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How long does it take you to thread a bolt - Help Please.


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Installed my Kartboy STS and shift knob tonight. Install was straight forward and easy.... with ONE exception. You are not going to believe this at all.

 

After I installed the STS I rowed it through the gears and noticed it rubbed a bit in the upper left hand side when put into first. So... I took out the four bolts that hold the metal ring in place - the one that surrounds the base of the shifter.

 

I got enough clearance to prevent anything from hitting but now I cannot get ONE freaking bolt back in - the lower right one. Before we start making fun.. here is what I have tried:

 

-other bolts - all begin to thread and then bind

-ALL the bolts work in the other three holes and I can finger tighten them without binding

-I readjusted the metal ring... made sure all is lined up.. and tried again.. still no success.

 

I am afraid to tighten it down as I do not want to strip it. Right now it is in just a little bit more than finger snug. Everything is put back together and I should have been done with this thing an hour ago.

 

I do not see anything wrong with the threads on the bolt. I have cleaned the bolt threads with a wire brush... and I even ran the wire brush through the hole. Still nothing. It starts to thread and then it binds about 1/8 of the way down. I dare not torgue on it as I do not want to strip it.

 

Any suggestions on how to thread this back in???

 

If I can get this cleared up I will be all....:D

Right now though I am :mad: - un-freakin-believable.

 

Thanks for any suggestions.... and I did search and I could not find anything on this topic ;)

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Have you tried tightening the bolts down without the plate on? If the bolts tighten down without the plate on without any trouble, put the plate on, tighten the bolts a couple turns to make sure you have them started straight, then just tighten them down.
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Can you get a good view of these bolts from underneath the car? it sounds like either one of the threads towards the bottom of the hole it damaged, or somthing is in the way preventing the bolt from feeding all the way through. What's involved with putting in the STS other than the bolt issue? I think that would make a nice upgrade for me.
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Chief - I have not tried it without the plate. I took the bolts out and was not able to remove the plate since it is spot welded to another piece. There is some flex in it though so I was able to move it slightly forward. Then... once I tried to re thread the bolt... it was a no go.

 

th - I am not sure if I can see them from under the car. My guess is no, since it appears to be surrounded my gaskets and such from under. It does appear to affix itself to the car body - as I can see the color of the car underneath.

 

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I think I am going to have to invest in a thread tapping kit and see what I can do with that. Honestly I think I could do just fine without it (the bolt).. hehehe.. but I am so freakin anal though I cannot get over this until I resolve it. Only then will I be happy with install which by the way is FREAKIN AWESOME!

 

gggrrrrrrrrrrr

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Man I don't even know what bolts you are undo'n........EDIT: CUZ I CAN"T READ :D

 

Wait I do, are they the 2 White clips that go over the rubber pad! If those are them, then the basically just snap down into place barely any turning, and are only that to keep the rubber/foam in place. You will turn them till the cows come home and they won't go anywhere, no worries though that's the way they are supposed to be.

 

To install and STS the only bolt you need to remove is the one that goes through the shiter.

 

For install ref see here: http://www.pimpmyauto.com/sts.htm

 

EDIT: just looked I see the bolts you removed....sorry man def sounds like the thread got junked somehow on them. Really tought to tell without seeing it in person. My guess is you can get the screw in straight if you did the other 3 right....try to put some tehplon tap around the bolt to see if it will seed it past the knotched part of the thread.....

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Jon - so, do I really need a master's degree to do that or what? It would seem to me to be straight forward - find the right tap/die.. insert and go slow... back out and try the bolt.. no go.. go a bit further with the tap... correct?
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totally, Scott is a little off with his warning. I re-threaded several bolts on Pat's A4 when we replaced his upper A-arms in the rear, no problems. I have also taped many threads on my own for stuff around the house. Easy enough, just go slow....just like medical school...see one, do one, teach one.
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totally, Scott is a little off with his warning. I re-threaded several bolts on Pat's A4 when we replaced his upper A-arms in the rear, no problems. I have also taped many threads on my own for stuff around the house. Easy enough, just go slow....just like medical school...see one, do one, teach one.

 

Who does the... "never seen one, screw it up, fix it, do one, teach one" then?

 

 

hahahha

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The POS KB SS still rubs on the upper left side? I don't know why they still sell that garbage ... I got one 4 years ago and it rubbed. I can't believe they still haven't fix the problem (which was acknowledged by KB).
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The POS KB SS still rubs on the upper left side? I don't know why they still sell that garbage ... I got one 4 years ago and it rubbed. I can't believe they still haven't fix the problem (which was acknowledged by KB).

 

I think I need to be more clear on this. It only hit during my test shifts into first. This shift into first was a forceful one and barely hit... but being that I am anal, I decided to try and adjust the metal plate surrunding the base of the shifter. This was my mistake - as now I am having trouble with the one bolt.

 

I do not believe it would have ever rubbed in first gear. Again, the only way I was able to get it to was to:

 

Get it into first... and force it up a bit - something you never do on the street.

 

My "analness" and worry got me into trouble. Personally, I do not believe this to be an issue to worry about. This STS is very nice. In fact the metal plate is back in the OG position and it does NOT rub.

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