Baddog Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I have 172k miles on my EJ22. Cylinder 1 - 165 Cylinder 2 - 150-155 Cylinder 3 - 90 Cylinder 4 - 150-155. After a few times of taking it out and putting it back in on Cylinder 3 it got to 150. Not sure whats going on Tested my friends 97 OBS he put 180 across all cylinders but even tonight heading to a meet I still pulled on him. Why is this? The engine runs strong. I don't feel like I am putting out low compression in any cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Leaking valve isn't necessarily showing any power loss, but it can also be that you couldn't get the instrument to seal properly on cyl 3 for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97400obw Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Did you do a leak down test? Was the engine warm? Did you pull the fuse for your fuel pump? Hold the throttle wide open during test? Also how many cranks to get to the highest readings? Do a dry and a wet test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Did you do a leak down test? No (seems to take quite a bit of time to do this) Was the engine warm? Yes Did you pull the fuse for your fuel pump? No Hold the throttle wide open during test? No Also how many cranks to get to the highest readings? 4-5 Do a dry and a wet test? Not sure how to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97400obw Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 A "wet test" will tell you if it's rings, or valves. First warm the engine. Pull the fuel relay. Pull the plug going to the coil pack to disable it. Open the throttle Do your normal compression test and note readings. Then add a little oil to the low cyl. as you do the test again. If the reading goes up its rings they stay the same it's valves or possibly HG A leak down will tell you if it's intake or exhaust or rings by where you hear the sound coming from. Tailpipe- exhaust valve Throttle body- intake valve Thru the dipstick hole- rings. Bubbles in the radiator(may or may not)-HG Both are kind of simplified versions you may want to do a search for better info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 A "wet test" will tell you if it's rings, or valves. First warm the engine. Pull the fuel relay. Pull the plug going to the coil pack to disable it. Open the throttle Do your normal compression test and note readings. Then add a little oil to the low cyl. as you do the test again. If the reading goes up its rings they stay the same it's valves or possibly HG A leak down will tell you if it's intake or exhaust or rings by where you hear the sound coming from. Tailpipe- exhaust valve Throttle body- intake valve Thru the dipstick hole- rings. Bubbles in the radiator(may or may not)-HG Both are kind of simplified versions you may want to do a search for better info So drop a little bit of oil (how much) through the spark plug hole in the low cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97400obw Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I use maybe a teaspoon, probably a little less and yes the low cyl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Seems to me a leakdown test takes quite some time to do not something I really have.; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97400obw Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Seems to me a leakdown test takes quite some time to do not something I really have.; Not that much longer than a compression test but you do have to have the leak down tester. It's probably not necessary, just another diagnostic tool that will give you a better overall picture of the condition of your engine and say if it's a valve lets you know which one to look at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 And if it is a valve what is my next step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Not that much longer than a compression test but you do have to have the leak down tester. It's probably not necessary, just another diagnostic tool that will give you a better overall picture of the condition of your engine and say if it's a valve lets you know which one to look at. I will see if I can rent a leak down tester. Or if I have to buy one. One of the directions I looked at I think it said I had to turn the crank by hand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Also if it's too much to fix and get repaired I may be looking at some Local EJ25's to do a 2.5 swap. Pull the 2.2 out and clean it up and possibly screw around with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Well I can't seem to get much info on all of this or even how to replace it. The cost to rebuild the engine seems to be a little high. Don't have much time or room. So she may be up for sale here soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I doubt it is hurting anything. you probably have a valve seat or ring going bad. Then again it could be headgaskets. A compression test doesnt really pinpoint a problem, just lets you know there is one. If the car is fine and doesnt show any signs of a problem then keep driving it. If you need to rebuilt it, you can cut some corners. If pistons are fine, then do the rings and have the block honed if needed. Have the head rebuild, should be $200-300 per head. If you want to do this, I know someone that runs a machine shop and I would be willing to lend a hand. To tell you the truth though, at 170k ish miles just keep running it. Doesnt sound like it has any problems so why fix it. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97400obw Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hey Baddog, the wet test didn't raise the compression on the low cly? Seems funny you can't hear anything or notice any power loss. Usually if it's a valve it's going to be the exhaust try holding your hand or a dollar bill loosely over the end of your muffler and see if it sucks your hand or the bill back to it as the motor is running or if it just keeps blowing your hand away. Usually a burnt valve will suck your hand back, on this motor every 4th stroke. If it is a valve you can always have the heads done. It could possibly be a head gasket too. I wouldn't give up on it yet and sell you'll wish you hadn't, I like buying cars like yours, putting a little money in it and selling. I bought my 97 OB for $400 and spent $460 putting it back on the road. I've always wanted one so it's not for sale but I am looking for another. One of the easiest cars I've ever pulled the engine on. Hopefully someone else might chime in here with a few more ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hey Baddog, the wet test didn't raise the compression on the low cly? Seems funny you can't hear anything or notice any power loss. Usually if it's a valve it's going to be the exhaust try holding your hand or a dollar bill loosely over the end of your muffler and see if it sucks your hand or the bill back to it as the motor is running or if it just keeps blowing your hand away. Usually a burnt valve will suck your hand back, on this motor every 4th stroke. If it is a valve you can always have the heads done. It could possibly be a head gasket too. I wouldn't give up on it yet and sell you'll wish you hadn't, I like buying cars like yours, putting a little money in it and selling. I bought my 97 OB for $400 and spent $460 putting it back on the road. I've always wanted one so it's not for sale but I am looking for another. One of the easiest cars I've ever pulled the engine on. Hopefully someone else might chime in here with a few more ideas. Didn't change it. I was told to try to run seafoam through the oil to see if a valve is sticking. So you say to put a bill loosely over the muffler and see if at ANY time it trys to suck it back in? The only time I hear anything is when the engine de-revs under 1100 rpm's sounds like a metal noise but doesn't increase with revs or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97400obw Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hey just reread your 1st post I missed the part where it said "After a few times of taking it out and putting it back in on Cylinder 3 it got to 150After a few times of taking it out and putting it back in on Cylinder 3 it got to 150'" You may not be getting the gauge to seal for some reason on that cyl. I 'd just drive it like subikid90 said and just see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97400obw Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I just stick my fingers (closed and flat) loosely over the end of the muffler and if it's a burnt valve it will want to suck your fingers to the muffler and you can hear a kind of popping sound. Hard to explain but it should never suck your fingers back to the muffler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 I doubt it is hurting anything. you probably have a valve seat or ring going bad. Then again it could be headgaskets. A compression test doesnt really pinpoint a problem, just lets you know there is one. If the car is fine and doesnt show any signs of a problem then keep driving it. If you need to rebuilt it, you can cut some corners. If pistons are fine, then do the rings and have the block honed if needed. Have the head rebuild, should be $200-300 per head. If you want to do this, I know someone that runs a machine shop and I would be willing to lend a hand. To tell you the truth though, at 170k ish miles just keep running it. Doesnt sound like it has any problems so why fix it. Well let me know how much it would be to have each head rebuilt. I was hoping to have a cam grind done but don't want to put it in an unhealthy engine. Ya know? And what is involved in a head rebuild? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 I just stick my fingers (closed and flat) loosely over the end of the muffler and if it's a burnt valve it will want to suck your fingers to the muffler and you can hear a kind of popping sound. Hard to explain but it should never suck your fingers back to the muffler Never get a pop when I am driving. If I put it into 2nd when I am driving I will get a popping noise. But I think that is normal as my friends OBS does it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Ill call him and see what he would want to do the head rebuild. Most of the time you surface the heads, grind the valve seats and clean them. Replace the valves/springs if they need to be. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Ill call him and see what he would want to do the head rebuild. Most of the time you surface the heads, grind the valve seats and clean them. Replace the valves/springs if they need to be. That will be awesome. Just to see what my options are and cost of things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbrisky Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Do a vacuum test, that will give you a lot of info too. Go to link below, it gives 15 scenarios of good and bad readings. I have an EJ22 with 309000 and the compression readings are 120, 135, 145, 150 and it runs like a champ with perfect vacuum gauge reading and no check engine light. RUN IT! http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbrisky Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I do have to run FULL or SEMI synthetic oil because the valve guides are worn and they stick with conventional oil. If I stop running Synthetic, I get a check engine or even a flashing check engine light within a few hundred miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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