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Grinding, please help me


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OK, I have an 06 lgt w/ 66k. Under hard acceleration there is a grinding coming from trans area. Im a service writer but unfortunatlly i work for a chevrolet store. I just flushed the trans out and now Ive been told to probably lean towards the front diff. Im not looking for a thousand it might bes but would love if any one has and dianostic tips to help me track this down. Noise only happens when accelrating very hard and will not go away until I let off the throttle. Thank you!!
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check your dif oil located on the passenger side of engine towards back , looks like a trans dip stick but its ur dif. If level is good and fluid looks good its gotta be in trans, . Could be the cluctches in the trans they get stuck together and grind, taking a hard corner while accelerating will break them loose. sounds wacky cause its an automatic but auto trans have clutches to as u prob no! i work at a Subaru dealer and sometimes that happens. keep me updated il try and talk to people at work and get the prob solved
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Ill check the diff fluid in the morn. I flushed the trans as the clutches have been known to stick and cause this grinding. Was told the flush could take a few miles of drivin to work it out so ill see how it works, no difference as of now though. Thank u and ill be in touch
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yes it will break the clutches loose after a few sharp corners it doesnt work then the tranny will have to come apart but most of the time it works if it is the clutches sticking together. when i say hard cornering i mean like completley turn the wheel all the way to the right or left and accelerate in a circle. find an open parking lot
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I have that exact sound you described RiceViper. Mine must be the same problem.

 

Excuse my ignorance to this diagnosis, but this was a 5 minute fix or just took 5 minutes to figure this out? If it was 5 minutes to figure out, how much to fix?

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Took 5 mins to figure out, breaking the diff down today to figure out a total cost. Labor guide only calls for 2.8hrs to overhaul a rear diff, plus parts. Depending on ur labor rate anywhere from 350.00 to 180.00. Easy to find the prob out with a stethescope when the car is on a lift and wheels spinnin. Ill keep u posted. Thanks for all the help so far guys.

 

Anyone have a plug recomendation...i dont wanna change em all the time, just didnt know if there was somthing else out there then a stock plug. Im just runnin a tune and a k+n with the silencer removed.

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As for spark plugs - go for NGK, and if you have a mod+tune you may consider one step colder plugs.

 

ILFR6B or ILFR6T-11 are the recommended plugs from what I can determine at the NGK site. They are slightly different but both fits (same connector and threading) and will do it's job. However if you do more mods I think that the ILFR6B is the better alternative. And if the gap is wrong it's a simple thing to adjust.

 

ILFR6B (For the EJ257 found in the STi)

Extreme Long Life Laser Iridium Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 26.5mm (1.04") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Projected Tip, Solid Terminal Nut, Iridium Tipped Fine Wire Center Electrode with Platinum Tipped Tapered Cut Ground Electrode, .031" (0.8mm) Gap, Heat Range 6

 

ILFR6T-11 (For the EJ255 found in many others)

Extreme Long Life Laser Iridium Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 26.5mm (1.04") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Solid Terminal Nut, Iridium Tipped Fine Wire Center Electrode with Platinum Tipped Tapered Cut Ground Electrode, .043" (1.1mm) Gap, Heat Range 6

 

Beware if you get this one since the thread length is shorter than the thread in the cylinder head:

BKR5EIX-11 (For the 2.5i)

Iridium IX Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Solid Terminal Nut, ISO Length, Projected Tip, Fine Wire (0.6mm) Iridium Center Electrode, Tapered Cut Ground Electrode, .043" (1.1mm) Gap, Heat Range 5

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