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97 outback speaker swap questions


Geo_08

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Alright, I did my due diligence and looked for a post with these specific questions and I could not find anything, although there is a good chanced I missed it:

 

I am replacing the stock speakers, and am curious as to what size. I have gone to crutchfiels and it seems as if both 6 and 6.5 work. My other concern is having to modify the brackets or buying adapters.... I know sometimes stock speakers can have a goofy 3 bolt mount.

 

I haven't tried for fear of damaging the stock grilles, but do they pop out with a screwdriver?

 

Finally any speaker suggestions? Looking on spending under $200 for all 4

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Will you be running the speakers off an amp or straight off the head unit?

 

Finally any speaker suggestions? Looking on spending under $200 for all 4

Unless your rears are dying/dead, don't bother replacing them. You won't get any sound benefit as your stereo "should" be faded all the way to the front unless you carry passengers. $200 will not get you anywhere near a decent sounding stereo (especially if you really want to spend that $200 on 4 new speakers). However, $200 will get you some relatively decent sounding splits for the front. Look at brands like CDT, Morel, Focal, Hertz, Re Audio, Crescendo etc. These all have very good sounding entry level speakers. You may find higher ranges second hand on car audio forums or eBay. Steer clear of brands like Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony etc, they all sound like sh1t.

 

I am replacing the stock speakers, and am curious as to what size. I have gone to crutchfiels and it seems as if both 6 and 6.5 work. My other concern is having to modify the brackets or buying adapters.... I know sometimes stock speakers can have a goofy 3 bolt mount.

 

Yes, some factory speakers do have a 3 bolt mounting system, however, make up a new baffle out of mdf, or similar, then you use the factory mounting points to mount the baffle, then you use the new drivers mounting holes (usually 4 holes) to mount to the new baffle. Using appropriate sized screws of course. Once this has been completed, then you can use silicon gap filler to seal the gaps between the new baffle and the door frame to minimise air leaks.

 

I haven't tried for fear of damaging the stock grilles, but do they pop out with a screwdriver?

Please for the love of god, don't use a screw driver. Go down to your local auto parts store, or use eBay, and get yourself a proper set of trim removal tools. You will be guaranteed that you won't scratch your door trim. I'm not sure if the speaker grills pop off anyway, you might just have to take the whole door trim off which is not a big job.

 

One more thing, sound deadening will give you a massive difference in sound. A layer of Dynamat or similar on at least the inner door skin will make a properly installed $200 set of splits sound better than a $500 set of splits that hasn't had the benefit of sound deadener being installed.

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I will be installing just off the head unit. Brand wise I was thinking infinity or kicker. Thoughts on those brands? I also still need to hear thoughts on what sizes are the easiest to fit in, Some people say 6, some say 6.5.

 

As for the baffles you speak of, I assume you are talking a enclosure for the rear of the speaker, much like a sealed subwoofer. This should separate the new speaker from the door frame completely.So I am not understanding where the leaks may occur.

 

I guess that makes sense about the shifting all the way to the front. These aren't surround systems like my home stereo.

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No, a baffle doesn't mean an "enclosure". A baffle is a mdf ring that mounts the door to the baffle and the new driver to the baffle.

 

You won't be able to make up a sealed enclosure for the speakers, almost all splits are designed to operate in an "infinite baffle" situation. As for what size, you will be able to install most 6.5'' speakers as long as they aren't crazy deep. Look to make up a 12mm to 16mm baffle and that will give you ample room to squeeze in most 6.5" speakers.

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