rdp2n Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I was browsing the instructions for how to remove the transmission from a 1995 Legacy and have some questions: 1 -- Is it really necessary to rent a transmission jack -- or will a regular one do? Is there a design someone would like to share for some kind of wooden jig to go between a regular jack and this particular transmission? 2 -- Which of the following special tools are really necessary? And if they aren't necessary what are the tricks to avoid locking horns with the stealership? a) CRANK PULLEY WRENCH ST 499977000 b) ENGINE SUPPORT ASSY ST 41099AA020 -- looks like some gizmo to prevent the engine shifting when the tranny is removed. 3 -- Whenever I do car jobs I always emerge with my own list of gotchas that I never read anywhere but places like this. If anyone would like to share their "interesting experiences" or why-was-this-not-mentioned-in-the-bleeding-docs-on-tranny-removal -- I'm all ears ... Thanks, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 1. There is a thread here of someone doing their clutch job with a standard floorjack and some rachet straps. Looked totally balls to me but he pulled it off no problems. 2-3 no idea, later model owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 removing is easier than installing, get it all unbolted and supported on a floor jack with a piece of ply wood under the trans to prevent denting the pan and move it to the rear. at some point it will clear and then you either lower it or it falls down. installing is difficult, you need to lift it up and align it and then move it forward in position. you can do it without a trans jack but you better have some one to help you. the crank pulley tool isn't needed, you are not messing with the crank or the timing . you can reach the torque converter bolts thru the access hole under the throttle body and with the right wrench you can remove them without removing the intake manifold. but you will need to keep the engine from flopping forward or backward once the trans is out. i don't know which way it will want to flop, but it will be sitting on 2 bolts/ mounting points. and you will need to keep it steady while you slide the trans to the rear. if the angle of the engine changes the bottom studs on the engine will bind up. there are 2 bolts up top, 14mm, and 2 nuts down low, 14mm, holding the trans to the engine. plus there is a nut on the bottom of the starter, 17mm, that needs to come out. you will probably have to reach this one from below. once the axles are off the lower nuts will be pretty easy. they are a b1tch with the axles in place. drain the fluid from the trans before you pull it or you will make a mess. once the rear drive shaft is removed the fluid will pour out. if you have an engine oil leak around the rear of your engine you will want to replace the ''oil separator plate'' on the rear of the engine block behind the flex plate. the factory piece is plastic and it leaks bad when old. if it has not been replaced do it now. from an online dealer, ~35$ for the plate and the bolts. don't mess with the rear main seal they don't leak very often. maybe a little oozing but no drips. unless someone replaced it wrong. which is not unusual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamal Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 the engine will want to pitch forward, but will mostly stay in place without any additional help. This makes it REALLY hard to get the trans in or out though. Wedge a small piece of wood between the oil pan and crossmember to keep it solidly in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Smashed my pink finger once because i was using a floor jack with no straps to hold it on ( not sure how much of a different it would of made), took 5 stiches lol, what happend was it had to come off the jack to get it out from under the car and it started to fall as it was supporting it, and my pinky finger got quickly jammed against the ground and the muffler hanger, for a split second, i said ou that pinched, later to find out a by removing my glove i had cut my finger bad, check it out http://valleyeastringette/E_S_2022.jpghttp://www.valleyeastringette.com/E_S_2022.jpg Anyways putting it in isnt any easier because we had to get it back on the jack stand whiel under the car, so take care its a heavy ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heresmymind Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 i always do it by pulling the engine. so much easier. takes me and a friend 1.5 hours to remove a WRX engine/tranny together. which has more things to remove because of the turbo stuff andintercooler. remove radiator. then tranny w/ engine drink beer ????? profit -B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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