turboslo89 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 So yesterday I did some work to my car....1998 Legacy L 2.2L Short shifter installed Rear Diff. Fluid Oil Change Driver CV axle exhaust gaskets adjusted E-brake cable at handle Afterwards my car has developed a low speed hesitation, almost like a misfire, it's right in the RPM range of other cars with that problem. And I'm not sure if I'm just listening too hard, but it seems the engine is louder but when I accelerate it seems to not have the go it used to, but then you can feel it almost "grab" and go. It's really worrying me as i just bought this car less than a month ago. The oil was roughly a quart low which I know for sure is bad for obvious reasons but I don't think the difference in oil would make it do this. I know I sound stupid as this isn't my first car but I've searched and can't seem to find any viable solutions in the forums. OH, and there are no CEL's- To install the short shifter I had to remove the exhaust, heatshield and driveshaft, when removing the driveshaft i had to rotate it to get to all the bolts and one of the rear tires was resting on the lift enough that it wouldn't turn so only one turned....would this cause a problem in any way shape or form? Any suggestions would help Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 check all vaccum connections, if the car is getting air from any where but from before the maf it will run funny. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 to check the tranny fluid levels I did have to remove the air box, i might have bumped off a line. I'll check that, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Swagon_Wagon, hats off to you, called it first try, I apparently forgot to plug in the larger vacuum line on the front of the air box, just did it and haven't tried to drive it yet but I'm confident you're correct....Thanks for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 That hose will cause the issues you explained if it is disconnected, so I am sure that is your issue. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 it doesn't seem to have fixed it, i'm gonna dig a little deeper into it tomorrow seeing as I have a short day at work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 So the vacuum leak theory didn't fix the problem, though good thing as i did forget to connect a vacuum line. Today I took the airbox back off and made sure there weren't any disconnected/broke vacuum lines or wiring. Decided to change the spark plugs, picked me up a set of NGK Iridiums from work and changed them, was quite disturbed at what the plugs I pulled out looked like, Take a peek http://media.use.com/images/s_2/95706068a1cb8c6ac931_2.jpghttp://media.use.com/images/s_2/95706068a1cb8c6ac931_3.jpghttp://media.use.com/images/s_2/95706068a1cb8c6ac931_4.jpg I put a 104 octane booster into the gas because it went on clearance at work but I don't think it would make the plugs look like this OR make this issue with my car happen. Post up what you think could be the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hey bro, how much do you want for those used plugs? Tryin' to save some cash for my upcoming STi swap, lol. JK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayybird69 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hey, just curious if you have resolved your issue, also did tune up this past weekend and have the exact same problem. Have seached the net endlessly have come up with no cause, several theories but no solution. Sounds stupid to me but i heard switching to conventional oil may be causing the issue so i changed it out again with Penzoil full sythetic. Gonna give it a day or so but it seems to have dampened the situation some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 that's funny because I put conventional oil in as well, I was advised by a guy that seems to know subaru's not to use synthetic even though I can't make any sense of it, if that works for you please let me know because my issue has not been resolved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 well i got my JDM headlights in tonight and decided to change the fuel filter, seemed to have resolved a lot of the issue if not all of it, but still seems to hesitate slightly, I might just be nit picking but who's to say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayybird69 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 my tune-up included a fuel filter, oil, coolant, and air filter. had this same problem last summer and thought it was fixed by the fuel filter, but this tune-up brought it back. couple hundred miles after synth swap, still have issue. Thinking about deleting the fuel filter and running a straight line to rule it out (very briefly or course, couple miles). Keep me posted please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 turboslo, have you read the MPG sticky yet? There are a couple of more things that you could do that are mentioned in it, like cleaning your throttle body, MAF, etc. Seafoam couldn't hurt anything either and would really clean out your vacuum lines. It's about $9 a can and you just slowly pour half of it in your vacuum hose that connects to the master cylinder. It's satisfying to watch all that white smoke belch out of your exhaust too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 ya, I know about seafoam. I work at an Advance Auto Parts and that stuff flies off our shelves, especially this month since it's on sale. My main issue is what could have seriously gone wrong during the small amount of things I did to make this ensuing hesitation happen, a commercial client we work with who mainly works on subarus suggested that the timing may have jumped a tooth or two or that when i switched out the knock sensor, not using an OEM one could be causing the issue, so I bought an OEM to put on but just haven't gotten around to it yet but will keep updating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayybird69 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Just pulled my MAF and cleaned it quadruple checked all vacuum lines and went out for a short spin with no hesitation at all. I'll check back in after a couple hundred to confirm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayybird69 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Absolutely. Fixed. No hesitation. At all after 80 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Were/are you getting the CEL code for a knock sensor, PO325? From what I have heard, a knock sensor is a knock sensor OEM or not. Also, how could the timing belt have jumped because of what you have done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 well that's just it, but these guys I talked to buy subaru's from auctions and fix them and sell them. They said they've had multiple issues with subaru's jumping the timing, but your right, with what I did there was no reason for it to jump, plus it's not idling any differently so i know it's alright. Suprisingly, after i switched out the knock sensors, it did get better, noticeably enough anyways, but not totally gone, i just bought some MAF cleaner from work today, i'll give that shot and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 If these guys are buying subarus at auctions, who knows if the proper maintenance has been done, so a timing belt jump could be likely on those cars because they are buying neglected vehicles. If you don't feel any difference idling, then a timing belt jump is a far out possibility. You would notice a tooth or two or three if you are sensitive to your car, which it sounds like you are. When was the last time the timing maintenance was done on your car? You can always pull your timing covers off and see if your cam sprockets are lining up correctly. Did you clean your throttle body out yet? edit: I went back and reread that you don't have any CEL lights. But a knock sensor on it's way out might not light up your CEL if it isn't throwing a code every cycle. Just something I picked up today when I replaced my knock sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 Yeah, the knock sensor I knew about, hence why I still replaced mine. Ya they buy them at auctions, but theirs two different sets of shops, both seem to specialize in Subaru's, and they rebuild and repair a lot of them, but either way I know my idle is fine so it's not a timing issue. I have no idea when any maintenance was done, the guy i bought it from didn't do anything other than oil changes (supposedly) and he didn't know if the original owner had done the timing belt or related items. I looked into doing the Timing belt, water pump, tensioner and related pulley's, front crank seal and a bunch of other stuff but I'm considering doing a EJ22ET build so I don't wanna throw a lot of money at this engine. Haven't cleaned out the TB yet or the MAF but i'm gonna try today during my lunch hour to see if it makes an difference, I want my car running in tip-top shape as we are expecting around 10-12" of snow today into tomorrow so I want to have some fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Are you thinking of doing an EJ22T build, or turning an EJ22E into a turbo? Just clarifying. If you are turboing an EJ22E you can find a lot of info on how to do it, but if it was me I would just get a JDM EJ20K or 20G and get a lot more power for less money. Hooray for the turbo sticky! Lol. A timing kit from ebay will only cost you about $120, so that won't be throwing a lot of money into your engine, no where near as much as doing a turbo build. And since you don't know the maintenance history of your car, you may have jumped a few teeth of two. Your EJ22 is most likely an interference engine, so if you skip another tooth your heads will get trashed and then you will really be hosed. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 EJ22E is a non-interference engine, and i'm thinking of building a EJ22e turbo, I read somewhere that you can do a Cometic Mating Gasket set with 2.5L heads. I have to do more research to see if that's true, but doing a EJ20K is not something i'm interested in as you have to remove the dash and splice the wiring and that's not something I'd like to take part in. Plus I like having something that not a lot of people do, like an EJ22E turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 There are plenty of EJ22E turbo build threads out there that show step by step what to do. Have you checked any of them out? I was thinking about doing it a while back. If you put 2.5 heads on your EJ22E, they have DOHCs, and your engine will become an interference engine. I'm pretty sure you will have to do some EM stuff too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 ya, i haven't gotten around to fully researching, and yes with 2.5 heads it would become an interference motor but thanks for the input, i'll def check it out and i'm pretty sure i'll have to run a stand alone or at the very minimum a piggy back, but like I said i'm trying to avoid having to do to much crazy ecu swapping and wiring, plus I could build the motor out of the car so i can still drive it as its my only car, then when i'm ready, just drop it in, get the tune/programming and go and work out the tweaks "on the fly" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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