Diagtech Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Honestly, a lot of great tips. Well, on both of my cars P0325 was set. Clearing the code worked for a day, sometimes not at all. Before spending the money, I did my research on the circuit and the reason for fault. When set, P0325 will excessively retard timing to reduce the risk of engine failure. This gives you no power, shitty mileage and that light that just glares at you whispering "you are slowly killing me..." Knock sensors vary the resistance of electrical ground to the ECU. When the ground signal from the sensor is too low or high of resistance, P0325 sets. So the first easy check was to remove the sensor and check its resistance when knock was detected. It is allowed to range within set values, and no matter what I did, the sensor stayed within the resistance values. At some points it was almost high enough resistance to fail, but not quite. When all of the wiring checked out, I thought no way its the ECU. The link that ricky posted is what I found. It started to make sense to me, if the sensor was getting a bit fussy with age, why not try to move it. The location in that pic on the bell housing is where I have put both original sensors and have had no P0325 for months on both. Watching data on a scantool, the knock sensors work fine in that location. Any excessive knock is registered as normal. So with all of that said and with personal experience I see no problem in just getting a new bolt, probably M8 1.25X25 and bolting it on the bell housing. You want to 100% kosher, pound a 6 point socket maybe a size smaller, with an impact gun snap it tight once or twice, then come on to it in reverse to back it out. If it breaks the head, well your in for some fun with the torch and vice grips, or cutting flush and drilling/tapping. The intake would have to be off at that point. PLEASE just don't take it that far.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Update tried the sears method failed lol it didn't even move it a bit. But while twisting it was eating the bolt. And there was just shavings in the socket. Going to try the moving method. I really don't wanna go as far as snapping the bolt and having to do all of that just for a knock sensor. Who knows what will happen but ill try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky santana Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Just unplug the sensor and put the new one in other location, plug it in & be done with it. I've been running mine in the other location for over a year with no issues, no cel, nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Yea that's what I'm doing ricky. Thanks tho for the confirmation. Any chance you kno what bolt size it was? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 So, I moved it went to lowes got a bolt. Went home installed it. Took the battery cables off. Waited 20 mins. Put the cables back on started it. Check engine light still on. Snh dunno wat to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 The code still has to be cleared. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Ya I kno they told me if I let the electricity drain by the battery being unplugged it will reset everything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Ya I kno they told me if I let the electricity drain by the battery being unplugged it will reset everything? Nope. Go to Autozone and get them to reset it. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesDew Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 If you have emission controls in your area, autozone may not reset it. Disconnect battery cables, hold brake pedal down a few seconds, wait a little bit and reconnect battery. It should clear your code. Also, if the knock sensor is the problem, it should reset itself after several drive cycles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Yea autozone said no meineke said no. I didn't try the brake pedal thing yet but when the cel first came on autozone read it and it was a knock sensor. And now that I moved it, it feels better and doesn't boggle like it did and it was so loud. But I will be fine now once this light goes out. When I unhooked the battery the first time the light was out and then like a few seconds later it came back on and was blinking. So..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesDew Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Well, with these OBD cars, sometimes one thing throws a code because another failing part causes it to do so. But if it seems your car is running and sounding better, you probably got it. It made a big difference in my car when I changed a bad knock sensor. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Blinking? Fast or slow? Fast is knock. Slow is a misfire. (that might be backwards, actually). [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky santana Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 You might want to have autozone scan it again, maybe it's something else thats throwing the cel. You know the knock sensor if fixed just from the feel of it just like you said. Leave the battery cables off over night and see if it clears the cel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Its like a pulsating. It blinks slow then goes solid. I'm heading over to autozone on my break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 P0303 code now lol cylinder 3 misfire. It never showed up before.So I bought some seafoam to clean out the system because when I took the throttle body apart I seen a lot of the balck particles. So ill see how this works it should hopefully go off after this. It says the injectors could be plugged are the ignition system. But I replaced the wires and plugs like a week ago with no problems. So we will see lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesDew Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 In my world (I can never get anything right the first time), I always go back to the last thing I did if there is a new problem. If you replaced plugs/wires, check them to be sure everything is tight. Seriously, in my world, if I haven't done it twice, I haven't done it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diagtech Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Now that you have re-located the knock sensor, the timing will go back to normal and the ECU can properly detect other problems. P0303 shouldn't be too difficult to remedy. Check your spark plug gap and make sure the ignition wire is on all the way. Does the car misfire and run with a slight stumble? Spray some water on the coil and look for a spark arcing. Problem could be a fuel injector or mechanical issue(valve/headgasket), but the ignition system is the most common fault. With a flashing CEL, it sounds like you have a definite misfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 Its something going on it sounds horrible when accelerating and its eating a lot of gas again. Its just annoying right now. I'm gonna switch the injectors and see if it changes to po304 or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 When is the last time you put new plugs in? Always a good idea to pull them and look at them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Like 2 week ago. The plugs and wires. At that time the knock sensor code was still making the cel come on. Then just the other day I did the move on the knock sensor. And now the po303 misfire is going on. I'm gonna spray the coil pack with water and see if anything happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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