lgkahn Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 This is my walkthrough on how I created my gauge pod with pictures.. Non nav because factory nav does not have din pocket about ac controls Bought a spare pod to work on outside the car here. http://www.parts.com/parts/2010/SUBARU/LEGACY/2.5GT/?siteid=2&vehicleid=1445356§ion=BODY%20HARDWARE&group=INSTRUMENT%20PANEL&subgroup=INSTRUMENT%20PANEL&component=Pocket got a triple din panel here but didnt use it as it was not tall enough.. Our din pocket is higher than a standard din pocket. I did use it to trace out the spacing of the gauges onto the lucite. Nice product though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/180837836173?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Ok pictures. Pod with top removed (it snaps off) and door removed (1 screw on each side) Also I used a jigsaw and haxsaw to cut out the portion on each side you see in the next pictures.. I measured how deep base on how deep the gauges were with the metal retention brackets on.. Different gauges will have different depths. http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge1.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge2.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge3.jpg Piece of lucite bought from home depot for about 5 bucks 1 foot sqaure. Drill bit I used to cut the hole.. I had it from before for the faceplate I built for my wrx. But you can buy it at any hardware store ie home depot. It is slightly smaller than the 52mm gauges so you have to sand and grind see subsequent picts. http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge4.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge5.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge6.jpg Test fit the lucite strip and get the size correct to fill the space and make sure the top of the pod can snap on and the scew holds on both halfs line up. I used the pod door as a starting point and went slight larger as this is what was needed. I traced onto the lucite with a marker, and used a razor blade knife to score it and then the electric jigsaw with a fine toothed blade to cut it out. Went larger and trimmed where needed to get it to fit correctly. Then C clamped the pice to a 1" piece of wood and traced the holes from the other din template I bought and used the hole drill bit to cut out the holes .. one clamp ,, clamped the wood to the workbench and one the lucite to the piece of wood. Moved clamp between each hole. See finished lucite with holes below. http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge7.jpg Finished lucite piece in pod: http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge8.jpg Role of carbon fiber sticker I got on ebay.. got black carbon fiber and silver and decided to go with the black: http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge9.jpg Gauges mounted in the panel from front and back: http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge10.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge11.jpg Hole drilled in the back of the pod as you will need it to get wires through when mounted. Note the pod actually screws into the radio trim and then snaps into place with the trim So make sure to leave extra wires so you can remove it and pull it out. http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge12.jpg 6 hour (stronger than 10 minute) epoxy good for both plastic metal etc. Used to secure the lucite faceplate to the front of the pod along the side. Carefull not to go to high up (only about half way) as the top of the pod still needs to snap on. http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge13.jpg Use black caulking as the panel was not flush with the bottom and light was getting through. Unfortunately couldnt do it from the inside as the gauges were to low/close. But don't do this.. Or if you do be more carefull than me as I got black silicon around the gauges and on the faux carbon fiber.. At that point I wiped it off as best I could a I didnt feel like starting over. You still need the black caulk as there are holes on the bottom on each side after the gauges are installed you will need to fill in. http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge15.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge16.jpg Finished gauges mounted in the car.. weird that in order for the gauges writing to be straight and zero to be at the bottom them buttons are offset to the right slight. This is the way the pictures on the box look also. The are glow shift innexpensive Gauges.. I Will show them light up later.. the work fine but blink off and on if the senders are disconnected so I just have them disconnected till I get that all hooked up. First gauge is boost, 2nd is oil pressure , third is egt. Constant on power and dimmer and ground are hooked up tapped into the head unit. I ran a wire with a fuse tap: this to fuse 26 with is windows/ignition so that the gauges dont come on and sweep with accessory but with on position same as factory gauges. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200737484108 http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge17.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/gauge18.jpg Enjoy I will post the lite up pictures soon as i get them all hooked up and have the dealer tap for the egt for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgkahn Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 got the boost and oil pressure gauges wired up.. Pain in the ass to get through the firewall in 2010+ lgt.. the only grommet n the drivers side requires taking about half of the dash to get to it.. And I dont like going thorugh the wheel well with all the water and salt and crap that gets thrown up in there.. I used the big main grommet on the passenger side as I already head wires going to the center console from there (the backup camera) Used a screwdriver first without putting a hole in the grommet to determine best location was on the left side.. then used a wire tape to put the single blue 14 gauge wire through and used that to tie off and pull the other cables through,.. left a short piece of that in place in case i want to wire an amp or subwoofer. Then removed sheild under dash and glovebox and pulled wire through to under the carpet and up into the center console. First pict is the boost controller velco and zip tied.. 2nd is blury (couldnt get camera to focus in that tight spot.. you can see the boost tie off and to the right the pinkish/redish spot is the oil pressure in the oil galley plug. http://stage1.icentrix.com/g1.jpg egt plugged in and tied off waiting for the dealer to tap and install it on wed. Dont really want to be drilling and getting metal filings into turbo etc. myself. http://stage1.icentrix.com/g2.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/g3.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/g4.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/g5.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/g6.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/g7.jpg actual brightness without flash: http://stage1.icentrix.com/g8.jpg http://stage1.icentrix.com/g9.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blizzard Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Great work but I probably wouldn't have used glowshift gauges. You should post this in the 5th gen section, barely anybody has probably seen this here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mosthated Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 wow looking very clean!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluuu Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 What was on the place before you put the gauges there? very nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.