SpecBamf41 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Look at this. THATs one of the control arm bolts. 19mm!! What the Hell do i do about that!!! im so pissed!!!!! gA;klWZ BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 reverse bits and bolt extractors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 reverse bits and bolt extractors ^This Good luck. Your $35 repair just became fun -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 yea f me. what kinda drill bits do i need to drill into this metal. ceramic? BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 REVERSE BITS. Go to sears and tell them you broke a large bolt and you need to remove it. Tell them you heard about reverse bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 ok... my bro also said i should just heat the whole are up red hot and vice grip it. idk about that cause i still gotta remove that other big bolt it get the bushing mount out of the way. though i did get a new bushing mount.....maybe ill just cut the mount away. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 would it be smart to get that other 19mm bolt out. put the new control arm on. put just the one bolt in. and drive maybe a mile at most to a local guy that does alot of machining, auto work, also does alot of docking stuff too and has a decent shop. known him for awhile now. there and much stress on that control arm when going down the read. all the weight goes right up the strut so i think it should work. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 no, that part of the control arm is stressed whenever you move the car, My suggestion if you can get at it enough, is to either do what they mentioned and drill it out, or try to heat the area and weld a somewhat smaller bolt to the broken part, then try to turn it out. wouldn't hurt to soak it with penetrating oil for a bit first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 will penetracting oil go up? or can you get to the back of the bolt. and yea i know its stressed when ever you moved but would that single bolt be enough to hand a small jayt to my local mechanic, im thinking so BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 if i pop a spare on the front and drive at most a mile to that shop it wont absolutly kill my front diff will it. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I personally wouldn't risk it but it might hold. IMO the problem has been compounded enough. You could either get a tow or maybe see if the mech will come out to your place? driving it like that would be my last resort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Do it yourself, save money and gain experience Part of the bolt is sticking out... this could be alot easier than what I thought. Let it soak in PB blaster/similar penetrant liquid for a day or so, then heat it up, grab with vise grips, and try to get that thing outta there. Picture of what is left stuck int he car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 +1 for the PB Blaster! Any time I'm taking bolts out and let them soak in PB for a while. Essentially, it reduces the risk of this exact issue. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 And PB will "wick" up into the threads, just squirt some on every once in a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Use Aero Kroil instead of PB. Works 10x better. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA]Amazon.com: Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL): Automotive[/ame] [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G Man Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I'd try Deep Creep Costs 8 to 10 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Never heard of Aero Kroil. Gonna check it out though! My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 car made it jsut find with about 10 degress of toe out lol. had to fight the wheel pretty good. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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