amorgan93 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 so which is correct? johneggs sequence or lojasmo? johnegg is saying start from outside and work towards the inner and lojasmo is saying teh exact opposite..?? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 so which is correct? johneggs sequence or lojasmo? johnegg is saying start from outside and work towards the inner and lojasmo is saying teh exact opposite..?? thanks Both. On removal, work from the inside. When installing, snug the outer bolts in a crosswise pattern, then torque the four inner bolts, crosswise, to 9 ft/lb, then torque the four outer bolts, crosswise, to 9 ft/lbs. If in doubt, do what john tells you. I am just going from the Hayne's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 haha thanks guys. on the rocker arm thing where the 2 bolts go on the outside cap things there is a 3rd bolt that sits in the middle of this piece? what does this bolt do? is it valve lash adjustment and as long as i dont mess with it, will i have to readjust valve lash? or whats the deal? i thought 96 and back didnt have valve lash adjustment but 97+ did because of solid lifters or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 haha thanks guys. on the rocker arm thing where the 2 bolts go on the outside cap things there is a 3rd bolt that sits in the middle of this piece? what does this bolt do? is it valve lash adjustment and as long as i dont mess with it, will i have to readjust valve lash? or whats the deal? i thought 96 and back didnt have valve lash adjustment but 97+ did because of solid lifters or something. Cannot tell. Edit: you NEED a Hayne's manual. I cannot believe you don't have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 what engine are you working on? i don't remember seeing a 3rd bolt in the center of the cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 on the 95 ej22 in the scrap yard there was a 3rd bolt in the center of the cap part of the rocker assembly on the outside, front of the engine. i think it was on both sides but i know for sure it was on the part near the front of the motor. you can see it in the picture on the right. they have evidently already removed one bolt from that side in that pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 yes the front cap on the driver side has 3 bolts, the rear cap on the passenger side only has 2 bolts. which shaft did you pull, driver or passenger? which shaft do you need, driver or passenger? driver and passenger are not the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 what engine are you working on? i don't remember seeing a 3rd bolt in the center of the cap. It seems to be axial, a bit above the horizontal midline (if I interpret morgan's description correctly. Can't figure out what it is. Too many ales. Image 9.9a on page 2A-13 of Haynes...I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 i needed passenger side cam. i got passenger side cam. i know they arent the same the motor is asymmetrical. the passenger side has that bolt in the middle on the front and back of the rocker assembly. all that bolt does is hold all the rocker arm on that metal rod on the front and back. if you loosen them all the arms will slide right off the metal rod that runs through the center. for future reference, do not loosen these bolts when removing rocker assembly to change camshaft. And thanks guys for your help it is really appreciated. The cam swap was the easiest thing ive ever done. Im OCD about that motor so i inspected any and every part of the rocker assembly, cam, rocker covers, and inside for any trace of dust and kept my hands clean. Ive never seen a cleaner motor at 165k. there wasnt a single speck of oil gunk or anything, inside the rocker cover was all shiney metal, no oil stain or build up. Impressive! also, going back to the seperator plate, permetex ultra grey must shrink when i cures because i had the bolts tight on the oil sep plate when i first installed it, and now, several days later, i came back to check the bolts and they werent tight, so i tightened them up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I think you are supposed to torque the bolts on the plate before the stuff dries? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 idk just grabbed the tube of ultra grey and on the back it says "hand tighten bolts until gasket maker cures. once it cures come back and tighten the bolts" not in those exact words but thats wat it says lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Should be okay, then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 my question is at 165k miles why is it absolutely spotless around the cam and rocker assembly. i mean no sludge nothing. every car ive ever messed with has been dirty inside the cover. i did all the seals except the oil pump o-ring and the front crank seal because im 99% sure its already been done before i got the motor. The front crank seal is that brownish color, and every other seal in this motor has been black. also there is no signs of any oil leakage whatsoever from the front crank seal or around the oil pump, in fact that whole area had dust on it. ill keep my seals and do that later if i have to. The oil pump looks like its been re-sealed because its got black silicone around it, looks like a good job but slightly more sloppy than i would expect Subaru to do it from the factory. Thanks a bunch for all the help, i cant wait to get the motor in the car!! gotta do those axle stub seals and should be ready to lock n load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 The heads could have been rebuild recently and the PO had them hot tanked. Before I install any parts I clean them as best I can just to keep the chance of dirt finding its way in slim to none. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuamSTI Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Can the oil separator plate leak be fixed without taking out the motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Ya if you take out the transmission. Its a pita no matter what -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuamSTI Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 What causes the oil separator plate to fail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 What causes the oil separator plate to fail? First version was made of plastic, second version aluminum, third version, steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 all true, although i've never seen an aluminum one. they must be on the 00 - 04 cars. the plastic ones would just leak, unseal over time or crack, starting at the screw holes. if they are not cracked you can just reseal / re-install them. it may not last forever, but in theory it will last as long as it did the first time. the replacement ''should'' last forever, hopefully. or at least longer then the original one. but until you have 500k miles on your car you won't know for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 The aluminum one is on the 00-04 as far as I know. My 01LGT had the aluminum one. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Well finished the motor swap. Rear crank seal not leaking oil sep plate not leaking. One dry subie. But that's the least of my worries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.