Willson556 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=111640&stc=1&d=1328295791 Mocked this up real quick to show the idea of being able to perfectly position the inner ball joints for the purposes of maintaining a very good bump steer curve. Birds eye view, the rack moved forward to the front of the car 4 inches, sitting in the k-member gap of the GTO oil pan. Red: metal offset extensions. Orange: Female threading to receive inner tie rod end. Green: Sample idea of a brace to bridge the two sides. Not pictured: had the idea to hack up a Chrysler steering rack, as the tie rods mount to the middle of some of those racks, not the ends. So I could mount the Subaru rack and the hacked up chrysler rack together, then mount the green bar to the middle sliding portion of the Chrysler rack. The idea (which I'm still very fuzzy on) is to stabilize the offset mounts to provide the least flex and best tracking. I am open to constructive ideas, as I do not have a good understanding of designing this sort of thing. Separately, Turns out its easy to rig up your own bump steer test rig with a flat board, dial gauge, floor jack, coilover with spring removed, etc. Use a jack stand or whatever to position the inner tie rod joint at any which location, and move the hub through its range to produce a bump steer curve. Rinse and repeat until the curve stays as close to zero as you can get. The only vaguely realistic idea I can think of to accomplish your "red link" idea would be to have two rocker arms connected by a vertical shaft. If you used high quality bearings and rod ends compliance *might* not be too bad. That said, you'd still be added a lot of joints to your steering system... EDIT: Just noticed this was in fact last year... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Thank you for your reply and message. It's still of interest to me, though still not a matter of practical implementation either. There has to be a "simplest" solution; there always is, somewhere. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 There is a simplest solution. I posted it already. Get a custom small diameter torque converter, and leave the steering rack where it is. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 There is a simplest solution. I posted it already. Get a custom small diameter torque converter, and leave the steering rack where it is. Going from an 11" to an 8" buys me 2" if I'm lucky, will cost a lot, and requires cutting into the trans housing, which may or may not weaken the torsional strength of the bellhousing to the point of it wanting to twist. Possible. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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