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trying to keep my "new" first gen going


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Don't forget to consider getting an electric impact gun. I bought a Kawasaki electric gun for $70 from PepBoys and it has been great. They really save your back. I bought it because I was having a hell of a time getting off an axle nut. It wouldn't budge even with liberal amounts of PB blaster, torching, and cranking with a very long breaker bar for hours. I bought it thinking I would use it and take it back, but I soon realized that I had to keep it. You could also get a really cheap one from Harbor Freight, but they may be low quality and not be long lasting like many of their tools.

 

There was only one bolt that my electric gun couldn't get off and that was a cam sprocket bolt. Fortunately the head was off the block so I just took it down to a buddy's shop and they spun it off real quick with their air powered impact gun.

 

I'd love to have a cordless impact gun for junkyard forays, but they are $300 or so.

 

PB blaster works wonders. I've read that Kano Kroil is even better, but have never used it. But PB blast the bolts a day or too in advance and see if you can get them off with a long wrench.

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Don't forget to consider getting an electric impact gun. I bought a Kawasaki electric gun for $70 from PepBoys and it has been great. They really save your back. I bought it because I was having a hell of a time getting off an axle nut. It wouldn't budge even with liberal amounts of PB blaster, torching, and cranking with a very long breaker bar for hours. I bought it thinking I would use it and take it back, but I soon realized that I had to keep it. You could also get a really cheap one from Harbor Freight, but they may be low quality and not be long lasting like many of their tools.

 

There was only one bolt that my electric gun couldn't get off and that was a cam sprocket bolt. Fortunately the head was off the block so I just took it down to a buddy's shop and they spun it off real quick with their air powered impact gun.

 

I'd love to have a cordless impact gun for junkyard forays, but they are $300 or so.

 

PB blaster works wonders. I've read that Kano Kroil is even better, but have never used it. But PB blast the bolts a day or too in advance and see if you can get them off with a long wrench.

 

Milwaukee sells a very nice cordless impact I want to pick up when I have some free cash. I have their 1/4" impact driver and that works great for most things and well worth the $120 I paid for it.

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^+1 on anything Milwaukee. Great tools. I love my Milwaukee sawzall and my drill. :)

 

New Milwaukee tools are suspect, the old stuff that was made in the USA, good stuff. I have Dewalt Electric Gun. But, I love my Hilti power tools, well worth the investment, if you use them often enough.

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thanks for the advice. my ex room mate had the electric dewalt impact, it was a little over 200 on sale.

 

on a full battery ill admit they kick ass, but who is responsible enough to keep a charged batter? (probably most people:spin:)

 

this is what it cost me....

 

27 gal 6 hp colman air compressor $140

 

$20 (2) impact guns, impact wrench, sawzaw and air tool

 

$19.99 sears hose and connectors

 

back to the original question...

 

anyone snapped off the caliper bolts or bracket bolts when attempting a caliper change? should i just close my eyes and try to blast it off? i mean what other options are there? from the limited information i can find on the issue, its pure luck if your f"ed or not and if it breaks then its $$$ to have a pro fix it.

 

i'm scared :eek:

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Blast away. If they break then go on to the next step. PB blast them in advance. The only difference between you and a pro is that they will charge you $90 an hour.

 

Maybe you will be surprised and they will come right off. Hope for the best and prepare for the worst. Either way you have a lot of support.

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thanks for the advice. my ex room mate had the electric dewalt impact, it was a little over 200 on sale.

 

on a full battery ill admit they kick ass, but who is responsible enough to keep a charged batter? (probably most people:spin:)

 

this is what it cost me....

 

27 gal 6 hp colman air compressor $140

 

$20 (2) impact guns, impact wrench, sawzaw and air tool

 

$19.99 sears hose and connectors

 

back to the original question...

 

anyone snapped off the caliper bolts or bracket bolts when attempting a caliper change? should i just close my eyes and try to blast it off? i mean what other options are there? from the limited information i can find on the issue, its pure luck if your f"ed or not and if it breaks then its $$$ to have a pro fix it.

 

i'm scared :eek:

 

That is not too bad for an air setup!

 

PB Blaster the night before and heat should do the trick like monkey said. Dont force it, thats when they break.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i have been afraid to post because i have not taken pictures :icon_sad:

 

i changed my calipers ( i bought fully loaded ones so i didn't have to mess with pads or using the old mounting bracket. ) it was like a 1 out of 10 for difficulty.

 

now im at a cross road.

 

 

quick recap my transmission and front differential are not getting along. atf fluid builds in my front diff, and pressure, like ridiculous amounts of pressure builds up in front diff and tranny and when one dip stick is pulled the pressure in both releases. is there a breather tube and if so where?! i get mixed answers on different forms. so if you haven't seen one yourself and are just guessing there is one maybe wait until someone else responds

 

so one option or path is buy a new transmission for 425 shipped to my house with only 68,000 miles on it ( mine is 270000) and attempt a self swap

 

or my other path... i can just suck it up and keep driving while adding atf every now and then freeing up time and money to buy ebay outback struts and do a lift. this is my daily driver though so i want to make sure i can take it in for an alignment.

 

my friend also had some 16" inch rims from a subaru lying around my garage that he gave me. what is the biggest tire i can put on without any rubbing

 

thank you for being tolerant of my scatter brain threads

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sounds to me as if you have a perished seal on the front input shaft going from the trans to the diff. I've got something similair although mines only just starting to go so the effect is not as bad as your vehicle.

 

I'm told by my preferred dealer that in order to replace it you must split the trans from the engine in order to be able to access the seal and perfrom the repair.

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