jamesm113 Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 have you tried an actual axle puller like this one: http://ramchargercentral.com/images/howto/mmc/26hubPullerInstalled3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 i borrowed an axle puller, like the in the link above, from autozone. and i stripped the threads on it, no joy. so i removed the whole knuckle (mark the position of the top strut/ knuckle bolt so you can reinstall it EXACTLY the way it was.) with the axle and took it to a shop. they had a much bigger , heavier , axle puller and it worked, $20. since then i have used an electric impact wrench on an autozone axle puller with success. but i don't know if it is the impact that is making it work or the axle is just less stuck. spray some penetrating oil in and let it sit. spray it every day. get a good puller. and before you re-install, use a small triangle file to chase the grooves in the hub. it will install easier. also coat all of the splines with anti-seize. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 yeap, yesterday I rented one exactly like that. I put so much pressure on it but nothing...I have no idea what to do next. Probably I'll keep hameering the shaft and put more PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 i borrowed an axle puller, like the in the link above, from autozone. and i stripped the threads on it, no joy. so i removed the whole knuckle (mark the position of the top strut/ knuckle bolt so you can reinstall it EXACTLY the way it was.) with the axle and took it to a shop. they had a much bigger , heavier , axle puller and it worked, $20. since then i have used an electric impact wrench on an autozone axle puller with success. but i don't know if it is the impact that is making it work or the axle is just less stuck. spray some penetrating oil in and let it sit. spray it every day. get a good puller. and before you re-install, use a small triangle file to chase the grooves in the hub. it will install easier. also coat all of the splines with anti-seize. good luck. I guess I have to do the same, I'm a really bad luck guy:spin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 The axle puller I had rented from o'reilly had a slide hammer, you might have some luck with one of those (I didn't end up needing it): http://www.pzhlz.net/photo/Auto-Maintenance/Hub-Slide-Hammer-Puller-48240.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Now...before to start removing the strut-knuckle bolts I read about marking the upper bolt position. I'm wondering if the picture "marking of the bolt" is the correct one. If that is the way how to mark the bolt position. Thank you.http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k124/gmariusica/strut-knucklealignment.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 most folks use a marking pen. i use a cold chisel and put a dimple in the outer most edge of the bolt head And the edge of the strut flange next to it. they are about 1/8 inch apart and it is easy to mark them both at that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 a cold chisel sounds good to me. the new problem right now is the steering tie-rod end which I have to open it to remove the knuckle. there is anything I should be aware of?? do I have to make a new alignment after I'll put the knuckle back to it place??? I'm asking because everything will come off the knuckle and I might have some troubles after I'll put everything back. hopefully not... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Today I tried to put another knuckle (the original one was damaged at the shop) from a Outback Legacy 2.5 (mine is simple Legacy 2.2) but the problem is at the lower suspension bar which came too low and I couldn't connect the sway bar busing to it. The question is: Is the knuckle completly bad for my car version?? or do I have to do some other replacements here there and then will be fain?? I was thinking that I might use short struts to make the lover arm to come up a little but...I don't know if is such a good idea. http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k124/gmariusica/suspensionassy.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 put it all back together except the sway bar end link. then lower the wheel to the ground. as you put weight on the wheel the end link will be easy to re-connect to the control arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 put it all back together except the sway bar end link. then lower the wheel to the ground. as you put weight on the wheel the end link will be easy to re-connect to the control arm. Or use a bottle jack to raise the hub. (the car is firmly on stands, right?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Thank you. I think I'll go with second version because the first one didn't work properly. I lowered the car with the tire on and I still had a small gap between the bar bushing and the lower arm. What about if I'll compres just the spring whit a spring compresor??? I don't have a bottle jack right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 both wheels on the ground, loosen the mounting brackets on the sway bar. don't remove the brackets. attache the end link and then tighten everything back up. or use the tire iron to pry the sway bar into position, insert the bolt and tighten. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmariusica Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 both wheels on the ground, loosen the mounting brackets on the sway bar. don't remove the brackets. attache the end link and then tighten everything back up. or use the tire iron to pry the sway bar into position, insert the bolt and tighten. I forgot to mention that I didn't put the shaft inside and I might change the strut also. The only problem which I had was that I didn't know if the knuckle will fit or no on my car. Now after your posts I think it will fit at the end. I'm thinking about a workflow to change the strut in the same time (the break fluid hose will be a pain in the back because goes through a clamp welded on the strut) so...still a long way to come until the whole project will be done. I don't want to mention that I have to start the whole project on the other side :spin: Thank you guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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