baconbits Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Nemo, I had the same thing happen to my shower. Thankfully I already had plans to remodel it in the works, and it was leaking like that for only a couple weeks from what I can tell. I didn't have any mold on joists, studs, or flooring under the tub, only some growing in the then-disintegrated drywall/cement board. I also did the same bandaid you did, caulking the grout joints. For what it's worth, I had a rec room demo'd in my basement, about 60 feet of clay block walls (7.5 foot high) , and 800 square feet of ceiling+floor combined cleaned by a mold remediation company. They came in, did the demo and cleaning, and hauled everything away in 3 days for $2800, but there was no repair of anything needed like joists, studs, etc. I fully gutted my bathroom down to the studs and joists - the only thing left standing was the tub - and remodeled it myself for about $2400. Nothing super fancy but plenty nice for a main floor common bathroom for guests and such. When I remodel my upstairs bedroom into a master suite, that bathroom will be must nicer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Thanks for the info, guys. The leak has probably only been going on for a few weeks, but it's obviously enough to cause a problem. Looking at ripping out the bathroom as we speak. I don't think homeowners insurance would even cover this, would it? If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 I should mention, that basement mold remediation was totally separate from my bathroom leak, although it was a big water leak nonetheless. I haven't the slightest idea what my homeowner's insurance covers other than $5,000 in medical bills for people injured on my property so I make sure my steps are shoveled and salted in the winter for the mailman and that I don't have any of my dillhole friends over to feign injuries on my steps until I can shovel them. I think it'd be worth a call to your agent, honestly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 14, 2016 I Donated Share Posted October 14, 2016 http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a481/CodeRed13/car/514C7ED9-0EBF-4D08-A26E-F7851784EDBA_zps7bx0khkg.jpg That's my built short-block or 6spd/r180 swap sitting next to the LGT . That mower is a f'in beast though. 28hp Kawasaki engine. 60" cut @ 10mph (terrain permitting! I need a kidney-belt and a helmet!!!!) It takes 3hours to mow/trim everything on the property but if I skip the lower part of the yard it's only about an hour. New neighbor was mowing his lawn with a Toro ride-on the other day. He has a quarter acre. I'm thinking of offering to fill up the tank every time I use it, and/or do periodic maintenance, if he lets me borrow it every other week to mow my half-acre... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Obviously I can't see your policy, but your policy should cover the resulting damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Here you guys are, using riding mowers for 1/4 and 1/2 acres, and I'm thinking my 20" Toro self propelled push mower is too big for my 1/8 acre I could use a weed whacker to cut my front yard, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 14, 2016 I Donated Share Posted October 14, 2016 Here you guys are, using riding mowers for 1/4 and 1/2 acres, and I'm thinking my 20" Toro self propelled push mower is too big for my 1/8 acre [emoji38] I could use a weed whacker to cut my front yard, I think. I did that at my rental townhome. Had a 30 square foot front lawn and no backyard. When I bought my house, I bought my 22" walk-behind and used it to mow my townhome lawn for the last time. It took about 10 seconds. [emoji38] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 14, 2016 I Donated Share Posted October 14, 2016 And don't get me wrong, a riding mower is total overkill for a quarter acre. And not really necessary for a half acre, but it would make it easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 I use my 50" commercial on my under half acre lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 14, 2016 I Donated Share Posted October 14, 2016 Oh, you fancy, huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 I had it from when I had a small landscape business through college. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Welp, I'm moving forward with my basement stair project. I did some of the demo tonight, and got a little discouraged but I need to do this. I also *finally* found the required stair codes so I can make sure everything I do meets code. Minimum tread depth (including nosing) = 9"Maximum rise = 8-1/4"Nosing (unless tread is greater than 11") must be between 3/4" and 1-1/4" Risers and treads can't vary by more than 3/8" (shortest riser compared to tallest, etc), which should be simple with my stair buttons and using 2x10s as treads. What discouraged me during my partial demo was that I confirmed my fear = the basement footer was poured, gravel dumped in, stairs built, then the floor was poured. The stringers rotted out because they were partially encased in concrete and open to the world (dirt, water) on the bottom. Carnage is in the first two pictures. I have the second tread braced from underneath to support the entire thing so it's not dangling by the landing at the top. Third picture shows my limitations. I can't make the stairs wider, and technically they don't meet code width right now, but I can't fix it. The steel beam supports a load bearing wall on the left, header bottom left supports the stringers for the steps going to the second floor, and the header to the right supports another load bearing wall in my kitchen. Currently the treads are about 33" wide, code if I'm reading right is 36" minimum. They'll be slightly narrower once I rebuild them because I'm going to use a fascia board to make doing trim work easier later. Last picture shows my plumb bob telling me where my bottom nose is going to be. I'm going to patch the hole in my floor and bring the stringers out so the plug of cement isn't supporting the weight of the steps. I'll probably cut the stringers out around a 2x6 or something, Tapcon the 2x6 to the floor, and toe nail the stringers to that. I haven't totally figured that one out yet, but I'm sure I'll come up with something over-engineered and robust. Right now, the weekend goal is finish demo, patch the hole, and get some functional stairs built by Sunday night. I'll worry about trim work and finishing stuff later. I'm going to build some simple walls and put up some bead board going down the steps to make everything look a bit nicer and make it look like a normal stairway, versus now where it was mostly open (no walls) for the bottom 6 treads. Materials for functional steps is looking to be about $125 including a hand saw to finish cutting stringers so I don't "over cut" them with the circular saw. This guarantees the project will actually cost $400. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Well worth it since you get to buy tools! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Instead of a hand saw, consider one of these multi-tools. I use the harbor freight corded variable speed model $29 reg price with case and attachments. Probably the best tool I have acquired in the past 10 years, I use it daily when remodeling. Used it today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 You've had good luck with that tool if you use it that often. Get a stair company to quote them stairs! You'll be surprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Already have an oscilating multitool. I haven't found a wood blade I like so I don't use it much as a saw... Cuts too slowly. It's great for sanding in tight spots so it gets a ton of use there. Jase, I'm not scared about these steps... Just not looking forward to the finish trim work. After putting in a small half bath in my basement, I found I like framing and doing "rougher" things like that. I'm looking forward to building some shelves and a new work bench this winter. I've read stair DIYs and howtos and know how to use a set of stair buttons so I think I'll be good. The extra cost here just doesn't seem worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 What multi tool? I have the dremel multi max. I bought the bosch adapter and use the bosch blades. Awesome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Same. I'll look into the Bosch blades Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 I use these Versa-Tool MB10B 1 3/8-Inch Bi-Metal Universal Oscillating Saw Blade, 10-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SHL796/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_ZVIayb2YV0HTY They are reasonable and cut nails easily. They are hard enough to last when using in plaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a481/CodeRed13/car/856BE8D5-F74C-4481-B847-5C357481FD7F_zpsgaupawxn.jpg Pic from the new crib. I'll load a few more later. The wife and I moved from downtown Pittsburgh back to the town where I grew up. We are loving it. Peace and quiet. Lots of wildlife. No neighbors. My fiancée and I are heading to Indiana or Westmoreland County in 5 years or so. Her family is all there. Lots of nice places for not much money, especially coming from the PNW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 I used a circular saw (with default Dewalt blade) to cut so many stringers. I had one I used as a template and they mostly came out okay. I think I ended up cutting 11 though. Good luck. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 I only bought two 2x12s. I made sure I marked them correctly before cutting because I didn't want to have to borrow my neighbor's truck again to buy another I goofed up a couple cuts (kerf on the wrong side of the line) but for the most part, they came out pretty good for my first try. The basement floor not being level side to side doesn't help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 who wants to see my latest discovery? After we bought the house we started seeing signs of fire damage here and there. I was replacing the door to the attic yesterday, and the threshold wood was all cracked. So I popped it off to replace it and there is a 2x4 underneath spanning the wall that is burnt to pieces. Ripped that out and got this wonderful view of the floor joists Stuck my phone to video what I can't see and the entire floor joists look like that. The gap is ~.5" and the joists dropped about .5" as well. I figured this was the reason the floors are all crooked but didn't think it was that bad. If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Someone cheaped out on the fire renovation. Might be fun to investigate when that happened. If you can't smell anything then it must have been a long time ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 If prior owners knew, they needed to disclose that shit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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