Steering Wheel Position

[Blue]

Airbag Removal: AB-12

 

Where did you find the video? I didn't see that.

 

Blue

[TSiWRX]

Blue,

 

LOL, it figures that even though I looked a AB-14.6, I totally skipped over AB-12.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

Now, as for the video - please follow:

 

http://www.worksbell.co.jp/products/rapfix/movie.html

 

It looks to me like the flat adapter plate portion would bolt to the surround area on the steering column (definitely not a technical term, as I truly don't know what to call this, being as shade-tree as I am), and thus necessitate the removal of the roll connector....

 

 

 

-A

 

Edit - out of curiosity, I did an AltaVista Translation of the FAQ on the RAPFIX/RAPFIX II, unfortunatley, I do not understand a word of Japanese....

 

Using BabelFish, it seems that a "dummy harness" is used to remove the dash warning light for SRS-disable on airbag equipped vehicles (the LGT was not specified, however). This, I would assume, would be akin to a resistor mod, and would be performed after roll connector removal.

 

Later on, near the end, there's some kind of undecipherable:

 

Q:The air back it is not you can install in the car the steering wheel boss for the air back car?A:It meaning that form is different completely, it is impossible. Of course opposite is the same.

 

If anyone can translate the Japanese, perhaps this would further shed light on our current concerns?

 

Ｑ :エアバック車用のステアリングボスはエアバックなし車に装着できますか？Ａ :形状がまったく違いますので不可能です。もちろん逆も同じです。

 

[TSiWRX]

Blue,

 

I'm checking my files -downloaded from Vacation Pix- and my section AB-12 describes only the side airbag module....

 

Meanwhile, looking at section PS-14, which details steering wheel removal, it simply starts off with the steering wheel's airbag module removed, and refers back to section AB-16 for removal of said unit.

 

But my section AB-16 shows the Front Sub-Sensor diagram!

 

From looking at section PS-3, General Description, it seems that the steering wheel lower cover is simply snap-fit on to the airbag module....but I don't want to be forcing this issue, get my drift?

 

Can anyone confirm how the steering wheel rear/lower cover comes off?

 

-A

[franklin]

it's not a tall person thing, it's about the length of your legs vs. the length of your arms after a certain height.

 

I'm 6'7", i'd like about an extra half inch to an inch on the steering column, but I find it pretty comfortable. However, I'm not leggy. My legs are proportionate to my torso, and I have long arms to boot. So it more or less works out.

Could have a point. Im 6'-4" and can get comfortable. Also think a persons indivudal preferances are different.

[TSiWRX]

Update - I feel like an absolute idiot moron.

 

Upon looking at my steering wheel on the way out of the car from this AM's commute, there's OBVIOUSLY two retention screws on the side of the rear cover.

 

-A

[Blue]

This may actually be for a WRX, but it looks similar.

 

http://img284.imageshack.us/img284/1139/airbagremoval6hj.th.gif

[TSiWRX]

Blue,

 

Thanks for that.

 

Looks the same to me, too, at least from my very rough and cursory "AM-inspection," LOL.

 

-A

[pdw]

How tall are you? This seems to affect taller owners, I think. At 6'1" I miss my Bimmer's telescoping too.

 

Yeah, I'm 6'1" with a 36" inseam and I miss my A4's telescoping wheel. But I can find a decent position in the car.

[TSiWRX]

I need a T30. This puts a delay on the disassembly.

 

-----

 

I'm between 5'11" and 6'-even, inseam 34 to 36, for some strange reason, I'm not getting these issues....

 

-A

[Mblock66]

Wow I feel big hahah. I a 6'4 (6'5 once my shoes are on) I fit fine

[TSiWRX]

OK......

 

Sorry for the delay, my taller-than-me friends.

 

Being a weekend shadetree greasemonkey and not necessarily always having the right tools cost me much time on this.

 

(Before you begin, properly center the steering wheel. And if you want to be really, really safe, disconnect your battery, too, as that'll prevent the airbag from going off accidentally.)

 

I had to "borrow back" my Torx set from a good buddy of mine, and that caused the big delay. A *_long enough_* T30 is a must, as the bolt is really recessed into the rear steering wheel cover (ref: Blue's post on 07-27-2005, 10:45 AM).

 

After loosening the two secured points on either side of the cover, you can simply ease forward the horn cover/airbag in the middle of the steering wheel. Just use a little forward tug from one of the lips as you unscrew each Torx, and it'll fall right off. Don't worry, the connectors are solid, and won't have you ending up with stripped wires.

 

Also, the Torx are held in-place "inside," so they will NOT fall out, and neither should you try to dig them out.

 

You can see what this initial disassembly looks like via my first uploaded pic. (ref: img - IMG_1127.jpg).

 

Once the center is off, take a small screwdriver, locate the small yellow plates on top of each of the two airbag harness connectors (one orange and one black) - which go directly to the middle of the unit. Per section AB-18 of the service manual, simply use a small screwdriver to gently pop up each of those yellow lock buttons, one at a time. Very little force is needed. After the buttons' up, simply pull on the entire clip/connector, and it will easily slide off.

 

I've highlighted the yellow lock buttons in the next photo (ref: img - wheel airbag connectors.jpg), which I've "pried up" with the tip of my screwdriver.

 

With those connectors gone, next unplug the white plug -which connects to your cruise master switch- at the point where it goes in to your roll connector. Properly oriented, this should be the left-most connector.

 

Now, turn the bag/horn unit around, and you should see a single horn wire leading off to an exposed terminal. Look CAREFULLY inside the "U" of the connector at its exposed end, and you'll find a lilttle tiny lock-release tab. Push it down, and the horn connection will pop right off, easy as pie. Set your really expensive airbag unit aside - and remember, the leather can scratch, so be gentle!

 

Break out your socket set, and select your 17mm socket (ref: img - wheel nut.jpg) . This is for the steering wheel nut, and you'll also need a 6" or so extension on your socket set to get it enough away from the rim of your steering wheel to not scratch all that nice MOMO leather. A breaker/"cheater" bar will help tremendously in loosening this nut. A two-foot bar worked great as a cheat, as it was small enough to fit easily within the confines of the cockpit without worrying about scratching trim/seats or having to worry about poking a big hole through the windshield!

 

Now, get out your favorite steering wheel puller......

 

Yes, the one in "wheel puller.jpg" is one that I actually own - I've pulled quite a number of steering wheels in my time, as I prefer MOMO aftermarket wheels out of all the various brands/makes. Winky is actually the first car I've had in about a decade that I haven't had an aftermarket MOMO on, and don't feel the need to. Hum...perhaps it's because it's a MOMO to begin with?

 

In any case, you can easily rent a steering wheel puller from your local AutoZone or Advanced Auto if you or your friends don't own one.

 

What surprised me - but you shouldn't count on this - is that my steering wheel just came right off with but a little pull *_BY HAND_*, I didn't even have to use the puller! First in a long, long time that I've seen that, but then again, I'm not used to working on new cars.

 

Before you pull the wheel off, make sure you mark the relative orientation of the wheel "hub" to the shaft. Now, I wanted to correct for a slight mis-alignment of my steering wheel, so I didn't bother with this step.

 

Withe the wheel off, we come to my stopping point - the roll connector.

 

In most autos that have driver's side steering-wheel airbags, this "clock" like connector is present, and is used to insure that the wires for the airbag harness do not tangle during our day-in/day-out steering wheel cranking and unwinding.

 

I've worked on several DSMs on which this unit simply and easily - and moreover clearly - popped-off after disconnecting a tab or two.

 

Winky, however, defeated me.

 

In the "roll connector.jpg" picture, you can actually see me sticking my little flat-head screwdriver in to the center of the roll connector assembly, prying up one of what is actually a set of 3-4 securing tabs along the inner diameter of that area.

 

NO, NO, NO, do NOT do this - this is a mistake.

 

This actually will separate the two halves of the roll connector, leaving you with the unwinding "entrails" of the wiring that the roll connector hides and allows you to turn the wheel without binding the wiring!

 

So, at this point, without being able to remove the roll connector, I am left puzzled at how the RAPFIX/RAPFIX II hub could possibly attach itself - specifically *to* the roll connector, as this is, IMHO, technically impossible due to the flimsy construct of our roll connector (remember, this part really doesn't serve a "structural" purpose, so it's no matter that it's flimsy, as long as it "glides" nearly without friction, which it most certainly does).

 

If the roll connector were to be removed, of course, it would mean that in our application, the driver's side steering-wheel airbag would be disabled...and from seeing the rather shoddy BabelFish translation of the RAPFIX FAQ - which signals the use of what is essentially a "resistor fix" akin to our UP EGT CEL hardwire fix - it seems that this is most likely going to be the case.

 

 

However, there of course remains the possibility that the RAPFIX/RAPFIX II hub assembly somehow incorporates the use of the roll connector - but that is something for which I am still awaiting verification from those who are pursuing this angle as a potential fix for their height/wheel-relation problems.

 

So, if anyone has that info., I'd love it, of course. [Although I am not specifically pursuing this issue on my own as I am in no need for this particular fix, I fit just fine - and as I corrected my slight steering-wheel misalignment from the factory, I'm now completely satisfied.]

 

And if anyone knows precisely how to remove the roll connector so that I can get a look-see beyond it - although I already know what's going to be there, as this was precisely the setup of my 2G DSM (and other 2G DSMs that I've worked on), I'd still love a look-see and perhaps gain a better understanding of what the RAPFIX may or may not be able to do as a replacement/adaptor hub assembly.

 

Thanks all!

 

------------

 

PS: When re-assembling the steering wheel, make sure that you have TDC on the wheel/spline assembly lined up, as well as "Top" on the roll connector. Furthermore, immediately before you put on the horn/bag cover, be sure to re-align the two Torx screws to either side of the wheel's rear cover. This will make re-assembly a snap.

[sixTOO]

OK......

 

And if anyone knows precisely how to remove the roll connector so that I can get a look-see beyond it - although I already know what's going to be there, as this was precisely the setup of my 2G DSM (and other 2G DSMs that I've worked on), I'd still love a look-see and perhaps gain a better understanding of what the RAPFIX may or may not be able to do as a replacement/adaptor hub assembly.

 

 

I did some digging this evening because I was trying to see if anyone has changed out their steering wheels when I stumbled across this thread (I'm planning on swapping out the steering wheel in my 2.5i wagon for a Nardi Classic).

 

For starters, let me just say that you don't need to pull out the roll connector. I swapped out the steering wheel on my old WRX from a couple years back and it was a straight forward swap. I took the libertiy to modify a couple of TSi+WRX's images. Here's the first one:

 

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/9486/rollconnectorhl8.jpg

 

Notice the two pegs on the roll connector and the teeth on the steering shaft. When you purchase any of the aftermarket hubs (I used a Splash hub back in the day) like the WorksBell hubs from the links above, you'll see that it's a direct fit over three protrusions. Once you've installed it (keep in mind the aftermarket hub has the notched teeth like the stock steering hub), you'll just have to tighten the nut. Take a look at this picture:

 

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/422/wheeloffmg2.jpg

 

The metal surface seen with the stock steering wheel off will look exactly like the WorksBell Boss hub that you plan to buy. I think they make a shorter one to compensate for the added width of a detachable steering mechanism.

 

The aftermarket hubs are cylindrical in shape and have the openings for the horn, cruise control, and airbag wires. You'll just leave these hidden inside. After that, you'll attach the steering wheel (or a detachable quick-release setup) and you're golden.

 

-----

 

On a side note, I noticed this thread was created to combat comfort issues with the placement of the drivers seat relative to the positioning of the steering wheel. This all seems like a convenience issue based on said driver's subjective taste. Keep in mind that if a detachable steering mechanism, or a spacer, is added to bring the steering wheel closer to the driver, it will make the turn signals that much farther away.

 

Back when I had the WRX with detachable hub, I was chagrined to have to take my hand OFF of the steering wheel just to use my turn signals or windshield wipers. I like to drive with both hands on the wheel and use my signal instantly. So I guess anyone interested in a mod like this would have to pick the lesser of two evils when opting for a detachable aftermarket wheel: Choose a comfortable steering position VS. Comfortably using windshield wipers and turn signals.

[TSiWRX]

^ Cool! Thanks!

[ozzy666]

thanks man

it's work