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Adjusting camber for the track


revD

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So I am going to Laguna seca this weekend, and am more experienced in driving (many track days and lemons) than setting up my suspension, have not camber plates until now. So:

 

Running: BC racing coils, 24f 20r sways

 

Currently set at -.25 camber and zero toe. How the plates are now I can get to 2.6deg camber. But this affects the toe

 

When you go to the track are you guys just dumpin camber and driving or adjusting the toe also??

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http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn29/d_roedel/photo1.jpghttp://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn29/d_roedel/photo1.jpg[/img]

 

Just got the track wheels on! (yes, i know ridiculous, key lime green)

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http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn29/d_roedel/photo1.jpghttp://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn29/d_roedel/photo1.jpg[/img]

 

Just got the track wheels on! (yes, i know ridiculous, key lime green)

 

Ok' first of all, was it aligned after the install? If not ,you already have a lot of negative camber.

 

If you don't have a roll center kit, go for 1/16 toe front and rear with you in the car.

 

As for camber, it depends on the tires. But most modern tires need little camber, despite what you see people doing. I would go for just a little additional camber over the factory spec in the rear and keep the high end of the spec on the front.

 

Get a pyrometer and take temps during practice on the edges of the tires. They are cheap, and they will tell you more about how the tires are acting than any other method.

 

Good luck, and have fun

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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If you don't have a roll center kit, go for 1/16 toe front and rear with you in the car.

 

If you add about another -1* of camber you'll be close to 1/16th toe or more. I'd suggest going over these values with your alignment guy as I'm sure I'm off a little but you get the idea. I brought this up to mine and we settled on the camber plate adjusted and marked it so I knew what I was getting at what position. At this time he also measured the toe difference but it's this value I have forgotten. It's been too long (motor/builder issues delaying my track days 1.5 yrs so far).

 

As for camber, it depends on the tires. But most modern tires need little camber, despite what you see people doing. I would go for just a little additional camber over the factory spec in the rear and keep the high end of the spec on the front.

 

Personally I run a 1 degree differential from front to rear. I also have friends that do very well with less neg camber than I run (-2.3f/-1.5r for me. -2.3-2.4 is the Suby sweet spot when it comes to not having any adverse tire wear.

 

Get a pyrometer and take temps during practice on the edges of the tires. They are cheap, and they will tell you more about how the tires are acting than any other method.

 

This is great advice and very important.

 

Good luck, and have fun

 

Ditto that!!

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I'll look up my settings when I get home tonight. I have BC c/o with Cobb sways. I think the front is -2.1 with 0 toe and hte back is -1.1 with 0 toe. Advertised camber from those plates is one thing, reality is another. :-)

 

If you have the funds, find a shop that tunes/sets up racecars that does corner-balancing. If you track alot, its worth the money to have it aligned & corner-balanced. Bring your car in with 1/2 a tank and cleaned out (remove all the weight you normally would) and put your wieght in the driver's seat.

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I would recommend at least -1 camber front/rear.

 

At 0 camber, I got alot of outter tire wear.

 

Where are you located? How was your track day? If you go to AutoInnovations in Milpitas, they are super knowledgeable about subie alignments and can give you great advice.

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I got it setup with -2.6 F -1.25 rear the day was awesome and I had a blast with some of my buddies. However. session 5 i was meatballed for smoke.... did a compression check back at home 125 125 125 55... popped the motor. I was beating on her quite hard, but the motor is stock and I extremely disappointed it couldn't hold up.

Ill put some videos up later of me and my buddy in his boxter playing tag around the track once i get a chance

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I got it setup with -2.6 F -1.25 rear the day was awesome and I had a blast with some of my buddies. However. session 5 i was meatballed for smoke.... did a compression check back at home 125 125 125 55... popped the motor. I was beating on her quite hard, but the motor is stock and I extremely disappointed it couldn't hold up.

Ill put some videos up later of me and my buddy in his boxter playing tag around the track once i get a chance

 

Stop over reving the motor

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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Rev limiter is at the stock place, recommendations on where to be then?

 

I talked to a suby race shop, they said I screwed up with the weight of oil i was running to help lead to this, I ran 30wt but should have run higher, should have figured that out before - but without thinking just ran what I ran on the street.

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Sounds like you cracked a ringland, which has nothing to do with the revs or the oil. Car gets hot and detonates a little more than normal and that's all it takes. Anyone who tracks a stock motor should add some 100 octane to the tank and upgrade the cooling system.
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Rev limiter is at the stock place, recommendations on where to be then?

 

I talked to a suby race shop, they said I screwed up with the weight of oil i was running to help lead to this, I ran 30wt but should have run higher, should have figured that out before - but without thinking just ran what I ran on the street.

 

A little secret. Your shift point should be at the point where peak torque and peak HP are as close as possible when you are in the next gear. So if you shift at 7000 in first, you lost both torque and HP.

 

Third to fourth is worse. I don't know how many times I have "short shifted"my stage II and smoked BMWs:lol:

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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