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Subaru OEM Under the seat Subwoofer


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Well, since there really isnt an Audio Section in our stickies I suppose I'll just start a regular thread to ask my question...

 

I think I'm out of the phase of my life where I need two 8" bazooka base tubes in the hatch with 6X9's on the hatch cover, coustic plates next to rear seats, tweet....you get the picture...

 

What I've been doing lately is shopping for a subwoofer. Now, the radio I have is from that 97' OB limited (at the pick and pull) that wag had every conceivable option available. I pulled the radio and placed it in my BD. Unbeknownst to me was the existence of the under the driver's seat subwoofer!!

I later read this on LGT.com from a guy that posted his on here. I ran back up to take a look at the double sun roof OB Limited and low and behold:

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/Rubenjc111/8704358E.jpg...and don't think I didn't pick up that quarter...

Thing is I bought the doors off of that wag also and it has rained a jillion times on that 97' subwoofer. It's gotta be trashed.

 

Next thing you know a fella here wants to sell his brand (new in the box) 2010-2011 Subaru under the seat sub. Here is a photo I snagged off of this website from the guys that talk about 5th generation legacies:

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/Rubenjc111/BC8804F0.jpg looks a lot wider but not as tall to me. No loose change...

 

Ok, have any of you second gen fellas tried to replace the USSW (under seat sub woofer)? And if you have any ideas if you think this idea will pan out?

In addition, the guy wants 95 bucks for it. It's brand new and never been installed. He has the wire harness as well.

 

Questions?

Comments?

Testimonials?

 

 

All ears. Will be by the :bbq:

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I tried replacing my subwoofer (the first one posted) with something from an 03, I believe, which looked a lot more like the second one you posted. The harness was the same, but the wiring was different, so the subwoofer wouldn't turn on without splicing wires.

 

If I may make a suggestion, and suggest you do what I did. The comparison here is between what I have in my car now, and the newer subwoofer I had purchased that didn't have the same wiring. The Kenwood is $150, so it would be $50 more than what that guy wants, but you gain a wired remote to control the phase, gain and frequency range. It's PLENTY loud enough for our cars... and I have a wagon, which has a larger interior.

 

The only issue you run into is fitting it under the seat. It slides most of the way under the seat before it hits a raised section of the floor. So it's MOSTLY out of the way but it still sticks out about an inch or so from the back of the seat. I haven't decided if I want to move it somewhere else, or figure out a better way to get it under there (it CAN slide COMPLETELY under the seat, but then it isn't laying flat and I'm not sure if the seat would be able to slide without hitting it.) Haven't taken too much time to mess with it yet.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6848714693_93134e2f64_z.jpg

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Take it to a confident stereo guy. You may or may not need an amp, I think the under seat ones usually have the amp built in. With the appropriate wiring diagrams/experience anything can be done. ;)

 

I have done this in other cars, wiring an aftermarket head unit to factory installed SW. It would be similar with an OEM head unit.

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Stang, so you never ran that black 03' OEM USSW in your wag?

 

What Radio are you running right now? The old "premium" Dual DIN Chasis radio that came with your limited? Really like that Kenwood...50.00 more bucks. Dang!

 

So you never ran this one?

 

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/Rubenjc111/EB82D2F9.jpg

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Take it to a confident stereo guy. You may or may not need an amp, I think the under seat ones usually have the amp built in. With the appropriate wiring diagrams/experience anything can be done. ;)

 

I have done this in other cars, wiring an aftermarket head unit to factory installed SW. It would be similar with an OEM head unit.

 

 

DiagT, yes these USSW come pre-amped inside! The dang thing looks just like a weight scale....

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Yeah that's the one I had, but never ended up using. The connector is identical, however the pins used are different. One of them has a power-on wire, whereas the other one didn't.

 

Im running a Pioneer 8000BT double din head unit at the moment.

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Stang, hate to be a PITA...but was the difference in the pins on the harness completely a deal breaker? Is that like saying that one sub was turned on by the head unit automatically and one was not? There wasn't a way I could splice the wire harness even if I have both of them? This sure got complicated real fast...
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To make it simpler, pick up:

 

a new Alpine CDE-122 at Best Buy for $160

 

a Kenwood KSC-SW10 on eBay for $163

 

and some Sosche RCA cables for less than $10 at Walmart

 

 

Audio problems solved. I just put one of these Kenwood powered subs in my friends Ford Ranger. It actually doesn't sound too bad as long as you're only trying to fill the sound with clear lows and are not trying to go around bumping bass...

 

As far as the Alpine head unit, it's extremely versatile and is a very good unit for the price. You can endlessly tune the audio, it has an internal high and low pass filter (having a HPF allows you to filter out lower frequency bass from the speakers so that the sound coming from them is much clearer and distorts less), and you can add a $120 Alpine mini speaker amp that puts out 45 watts RMS to your other speakers..

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I can't remember now how the wiring worked, to be honest. I DO remember that the newer unit had a fifth pin for a +12V accessory that would turn it on, so it never actually turned on. You could, I suppose, jump that pin from the other 12V feed, but I seem to remember there being a problem with that - like that the 12V feed that you DO have is an always-on thing. I remember I was confused because I was trying to figure out how the hell the amp didn't always drain the battery if it had a constant power feed, but perhaps I was stupid and never tried it with the key off or out of the ignition.

 

In either case, you can easily tap into that harness for the Kenwood unit, which would sound a lot better, which is what I suggest you do. You'll just need to run your own ACC feed - which is easy with an aftermarket head unit since those have one.

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