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System install pics (56k warning)


doogdog

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When did wires become so pretty? All the same, I think your rack would look MUCH better if you routed the wires below, having them poke their heads up (like prairie dogs) at the connections & at the front to go into the car. You can get away with big holes in that rack w/o drilling the carpet - just a small slit. Nice work, BTW. Can't wait to get started on mine.

 

I started off thinking that way (about venting outside), but that creates a vacuum in the vehicle that has to be replaced somehow - don't like that juju. Plus it doesn't solve the problem of getting more air into the spare tire well.

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Matter of fact, here's the 2-minutes-in-photoshop-so-I-don't-have-to-answer-the-phone version...

 

I agree wit you that it would lookbetter if the wires were routed underneath the amp rack, however, that's not possible here. The amp rack sits directly on the spare tire making routing it underneath an impossibility. If you were to remove the spare tire and use some spacers underneath the amp rack that would be easy. I want to maintain the use of my spare tire and have all the audio toys. The way that I did it will allow me easy access to the spare tire without having to unhook any of my stereo equpiment. I do happen to agree that it would look better of the wires were unseen, but, I made it look the best that I possibly could given what I had to work with. The wire colors are rather pleasing though. Everything when all is said and done will be tucked away and out of sight anyway. If I were to mount these to the back seat they would be really unsightly. If I had a sedan I wouldn't have any problems doing so, I'd build an amp rack similar to what I had on my WRX (similar to what you see but both amps were side by side and there was a filler piece between the two, there were also endcaps and no wires showing at all. This was in the trunk behind the rear seats.).

Rick

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress continues. With the help of one of my good friends I ran all teh power, speaker, RCA, XM antenna, and sub controller wire. Everything works but I have to tweak the Cubby DIN thing. I will have pictures hopefully tommorow, should finish then.

Rick

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Almost there, just have to connect the subwoofer and learn how to use the head unit (Alpine CDA-9855). Here's a pic of the amp rack installed. I still have fill access to the spare tire and the cargo cover closes with no problem. I had to cut some of the styrofoam liner to run the wires, i did that with an old putty knife and a blowtorch.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwMjgxMDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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Here is a pic of the XM and IPOD tuners, the Alpine adapter for the XM is hidden inside the dash. I had just enough room to put them under the driver's seat, I knew they would fit there because I had the factory subwoofer there. This is made with a 1/2" piece of plywood and some carpeting, much like the amp rack. The unit slides all the way under the seat as far as it can go.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwMjgwMDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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Here is how I got the power, I used 4 gauge and cut into the side of the plastic positive cover to route it.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwMjgxMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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I ran the cable to the strut tower and put in the fuse (60A). Of course I wrapped the wire in split loom. I then routed it to the rubber grommet above the accelarator pedal. This isn't the best pic. I did have just enough power cable to make it all the way to the amp rack.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwMjgxMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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Here's a picture of the IPOD cable routed up through the center console. The IPOD when I get on will be velcroed to the inside of the lid.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwMjgwMzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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Here is a picture of the head unit installed, I've found that it looks better slightly tilted up (pics of that and night time operation soon). There is no problems with the operation of the face when ejecting a cd, it opens and closes with no obstructions and no rubbing. I used the stock holes on the cage and used 2 washers behind the right hand screw for the cage. I wound up hot cluing the AVO Cubby Bezel adapter to the cubby frame on the top on th inside to secure it better.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwMjgwMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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The finished product from further away. I still have to run the speaker wire to the subwoofer and tweak the audio settings. In all for the install it took me about 14 hours over 2 days. Glad it's done, more pics coming next week.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwMjgwMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Rick

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Great work & congrats on (almost) finishing up. Thanks for the pics, I'm still up in the air about using the AVO adapter or just tapping in with a aux-input for the Ipod. Seeing yours helps me visualize the whole package - I'm still opposed to the 2stereosinthedash thing, but also still open-minded. Ironically, I spent the evening customizing the stock cubby door to operate without the spring (since I have to cut that out to fit in a 1/2 din processor with AUX-in). This still leaves me the sliding door/flap as functional and is a bit more stealth. I may scrap it & go with what you've done - I have the same HU & Ipod adapter from my past vehicle. Incidentally, that's a great HU, the display is second to none, but the Ipod adapter still leaves a bit to be desired.

 

Does the AVO adapter leave room for an additional 1/2 din processor with the HU?

 

Also, how many ft of 4g from the battery to the amp rack did it take?

 

So the progress update on mine - apart from the cubby mod work, I've laid down 2 layers of fiberglass in the spare tire well to be the foundation for an amp rack. Still need to sand & add a layer of MDF to it, then Bondo & paint. Final product will be very similiar to the stock storage foam dealio as if built for electronics. Have figured out the fans & venting for that area - two squirrel cages in the channels just left & rt of the spare well, small holes in the corners of those smaller floor panels.

 

Also got in 100 sq ft of Fatmat - a Dynamat alternative - for the doors & floor. Overall I think that'll help a lot with the road noise. The next step, apart from the amp rack, is getting the 1/2 din processor into that cubby in a functional way. When this starts to take shape I should probably start a new thread, huh.

 

Enjoy the system.

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Forgot this picture last night, it was late and I was beat from being in the sun all day. This is of the fuse holder and fuse on the strut tower.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwMzI2MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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Does the AVO adapter leave room for an additional 1/2 din processor with the HU?

 

Also, how many ft of 4g from the battery to the amp rack did it take?

 

 

It's too tight to do it on the top, you'd have issues getting the top to seat correctly and it would be too brittle and flimsy. The only way I see putting in a 1/2 din in the cubby area is to move the clock. I've seen people put them in the ash tray, you'd have the room you need there but would need to do some trimming.

 

I used all 17' of 4g that came in the package and 2' of extra that I purchased, I had just enough.

 

Good luck with your install, I think you'll change your mind and put your Alpine back in when you see the pics of it at night matching the dash (red). We need pics tough whatever you do.

 

Rick

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will the avo kit work with usdm pockets, or should i get my hands on an international version... how did you get it to fit? and how about utilizing the stock changer... did you use a hi-low converter to the aux input on the radio? also metra has an antenna adapter (40-sb10) ....
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Does the AVO adapter leave room for an additional 1/2 din processor with the HU?

 

Also, how many ft of 4g from the battery to the amp rack did it take?

 

If you take out the pocket totally you have exact space for 1 1/2 DIN. I posted my system showing a 1/2 DIN EQ and a 1 DIN gauge pod. Doesn't look too shabby if I say so myself.

 

I used 17 ft and had a little extra play when running it down from the battery across the passenger side and down the passenger side door sils to the rear. 20ft would be safe if you are unsure.

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will the avo kit work with usdm pockets, or should i get my hands on an international version... how did you get it to fit? and how about utilizing the stock changer... did you use a hi-low converter to the aux input on the radio? also metra has an antenna adapter (40-sb10) ....

 

You remove the cubby and use the AVO din pocket instead. The one you get from AVO will work fine. There is some cutting that needs to be done but just do a search on "DIN cubby install" and you will find a thread on how to do it, quite easy and well doccumented.

 

As for the 6 disc changer, haven't done it yet, need and adapter for the head unit for a AUX input.

 

For the antenna adapter I already had one from mvingeau, you could use the Metra one just as well. I wound up using a 12" extention on my antenna.

 

Hope this helped.

 

Rick

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Personally I wouldn't bother using the 6 disk changer, you've got the Ipod & MP3 ability already plus the sound output from the stock changer will be super boomy with the loudness circuit built into it. I'd like to see those nighttime shots when you get to it.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Rick that looks vurrry pretty, almost like a factory option! Are you using the Alpine with an iPod, if so how liveable is that? How is the glide wheel working for you?

 

The glide touch takes a few days to get used to, I swear it learns your movements. At first I had difficulties wit it, now it's second nature. As for the I-Pod interface, I've tested it and it works fine. I don't have an I-pod yet but want one. I figured it would be a hell of a lot easire to install everything at once.

Rick

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