xero287 Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 So. As usual my car is just a PITA from the start. I went under my car to install the above stated things and guess what the bolts looked pretty rusted woohoooo! tried to get the endlink to swaybar bolt loose and it started to strip, awesome right? So basically, does anyone know how to get that bolt out if the bolt head is stripped but not the nut? Also I got the perrin brackets as well and im guessing those go from the diff brace to the back of the bushing mounting place lol. Any help is appreciated otherwise ill have to pay more than the sway bar for the install but hey thats typical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rng Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 So basically, does anyone know how to get that bolt out if the bolt head is stripped but not the nut? I take it you're installing new endlinks as well as the swaybar? And the head is rounded-off, not stripped threads? Try undoing the other end of the endlink (endlink-chassis end, not endlink-sway end). You can get the whole bar out with endlinks in one piece if you have the car on stands (or drop the exhaust), but it's easier to loosen the endlinks with the car on ramps. Apply lots of liquid wrench and let it soak in for a few hours. Keep re-applying it, and use a wire brush to clean the threads so that once you get the nut free it's easier to take off. If you want to try again at the rounded-off end, use the biggest vice grips you can get on the head. Get a block of timber in there to stop the vice grips turning, and you can put a lot more effort into wrenching on the nut. Alternatively, grind the nut off. You're hopefully not going to need those endlinks again anyways:). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burock Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 If you are installing new endlinks, then just cut the bolt or nut head with an angle grinder and be done with it. When things get ugly due to rust, bring out the big guns, ie angle grinder. You'll spend a lot of money on blades using just a Dremel and I wouldn't be using a torch given the gas tank is right there. How you do I know- live on the ocean in coastal New England where salt is on the roads for 6 months of the year and in the air for 12 months of the year. I've dealt with my share of rust, Heli-Coils, torch time, and angle grinding. A rusty or stripped bolt can turn any project into a nightmare w/o the right tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Right, I just mainly wanted to avoid the angle grinder, as I had to use it on the cam sprocket bolt lol, and it just brings back bad memories haha. I tried the other end (chassis to end link, oh and yeah I am using new endlinks not these tiny ones that are designed poorly), but it seemed like I had to exert quick the amount of force; I'm pretty sure thats due to the fact that the suspension is uncompressed. Oh and yeah, no stripped threads, its just the head. Its STRANGE people, the back of my car is like rust city, while the front looks new lol. I wear safety glasses just for the rust lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 PB blaster, wire brush (on the nut end) then put a socket on the nut and hit it a few times with a BFH. The nut should then come off. Hold the bolt head with a vice grip. Same procedure, other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Sounds great =) i do love BFH's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Sounds great =) i do love BFH's. Any metal fastener that needs to be removed from my BK will receive a couple of taps from a BFH. My standing policy to maintain sanity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burock Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Just be careful that the BFH doesn't destroy the mounting points for the suspension by bending them at an angle. Although I agree a couple whacks with a BFH is gratifying, it often results in more damage than necessary. Beer usually works better for sanity than the BFK when you get into a bind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 haha, well i dont drink so BFH is a good alternative. I was thinking. what if i just cut the nut off instead of the head of the bolt? wont it have the same effect lol (it's less material to cut = less time). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 Well, ventured to do this after I came home from school and WIN WIN WIN. =D. Didnt even take off the mufflers because im that badass. Funny thing with me as always is that it took my 3 hours to take off the original rsb and endlinks (due to the endlink nut that took me 2 hours to cut with a dremel because the blades kept braking, only used 13 though....lol) i actually cut one endlink in half because I was so sick of the RSB being in there. I took the rsb off by taking the tire off and just pulling it through basically, was really easy once I found a route to put it through. here comes the funny part, laugh now...it took me exactly 10 minutes to install the new RSB and Endlinks lol. << Story of my life. The car feels absolutely AMAZING now, and I don't know why i didnt do this sooner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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