Soda Popinski Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Now what. It seemed to snug up fine then suddenly turned easy. It's not the bolt head coming off, but looks like some of those aluminum threads fell underneith onto the turbo housing. Crap. The seal looks snug for now, the front bolt is tight but the back I'll assume just shaved off the threads. Should I just put a bolt through it and a nut on the other side? How much of a PITA is it to retap this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsports Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 One of my biggest fears... next week for me. 11.8 lbs torque on those bastards and I've heard you have to be perfectly lined up. The fix is using a smaller/longer bolt with a nut on the other side... or getting it retapped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HpJunkie Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Did it to mine about a year ago due to not alining it all perfect. Just put the same size bolt but longer through and I put a lock washer and nut. Never gave me a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Helicoil time My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Should I just put a bolt through it and a nut on the other side? i can assure that this is an adequate solution. but remember, you don't want to overtq it that way either -- the tq spec isn't just for the Al threads, but also for the gasket's sake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 I replaced the two oem aluminum bolts with two 7mm-1.0 x 40MM bolts, each with a pair of steel/zinc plated 7mm flat washers and a tension lock nut (7mm x1.0) Total cost was $2.54 from Home Depot. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/f9151369.jpg http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/0d435720.jpg I put the nut on top so it won't fall into the engine bay if loostened. Bolt goes from the bottom up. Part Numbers for HD: Bolts: 7mm-1 x 40mm p/n 030699359288 Washer: 7mm flat p/n 030699363285 Lock Nut (tension) 7mm - 1 p/n 030699406088 hope it helps someone else! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Same thing happened to me the other day. I did something similar to that as well except the bolt length I got was 1 3/4" (I think) so threading the bolt from the bottom wasn't an option due to its longer length. I got the zinc plated grade 8 (I think? whatever the highest grade was) from home depot. I didn't want to take any chances with the amount of thermal stress that is there. The grade 8 ones are gold colored. I also didn't bother with a lock washer... just used regular grade 8 zinc plated washers. None of the stuff you bought is graded as high as the bolt that you removed, which I believe has a little 8 on its head. That's an SAE grade 8, which according to this page: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm#13 would be the equivalent of a metric grade 10.9. The metric bolts from home depot are only metric grade 8.8 which is an sae grade 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.