Lookatmyrust Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Hello, i have been looking to get my legacy a quick lift for cheap. problem being that thick 1 inch plastic cost a pretty penny. and people always are trying to sell me the best plastic in the word. like 400 bucks a foot.... reason i wanna use plastic is because then its easier to cut and shape... and metal is not. and cost more. so im thinking.. hey,,,what about that fake plastic ice they use in skating rinks... but its not very cheap and it not a product thats sold in small amounts . so then i was thinking. what about Plexi glass? weak? not weak? idk.... and still a lot a money if you wanna buy it thick... then i thought... holy hell, ill buy some large cutting boards eh? 1 sec later found some 18" by 24" by 1/2 think for 15 bucks.... i would pick a High Density Polyethylene cutting board of course HDPE has little branching, giving it stronger intermolecular forces and tensile strength than lower-density polyethylene. The difference in strength exceeds the difference in density, giving HDPE a higher specific strength.[2] It is also harder and more opaque and can withstand somewhat higher temperatures (120 °C/ 248 °F for short periods, 110 °C /230 °F continuously). High-density polyethylene, unlike polypropylene, cannot withstand normally-required autoclaving conditions. The lack of branching is ensured by an appropriate choice of catalyst so Sm going with these.... unless some think they will not be able to take the weight and shock? subltle solutions spacers look to be plastic. anyone confirm this. ill order them tonight(if no one has a point) and with in a week i hope i could have them on the car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 http://www.professionalplastics.com/cgi-bin/pp.pl?pgm=co_disp&func=displ&prrfnbr=85376&child=93454&calc=Sheets&dimension=24%20X%2048&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&cvsfa=1544&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=53484450452e3036322d3234583438 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subydrift Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 HDPE is what paranoid fabrications uses for his saggy butt shims. It is plenty strong for this application. I found a local plastic distributor here in Salt Lake and got 3 pieces of 12" x 13" X 1" HDPE for strut spacers for like $53. Here is another online company that sells the HDPE for fairly cheap. www.indplastic.com And here is the company I got mine from. www.lairdplastics.com A piece 12" x 13" is plenty for a full set of strut spacers. You just need to lay them out properly first. HDPE cuts like butter with a jigsaw too so any DIY'er can cut them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 I sourced a bunch of it off Amazon for the same application, pretty cheap to buy. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_seeall_1?rh=k:HDPE+Sheets,i:industrial&keywords=HDPE+Sheets&ie=UTF8&qid=1292820264]Amazon[/ame] There was a learning curve for cutting it tho. I found working with the 1" was very difficult - it melts back together when jigsawing & likes to break router bits. Much easier to work with 1/2" & stack them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Something else I noticed that might help, on the '05 OB I could just cut the spacers as circles rather than triangles, they still fit fine in the wheel well (test by rotating the tophat with the studs removed). And with a circle jig on a router they were much easier to cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 sweet!!!! i ordered a quarter inch sheet that measures 13 buy 84... 7 by 7 for the front and 6 by 6 for the rear.(thats enough right?) and 6 spacers each for each strut... i wanted 1/4 for 2 reasons... easier cutting and i can "tune" the height more.. plus 1/4 is the cheapest to get to an inch.. and half inch spacers and 12 total cost more then 24 1/4... the inch thick stuff even more.. and less adjustment. i spent 64 bucks with shipping, which was 27 bucks,, almost half the total.. o well. it is 84 inches long... hahaha... i even tried to order 2 13x42 and it cost more cause of the one more cut. shipping didnt change... shipping was based purely on weight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 a little late but try this: http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_89_90&products_id=107 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 i know about that. look at the price. ill be getting a 1/4 1/2 3/4 1 1 1/4 1 1/2 lift(what ever i choose) for under 100 bucks... i still gotta buy studs.. plastic was 65 bucks. got 35 for hardware... much better deal... and ill be running on cutting boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 How much you got allotted for an alignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 i get them for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=981089#post981089 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frkkevin Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 metal is easy to cut.. especially if you buy my plasma cutter 512whp/465ftlb 2005 5EAT Legacy (Build Log) Videos - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 27, 2010 Author Share Posted December 27, 2010 found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=981089#post981089 retarded.. the inch thick stuff cost so much more.. im getting an inch and a half for less then just buying inch thick stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 27, 2010 Author Share Posted December 27, 2010 i got a problem.. when i take the top hat bolts off and the sways the rear shocks dont drop down at all. whats holding them up? the fronts drop to the floor. i also now know that i cant get the new bolts in without taking the top hats off. how do i do this and do i have to take the whole shock off the car? and if i have to take the whole shock off.. i cant. the bottom two bolts are way to tight.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 27, 2010 Author Share Posted December 27, 2010 YESSS. i love my new breaker bar!!!! i feel like the hulk now best 17.09 bucks i ever spent. breaker bars are a must with rusty cars.. not doubt about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 ok.. i got the studs into one rear and one front... now im just waiting for the plastic and gotta do the other side.. i need a small welder too.. i wonder how many car batteries i need and what type of sticks for the proper bead. i really do believe in over my head... id much rather take apart the engine... less rust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRegvall Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Hello, i have been looking to get my legacy a quick lift for cheap. problem being that thick 1 inch plastic cost a pretty penny. and people always are trying to sell me the best plastic in the word. like 400 bucks a foot.... reason i wanna use plastic is because then its easier to cut and shape... and metal is not. and cost more. so im thinking.. hey,,,what about that fake plastic ice they use in skating rinks... but its not very cheap and it not a product thats sold in small amounts . so then i was thinking. what about Plexi glass? weak? not weak? idk.... and still a lot a money if you wanna buy it thick... then i thought... holy hell, ill buy some large cutting boards eh? 1 sec later found some 18" by 24" by 1/2 think for 15 bucks.... i would pick a High Density Polyethylene cutting board of course HDPE has little branching, giving it stronger intermolecular forces and tensile strength than lower-density polyethylene. The difference in strength exceeds the difference in density, giving HDPE a higher specific strength.[2] It is also harder and more opaque and can withstand somewhat higher temperatures (120 °C/ 248 °F for short periods, 110 °C /230 °F continuously). High-density polyethylene, unlike polypropylene, cannot withstand normally-required autoclaving conditions. The lack of branching is ensured by an appropriate choice of catalyst so Sm going with these.... unless some think they will not be able to take the weight and shock? subltle solutions spacers look to be plastic. anyone confirm this. ill order them tonight(if no one has a point) and with in a week i hope i could have them on the car... How can you tell the difference between HDPE and LDPE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 i dont... know... i would have to have them both in front of me... but HD is high density and the Ld is low density status of my car: rear gutted- im putting a nice new laying of thinner and lighter undercoat in the trunk and rear seat and deck.. and the roof of the car.. gets to cold in this car... need better insulation.. and the front now officially one and a half inches high of the ground!! looks sweet.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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