentioned that your gains were not set properly, prob a good chance this was the case. The most common rookie mistake with car audio is thinking that GAIN is volume, it is not. The mistake I made with my first install was my grounds not being sufficient. Make sure you have a solid ground. Not having a solid ground will cause all kinds of problems, including dimming lights. Google DIYMA and take a look thru the forums, you can learn a ton by just reading build logs from other members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSpan Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 You blew your sub because you didn't set the gain right on your amp. Learn to properly set your gains and you wont blow any speakers. 750 watts RMS won't kill your charging system. Unless you like to play the stereo while the car is off, you shouldn't need a new battery, much less an extra one or new alternator. The big 3 consists of upgrading the main three power wires under the hood. Google will help you there. This. Unless you're doing something drastic or just like making changes, there is no need to mess with the charging system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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