JamesDew Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Hey guys, Looking at doing the timing belt/tensioners and water pump soon on my 98 2.2L. I've watched some vids, and I'm reasonably well mechanically inclined. I really think I can do this, but I'd like to hear from some who have already done it and succeeded (or failed) and tell me their opinion. What are the sticking points? All responses are much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I've done it, fairly straightforward. Line the notches up (not arrows!), and don't move the crank once the belt is off. Do the seals (cam, crank, cam o-rings) while you are in there. You might have to remove the rad to get enough room to do that too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lsnaple Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I've done it a few times now. Really not that hard. I pull the radiator to give extra room. Make sure you don't over tighten any bolts, a couple lbs over can strip the threads so be careful. If you're like me and learn by diving in and doing it, you'll be fine. Remember, its only bolts, its simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 It is also a good time to reseal the oil pump and check if the oil pump screws are tight. Of course you are replacing the thermostat (OEM of course), although you didn't mention it. For sure replace your timing belt tensioner too. Although you can compress your old one, (if you have that type) the tensioners usually fail before the timing belt from what I have been told. In your case you have an interference engine and if your timing belt fails your valves will most likely be trashed. Gates timing kits will never let you down, but are a bit more than some of the ebay kits. The ebay kits are fine, but I wasn't thrilled with the belt that came with mine. It took me a while the first time since I didn't know what I was doing. The second time I did it it was pretty easy. However, like Lsnaple says, follow the torque specs. The last timing belt I did I stripped a water pump bolt, a pulley bolt, and an idler pulley bolt. I didn't even tighten the bolts to spec before they stripped. Whoever did the timing before must have fatigued the bolts. But even if you strip a bolt it is no big deal. There are thread repair kits that are easy to use and cost about $30. Another tip I got from subikid is to remove the spark plugs which allows you to turn the cam sprockets more easily since you do not have to overcome the compression from the pistons. Then replace them with new ones, since you are in there! Also, for extra insurance, put a bit of RTV sealant on both sides of your water pump gasket. Not only will it hold your gasket in place during the install, but you will sleep more soundly knowing your water pump won't leak. The best source for your install is the Subaru Factory Service Manual, hands down. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverone Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I've done it, fairly straightforward. Line the notches up (not arrows!), and don't move the crank once the belt is off. Do the seals (cam, crank, cam o-rings) while you are in there. You might have to remove the rad to get enough room to do that too + 1 defintley do cam seals If the crank seals not leaking I might leave that one alone though just my .02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverone Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I've done it, fairly straightforward. Line the notches up (not arrows!), and don't move the crank once the belt is off. Do the seals (cam, crank, cam o-rings) while you are in there. You might have to remove the rad to get enough room to do that too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesDew Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 You guys are great. This is extremely helpful!!!! I actually hadn't thought about the thermostat, but for a few bucks more, it should get done as well. I was going to ask about the Ebay kits, and you went ahead and beat me to it. I will Subaru the thermostat, as I have read the complaints of others. Plugs and wires are about 3 months old. I'll keep 'em for now. I see cam seals are cheap, so I really should do those too. I noticed the other day there are 3 bolts that hold the valve cover on, and one appears to have a slight leak from around the bolt head. There is no oil around the outside gasket, just that bolt head. I don't have to buy the whole gasket kit do I? Again, thanks! Is there a recommended Ebay seller for the timing kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverone Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I would check out car stuff.com 1 800 262-0795 they have done well by me and have a fairly good return policy as well. theirs also amazon some times their prices cant be beat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 + 1 defintley do cam seals If the crank seals not leaking I might leave that one alone though just my .02. Why not do it when you are in there? The seal can look good from the outside, but who knows how long it will last. It's not any harder to replace than the cam seals. With all of them you just have to make sure they are seated evenly all around and tap them in with a large socket. I bought this one for my first timing install: http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-1-8L-2-2L-Timing-Belt-Kit-EJ18-EJ22-GMB-/360438410888?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru|Year%3A1995|Model%3ALegacy&hash=item53ebcdae88&vxp=mtr It has a GMB water pump, which are supposed to be good. No tensioner though. The tensioner will run you $90-120 by itself. No problems with anything so far. Although there is a little more belt noise than before the install. According to the FSM timing belt noise may be a loose timing belt, but everything seems tight. If I were you I would get this Gates kit. Gates belts are really good, and this kit comes with a tensioner. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-2-2L-1-8L-Timing-Belt-Kit-with-Water-Pump-GATES-TCKWP254-H4-/110742134497?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru|Year%3A1995&hash=item19c8bedee1&vxp=mtr You can also order the Gates kit w/tensioner at rockauto.com for $230 shipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 +1 on the gates kit. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Stant also makes the XactStat which is identical to the subaru OEM thermostat. Save yourself a couple $$ and it includes the gasket +2 on the gates kit as well. The components were NSK bearings, except the tensioner pulley, which was GMB. Also the gates tensioner is AISIN Gates kit is [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2ULA0/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details]$128 shipped[/ame] on amazon + tensioner T43204 which is [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004986Z4O]$78 shipped[/ame]. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lsnaple Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 There are 6 bolts for the valve covers, 3 on top 3 on bottom. If you get a valve covers kit, which are cheap, it will come with the gaskets for the bolts and for the spark plugs too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 +1 on Gates. Just installed a Gates kit on a '05 LGT. The quality of the kit was fantastic and I had the motor timed in about 10 minutes (including idler install). I used gasket sealer on the water pump gasket as per the instructions. I reused the thermostat (nothing wrong with it). Only thing to keep in mind is the DOHC motors, the driver side cams can only rotate in a prescribed direction. I think you have a SOHC though, so that isn't an issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 ^It is on a 98. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorno Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 There are 6 bolts for the valve covers, 3 on top 3 on bottom. If you get a valve covers kit, which are cheap, it will come with the gaskets for the bolts and for the spark plugs too. There should only be 3 bolts on each valve cover. The six bolts you see are the cylinder head bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 this is a 98 EJ22, so only 3 valve cover bolts. you can get the bolt grommets from the dealer, but all the cover gaskets parts are the same age? have you tried ''snugging'' up the bolt. do not over tighten them. you can strip them. how many miles on this car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesDew Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 A little over 150k..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 the felpro valve cover gasket comes with both gaskets and the 6 grommets you need. i just did 2 of mine, 95 and 96. the cost was less than $30 but i would have to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ztoymaker Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Where can I take a look at the vids your talking about? dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesDew Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Several vids on youtube. Watched a kid about 16-17 do it. He's rather knowledgable for his age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 i was about to ask the very same questions for my 95 L. thanks guys, great info. mine is primarily for oil leakage tho, not the timing belt as the focus. im going to replace everything that is removable while im in there tho, hehe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorno Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 There's a good thread in the 2nd gen forum here with lots of pictures. He did a 2.5 motor, but most of the info applies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 There's a good thread in the 2nd gen forum here with lots of pictures. He did a 2.5 motor, but most of the info applies. My thread also has a lot of pics here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/just-purchased-98-lgt-wagon-coolant-positive-hydrocarbons-151027p3.html In my case I removed the engine to replace the headgaskets. I was completely new to Subarus when I dove in to this project 1 1/2 years ago. There is a great embedded video from All Wheel Drive Auto in Seattle describing how to properly install a timing belt on page 4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 personally. i replace parts when they fail. i take the car apart so much that i dont care if a cam seal goes. i just say **** it and i'll replace it the next time i pull the engine out. which i'll be doing again in about 2 months. once you work on one of these engine while its out you will never wanna do any more work while its in. though i didnt pull the engine last night when i was checking the timing. turned out i was out of gas. hence why it wouldn't start. completely forgot my gas was low when i started the tranny swap. haha. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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