1astrokeit Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 UPDATE: just got back from alignment n I got -1.5 n zero toe in front. Got zero toe in rear but the lowest neg camber I could get was -1.3 on driverside n -1.2 on pass side. Should I invest in the rear camber kot from whiteline? I installed a set of konis along with tein s-techs springs. I also installed the whiteline roll center and bump steer kit. Everything went well except for getting the ball joints out, but after everything was installed I went to get it aligned. I told them to get it back to stock specs. The car was there for 4 hrs and no phone call, so I called to see if it was done and they said its done. I go to pick it up and they say I need camber bolts. Ok sounds reasonable so I order a set from a local speed shop. I picked them up and went to put them in and the bolts were swimming in the hole. After talking to dan at fred beans he said that with the car being lowered you dont want the factory specs. Anyone know what kinda of specs im looking for? The camber is at -1.10 and caster is like -6.20 in the front. The bacl looks like they got it back to factory. By the way I took the car to ntb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 put the camber bolts should go in the bottom strut hole it allows for double the camber in either direction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Camber -1.5 front -1 back Someone is running -2 front and -1.5 rear without any wear issues at all - this is what I want Toe 0 front and back caster doesnt matter as much as you can but dont remember pos or neg - I dont remember which direction is which Guessing its neg cause of your spec you said 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Caster should be positive, not negative. "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 It is positove caster. I misread the sheet. Onside reads 6.06 and the other is 6.33. Is that good? If I change the camber to what underground said will the caster change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Well I screwed up typing the caster thing, It doesnt make sense:lol: If caster is adjustable, get as much positive caster you can 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Caster won't be the same side-to-side. That's nothing to worry about. It depends on how you drive the car. I'd probably run something like -1.75º camber in the rear, -1.5º in the front, zero toe or a little bit of toe-in in the rear (0.01º max). That'll result in a pretty neutral handling car that understeers at the limit, just like a good street car should. It'll be less tail happy in the wet/snow, but it'll allow you to use the throttle to rotate the car when you want and be much more forgiving to street driving (things like emergency lane changes and the like). [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 It is positove caster. I misread the sheet. Onside reads 6.06 and the other is 6.33. Is that good? If I change the camber to what underground said will the caster change? Your caster is fine. "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 ok thanks guys. ill try that and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted April 9, 2011 Author Share Posted April 9, 2011 Updated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruTim Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Did you do this with the OEM bolts? I'm going to try and get as much negative camber i can get out of them hopefully -1.5 all the way around with 0 toe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 IMO You should be fine Tim: I was able to get max -1.2 front camber up front with stock bolts (One side was able to get -1.5, but other was -1.2 so I matched the sides) stock height You will gain neg camber in rear when you are lowered 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Did you do this with the OEM bolts? I'm going to try and get as much negative camber i can get out of them hopefully -1.5 all the way around with 0 toe yes i got all this with the stock bolts. im debating on whether to install the rear camber kit from whiteline or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruTim Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 yes i got all this with the stock bolts. im debating on whether to install the rear camber kit from whiteline or not. Do you have the kit? If you do will you have to pay for an realignment? Also keep in mind it is a pita to install the bolts - as in it is much easier to use a press to install them Your rear camber specs is fine. What are you shooting for? Running -1.5 in rear will not cause uneven wear...so -1.3/-1.2 is fine 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 I would have gotten -1.0 in the front, and -1.2 in the rear. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Do you have the kit? If you do will you have to pay for an realignment? Also keep in mind it is a pita to install the bolts - as in it is much easier to use a press to install them Your rear camber specs is fine. What are you shooting for? Running -1.5 in rear will not cause uneven wear...so -1.3/-1.2 is fine No I didnt purchase the kit. Someone mentioned to run -1.75 in the rear. I know they are a pita thats why I asking is it even worth getting the kit amd struggling putting it in just for another .5 degree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 I would have gotten -1.0 in the front, and -1.2 in the rear. Whys thats? Am I going to have problems with tire wear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 No, but more camber in the front than the rear makes for a more stable driving car on the street. If you aren't racing it, you want understeer at the limit. The last thing you need happening is to twitch the wheel at 80mph to avoid something that jumps out, and lose control in the subsequent tail-whips. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1astrokeit Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 i have more camber in the front then the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Whoops, I made a mistake. More camber in the rear than the front makes for a more stable car. It's personal preference, but I prefer predictability out of a street car. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Like Bac said its all personal preference. I have nothing to say since I have not been into this - no experience, just research I say do not worry about getting more negitive camber, save the money for something else. Unless you plan on tracking it a lot. As a daily driver its good enough 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Whoops, I made a mistake. More camber in the rear than the front makes for a more stable car. It's personal preference, but I prefer predictability out of a street car. It's a lot more than camber:) "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 It's a lot more than camber:) That's right. It's all the other stuff I mentioned in an earlier post. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboman38 Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 I read several threads and need some help on the specs for alignment. I have an 05 LGT with stock struts and Epic engineering springs. I've read to get as much negative camber as possible. My car is a daily driver (alot of highway driving) so I want good tire wear. Any help is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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