ericem Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Did you replace the TC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 I thought about it... 1) Center diff probably got to be like that over time, and looking at it again this time on my computer and not my phone screen, it's probably unrelated. The grooving in the drum is not the type of failure point we refer to on here. The two are largely unrelated. You may have a sticky center diff lock / unlock / modulation from this, but probably not outright failure. 2) Was your shifter cable length checked or adjusted? The 1st gear (Forward Clutch Pack) is entirely mechanically engaged (via shift cable). Readjust or make sure it's set right. 3) Either the shop missed something such as a clogged corner in a fluid passageway or something like that (most likely they did their job properly and there is nothing wrong with the trans itself), or 4) Valve body is my next pick after confirming the shift cable, since most of the on-board sensors and electronics are on it. Please keep us updated. Also, if you are, don't feel like you wasted your money on the rebuild. 115k miles is closer to the end than the beginning. Now the friction material is back at 0k miles. If tolerances were set right, you basically have a new transmission. If it wasn't now then it would have been later. By the way, what is your power setup? [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 TC wasn't replaced. Four knowledgeable people, two that drove the car and two that didn't, didn't believe the behaviour had anything to do with the TC. So we'll go with that for now. The car is open source tuned stage 2, with a catted turbo-back exhaust. 241/318 1) Center diff is replaced, so if that was a problem, hopefully it's gone now. 2) I will find out and/or suggest it! 3) I also think that unlikely, but good to have all possibilities out there. 4) Again, I have another VB, so unless it has a problem too, then that variable has been eliminated. After seeing the burnt clutches, I don't feel I've wasted my money. But the timing was extremely poor. I've gone from first in my autoslalom class to an incomplete season because the car was on the hoist for the last two races. That is potentially a set of tires from a contingency sponsor. Sucks. But if this gets worked out, then I'm in fighting shape for next year. I still have the chatter at this point though. It might be from the rear diff. I guess I'll find out today. I know where one from a 2008 is available, so I might be taking a drive to go get it, if it is indeed the problem. Thanks for all the input so far, guys. Much appreciated. I'll keep you posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 You probably mentioned this, but was anyone able to reproduce it on the lift? Have you thrown a (good) friend in the back of the wagon and had them listen for the source area of the sound? Or is it purely feeling? I wish I could drive it... I assume you've had experienced technician(s) drive it... [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 I don't know if it has been reproduced on the lift. All I know about the on-lift stuff is which wheels spin and which don't. Two experienced trans techs have driven the car. Yesterday, they removed the driveshaft, plugged the back end of the transmission, and went for a drive. It seemed better at first, but once it was warmed up it was the same. So it's not the rear diff. They also had a line pressure guage on it, and all seems fine there, too. Shifter cable is good. So at this point, it looks like it's coming out again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 News! Looks like the rear diff was the problem after all. For some unknown amount of time, the driver's side axle has been getting no power at all. The gears on that side, and the axle stub, are all chewed to sh!t. This seems to have resulted in the transfer clutches being burnt out in the transmission. So a rear diff, an axle, and (another) set of transfer clutches. Hopefully, I have my car back tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Your situation confuses me... glad you found the major point of failure and can get back to business. Apparently the testing of the rear diff is not to be under rated. To anyone reading, you can remove the axles to do a visual inspection inside the diff, to some extent. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 The race, I guess you would call it, on the driver's side is all chewed up. Not like the passenger's side, which is nice and smooth. And you can barely move the gears inside with a screwdriver prying directly on the teeth (with the back cover removed). It could be loaded with metal bits or have some other problem, or both. It would seem that the trans saw a lack of resistance, as the diff was only spinning one wheel, as slip in the rear and applied the transfer clutches to counter. Because this actually wasn't the case, those clutches got fried. In very short order. The new clutches lasted only a couple miles of test drives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Wow, yes the center diff clutch pack is not very beefy. I think it was designed for traction on slick ground (rain, snow). No surprise it did not withstand this kind of abuse. Good news is the center diff tail housing can be removed without removing the whole tail housing. Additionally, you will also have the driveshaft out for the rear diff, so little extra work to get at it. At least it wasn't the torque converter, or the valve body Next person to say a modified LGT is reliable, is getting e-slapped [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Hey, I made it past 100K just fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 So did I. 115K, not so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 I have my car back!! What a fiasco! After getting the diff in and replacing all the parts chewed up because of that, something went wrong. Some needle bearing was mis-aligned during re-assembly and grenaded on the test drive. Metal bits everywhere. So, more parts, which weren't sent properly and took an extra two days to get right. And the TC was sent out to be rebuilt, just to be safe. And a second round of Subaru ATF. And now I have basically a reconditioned drivetrain ready to go. And the damage to my bank account: less than $3000, including taxes. Also, he had me supply the rear diff and axle so he wouldn't have to mark it up, since I found it and he would have been getting it from the same place. The owner felt so bad about taking so long, he's treating my wife and I to a steak dinner (gift card). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mill Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 I am apparently having this same issue. Reset the memory bank in the TCU. I would get occasional shuddering when not in manual mode. Now, it will slip through all of first gear if I give it anything. In at least gears 1-3 when I accelerate it will rev up, then catch and finally go. ATF fluid is a hair low just below the "hot" hole when running. It was changed when I swapped an F1 valvebody in a while ago. Filter has not been changed. Other noteables: Removing a rear wheel bearing I overextended the cv joint and pulled it out of the rear diff. I believe if this was the cause I would have heard it. My rear ABS wheel speed sensor is currently removed because I broke it. Thoughts? Sounds to me like my torque converter is taking a shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 Based on what I went through, it won't be the torque converter. Sounds more like the input drum clutches are worn. What's your milage? And how long have you been driving without that one sensor? If the trans sees that lack of input as slip, then it could be trying to counter it. If that's the case, that could be the cause of the shudder, or that could have been the cause of warn clutches, which would then be the cause of the shudder. I'd see if you can get that sensor replaced first to see if that helps. If not, then take it to a trans shop for a road test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mill Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Based on what I went through, it won't be the torque converter. Sounds more like the input drum clutches are worn. What's your milage? And how long have you been driving without that one sensor? If the trans sees that lack of input as slip, then it could be trying to counter it. If that's the case, that could be the cause of the shudder, or that could have been the cause of warn clutches, which would then be the cause of the shudder. I'd see if you can get that sensor replaced first to see if that helps. If not, then take it to a trans shop for a road test. 130k on the car, and less than a week without the sensor, and the car has hardly been driven since then. If its the drum that might be something I might try to tackle myself. Fortunately, the car is driveable as long as I baby it. I will get the sensor on this weekend and see if anything changes. It has shuddered before if I'm not in manual mode, usually shifting 1st to 2nd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mill Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Took it for a drive again today. Now I'm hearing grinding upon deceleration coming from the center/rear of the car. Also, I get grinding noises from the rear AFTER coming to a stop. Now I'm thinking the center and/or rear diff are toasted. Would a bad center diff cause this shuddering and grinding (shuddering you feel when you hit rumble strips)? My searching says sort of. I cannot go faster than 60mph in any capable gear without it slipping and revving out. I suppose I should give in and make an appt for a tranny shop. I think I could manage a center diff change myself. I just need a means of finding out the exact problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notthesnail Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 You seem to have the symptoms I started with. Manual mode increases line pressure slightly, so symptoms are reduced. I wouldn't have called my noise while stopped 'grinding', but there was definitely a 'straining' that wasn't there before. Do you have any fluid coming out of the rear diff around the axles? If that one you popped loose isn't fully seated, that could be a problem. My center diff was chewed inside, but not broken. It's quite possible that the rear diff caused more problems, though. When you take it to a shop, if your trans guy wants to talk to my trans guy, I can give you the number. It might be helpful to talk to someone who just went through a very similar problem, if they're not super familiar with the 5EAT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mill Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 You seem to have the symptoms I started with. Manual mode increases line pressure slightly, so symptoms are reduced. I wouldn't have called my noise while stopped 'grinding', but there was definitely a 'straining' that wasn't there before. Do you have any fluid coming out of the rear diff around the axles? If that one you popped loose isn't fully seated, that could be a problem. My center diff was chewed inside, but not broken. It's quite possible that the rear diff caused more problems, though. When you take it to a shop, if your trans guy wants to talk to my trans guy, I can give you the number. It might be helpful to talk to someone who just went through a very similar problem, if they're not super familiar with the 5EAT. That would be great! PM me the number if you dont mind. I did a visual inspection of the rear diff today and do not see anything abnormal. I did pull the axle shaft earlier when replacing a rear wheel bearing. It is possible that it came out, but it did not appear so... I might just have to get it up on stands and open up the diff. If need be, an inspection of the center diff will be done. I sure hope the center diff will absorb any damage before the tranny does. Its a hell of a lot easier for me to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mill Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Replaced the ABS wheel sensor that I broke removing the wheel hub, and the problem went away! I'll be damned! Cant believe a sensor would cause such a ruckus. I guess our cars just dont know what to do without them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Good work! [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbealgt Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Just went through the same thing. Replaced trans twice then dealer found rear did to be the issue, but now I have a spare trans. The current one is getting stuck in fourth. So I need to swap valve bodies and send bad on to get hexmodded. And other details about your situation would help me. Sry u went through it and hope all is well with your scoob!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbealgt Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 And same mileage haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0lds Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 My trans is acting in a similar manner to yours. Were you able to see the damage to the rear diff visually or is there a test that needs done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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