NSFW Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Just checked and all of my pulse widths are the exact same as yours... My bad, those are from a Stage 2 tune. This pic has stock A/B/C/D across the top, and my current stuff across the bottom. Looking at the numbers, I wonder if my current IPWs are smaller than they should be... I haven't tinkered with these in a long time, I was expecting to see a little more than 50% of stock, and they're actually well under 50% of stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie368 Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Oh OK so basically your saying cut the factory latencies in half for bigger injectors? Or should I start out at taking like 30 or 40% off of factory? What are our stock injectors rated at 540cc or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie368 Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 And what injectors are those tables from? Do I need to worry about adjusting any other tables if I mess with these?? Sorry for all the questions just don't wanna screw anything up as tuning is new to me.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Oh OK so basically your saying cut the factory latencies in half for bigger injectors? Or should I start out at taking like 30 or 40% off of factory? What are our stock injectors rated at 540cc or something? No, I was saying cut the cranking IPWs (not latency) almost in half since my injectors are almost twice as big. Latencies should generally be set to whatever the injector manufacturer suggests. My injectors are ID 1000s, stockers are 540 or 560 or something like that. Since the stockers are about 2/3 as big as yours, try multiplying the IPW tables by 0.66. And what injectors are those tables from? Do I need to worry about adjusting any other tables if I mess with these?? Sorry for all the questions just don't wanna screw anything up as tuning is new to me.. Those are from my current tune, with ID 1000s. You don't need to adjust anything else when you adjust these. There are hot-start cranking tables as well, which should probably also be adjusted, but they were only discovered pretty recently. I haven't touched mine yet. Sometimes it takes an extra second or so to fire up when the motor is hot though, and the hot-start tables might be able to fix that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie368 Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 I appreciate all the help I'll be trying that this week. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Hey gttuner do you have the dw740s? Or something else? Yes, I have DW740's. Your issue is a long cranking time when cold or warm? I would not mess with the cranking pulswidth. If you have the scaling and latency reasonably close it should be fine. Have you verified your fuel pressure is holding when you shut the vehicle off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie368 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Yea fuel pressure doesn't bleed back. Like I was saying the car starts fine every morning and after sitting like over 6hrs. But jump in and try starting it after an hour or 2 and it just cranks forever and smells of gas. I've also tried cycling the key a few times when ik this will happen and it makes no difference. Its almost like it happens when the coolant temp is at operating temp or when its between operating temp and cold. Sometimes the car will fire right up after already because ng warm and then shut off and sometimes it will rank and crank for like 5 to 8sec then fire and stumble and smell like gas The problem was also way worse this past summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.