FiberglassCustoms Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Simplifying my life & heading back to 2-Way Active. I came across a Member on diyma that wants my Door Panels & I can get a set of OEM's for a good price. BTW, if you are wondering the Door Panels that I am selling are Modified (Glassed & Vinyl'd) to suit Dedicated 8" MB Drivers for a 3/4-Way Active Configuration. -I know I could make adapters, but I'd rather sell & head W/ OEM's. Anyways, I will be running a set of HAT Clarus C6's matched W/ most likely a set of Large Formats. HAT's are 3" Deep. I know I have 2" of Depth on my LGT. Anyone know how thick the Spacer ("stand-off") CAN be to where it the spacer will NOT come in contact with the Door panel? Thanks, Tyler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I wanna say it'll fit. I've got 3/4" spacers and out of curiosity I held an Mpyre 65m (~3.5" deep) up to it and it would have fit depth-wise. I did have the window rolled up tho...maybe rolled down it wouldn't have fit, not sure. But to answer your question...3/4" spacers fit, not sure how much bigger would fit behind the door panel. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiberglassCustoms Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Thankyou Dbl, When you held up the Mpyre's, were you using your 3/4" spacers? I am curious to see what is the "max depth" before contact W/ the Window. I'd feel more comfortable cheating the drivers further into the Door VS heading W/ 1" spacers & be paranoid whether or not my Cone is rubbing against the Panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Yeah that was with the spacer. Wish I could remember how it fit with more detail to help you out. I never rolled the window down with the door apart so I'm not sure where it comes into play. I just know I was considering modding the spacer to fit the Mpyre because I've always wanted to use them. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiberglassCustoms Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Understood, Check diyma-I know I came across a few threads concerning the Mypre's. I will have to Post a Build Thread & Post a review of my HAT's. If "Car Audio" intrigue's you, than you should find this interesting: http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3523#p41921 -Picked them up today from a "Professional Video Gamer" who Drover a Lime Green Fiesta & wore a South park outfit, but at $70 for the pair, it was a STEAL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Cool beans. That was an interesting read, thanks for sharing. I already own a pair of Mpyres but never installed them because they wouldn't fit in my last car without too much work for me. Maybe I'll swap them into the LGT some day; running Type X comps now. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiberglassCustoms Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 How do you like your Alpines & can you make any comparisons among other Alpine sets? I'd like to hear the F1's. X's were "Edgy & Snappy." I looked into them a while back, but I wasn't too sure if the Tweeter would suit well. Yeah, it's damn cold in Mn. I probably won't get going on my install until spring. I plan on running a Mini DSP & that will most likely take 1-2 months to ship anyways, unless I can come across one. You may also find this interesting-Just about all the features of an MS-8 OR Bitone at under $100:) (well, other than Auto Tune:)) http://www.minidsp.com/index.php?orderby=product_price&DescOrderBy=ASC&Itemid=64&option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=7&manufacturer_id=0&keyword=&keyword1=&keyword2= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I've honestly never been in another car with a proper component installation. Besides a crappy set of Pioneers I had years ago, this is the only component set I've installed myself too...I just don't have much experience to compare to anything. I like the Xs because they provide a good amount of midbass for what they are, based on comparisons to the sound boards at a local shop. The tweeters can be a little harsh but they're just about how I like it personally. Mine are attenuated a little, but not much. I actually bought the Mpyres in a quest for more midbass but never used them. That miniDSP is cool though. I have an Alpine PXE-H660 that I'm happy with but the size (and price) of that miniDSP is pretty amazing. I don't think I have the know-how to do a good job tuning everything myself though. You seem quite a bit more experienced than me. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiberglassCustoms Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Ha, easy on the Pioneers- The TS-C720PRS are a "Kick A$$" set for price/value. Looking for MB?: http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 -Mid(woofer) was designed for 3-Way configuration, but I have seen a few 2-way installs. Those Anarachy's are supposed to kick out more MB than the Vanidiums & Peerless's SLS Mids. Are you familiar W/ the H650? From what I know, the only difference between that & the H660 is Color, & W/ the H660 you do not have to use a Lap Top to tune, meaning you can do your tuning on the Module itself. ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Those look pretty sweet too. This is making me want to take my doors back apart and put the Mpyres in lol. But like you said...it's too cold right now. It'll have to wait till spring. I haven't used the H650 myself but I did research the differences between them while I was looking to buy. Seems that the biggest difference was a big software update and that you can do the auto tune without a laptop on the H660. Otherwise, the new one has high pre-amp voltages and it's black. Using a laptop is still better though because it allows for more adjustments and you can add more mic locations so the auto tune does a better job. I tuned mine without a laptop but once it warms up I'm going to retune and see how big of a difference it'll make for me. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiberglassCustoms Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 The "Auto-Tune" on the Alpine Modules-Can you Fine Adjust after Calibration? BTW, if anyone knows the EXACT depth on my 05' LGT, please note! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Yes you can. I'm fairly sure you can do much more using the computer software, but just using the unit itself you can adjust the EQ, time alignment, and crossovers after the auto-calibration. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiberglassCustoms Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 ^ Understood, I know a majority of the "Complaints" on the Alpine Modules were Flexibility-wasn't exactly sure "Features" after Calibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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